is that 1/8" npt fitting male or female threads ? also i'm having a "duh" moment right about now. i don't recall it coming out of park or into neutral or anything. what exactly is a park prawl, i can't find it anywhere in the '94 dealer servc. manual

 

not sure on the re but my rh wouldn't move when i bought it. i adjusted the bands and put 35,000 miles on it with only a tps adjust. i don't know it that has them or not.

 

tps means throttle position sensor? would all the gear positions not engage w/out proper band adjustment? there should only be two bands to adj. and i wonder if they can be/were adjusted sometime during the rebuild. or does the tranny need to be installed to adj. the bands?

 

Many names for that part. It is the park gear catch on the drum to lock the output of the transmission.
If it doesn't come out of park chances it may be a shifter problem.

 

Park pawl - a rod that engages large teeth on the output drum to lock the output shaft when PARK is selected - anyway, you should feel the shift detent ratcheting when you shift thru P-R-N-OD-3-2-1

 

ok i found the park pawl in the manual, so if it is installed correctly i should feel the shift detents clearly, in every gear, and if not, it will just slide or not shift at all, or what?

 

you can tell if the pump is working by checking the reading on the dip stick. the fluid level will be much higher than the full line cause there is no circulating fluid in the trans. check level before and after engine running. if the level doesnt go down after started then you have no pump/hydraulic pressure. i also assume its not a 4x4, t-case could be in neutral too.

 

it is a 4x4, does dipstick check still apply?

 

yeah, tps is the throttle position. it only affected my searching for lockup tho. i don't know if i had any forward gears tho. i only put it in drive and hit the throttle and nothing. put it in reverse and it wanted to try to grab when i got on it so i shut er down. i bought it like it was for sorta cheap cause i figured if it needed a trans i would put one in. i just pulled the pan off to check the fluid and it was good and not many shavings on the bottom of the pan. i did some research and adjusted the bands and i was good from then on. i have an rh trans tho so it might be a little different. i read somewhere on here i thought that the re's have a check valve or something that lets the torque converter drain out and you need to let it run a while before they move. how long are you running this while checking the gears?

 

The shift detents are inside the transmission, so if the linkage is copasetic, the detents can be felt in the shift lever - however, no amount of detents will do any good if the xfer case is in N, as suggested - the truck will not move in any gear range

Also, as suggested, check the fluid level at engine off, engine running in PARK or NEUTRAL, then in DRIVE with the emer brakes locked - if the oil pump is functional, you will see three different fluid levels, highest when engine is off, lowest with engine running, trans in DRIVE - this test doesn't matter which range is selected in the xfer case

Place the trans in PARK, xfer case in 2H, release the emer brakes, see if the truck moves when pushed - if it doesn't move, this verifies the drivetrain from the differential thru the xfer case to the park pawl

 

i let her run awhile after i tried shifting and tried again after she warmed up, still no dice. i'm not sure if i checked the transfer case pos. though. that should have been obvious but maybe i overlooked it. i now have several items to check.
1)shift linkage
2)o-ring(which o-ring?)
3)broken filter neck(would prevent pump from drawing/circulating fluid through valvebody ?)
4)fluid level check
5)check for broken stator ears (no clue as to where or what)
6)TC bolts to flex plate
7)transfer case pos.
8)band adj.
9)trans. oil pump
10)input shaft
11)output shaft

anything else? anybody? thanx again to everyone

 

The filter neck\tube seals into the transmission inlet bore with an o-ring - if it's old'n'hard or cracked, or missing, pump cannot draw ATF outta the pan

Same for the filter tube - if broke or cracked, or fell outta the inlet bore, as can happen if filter bolts fell out, or 2wd filter in 4wd pan, or aftermarket deep pan, etc, no pumped ATF

The torque convertor drives the oil pump - the gear has two tabs that fit into two notches in the tc drive collar - if broken, no pumped ATF

The stator multiplies input torque at low turbine rpm, freewheels as turbine rpm matches impeller rpm - if the stator sprag clutch is broke, the stator always freewheels, resulting in no or very sluggish vehicle movement until engine rpms are way higher than normal

 

so a 4wd filter has more depth than a 2wd filter and the 2wd filter won't draw fluid in a 4wd application ?

 

Correct - also, if a deep pan was installed and trans was filled to oem atf spec, fluid level in pan will be too low to reach filter

First check the transmission relay and fuse in the fuse\relay center - then the xfer case range selector - then shift quadrant linkage between steering column and trans selector lever, then check that the selector lever is fully on the selector shaft and the clamp-bolt is tight

'Nuther words, do all the external checks first, then move to the checks inside the transmission pan - could even be the valve-body was not tightened and is hanging loose - the vb is very intricate, being in three sections, could be the shift-kit was installed wrong or the vb was not reassembled correctly

My bro bought an AMC 4wd Eagle that wouldn't move under power - all seemed normal when engine was off, including mechanical driveline, diff to xfer case to trans - turned out the pinion gear shaft had sheared - couldn't hand push the wagon in PARK, but engine power wouldn't move the wagon - go figger..............

 

okay i have 4 or 5 external checks to make before i have to get my hands dirty on the other stuff, thanx for the pointers. now i may be getting ahead of myself but i have a couple of other questions; it's my understanding that the tranny's ( mines a 47re auto) on these dodge diesels are very weak and prone to major breakdowns. i plan to keep this rig awhile (bio-fuels in the future) and my first priority will be to strengthen/improve the stock tranny. i don't think i can afford a fancy goerend or the like (4 or 5 grand i've heard) but am wondering if these are some bolt-on improvements i can make without going broke and will actually strengthen my tranny/weaklink. (possible to switch to a nv5600 manual if the 47re is shot?)
1)transgo shift-kit to raise line pressure
2)torque conv. (possibly by goerend)
3)valve body (possibly by goerend)
4)gauges; which and why(trans temp, pyro? EGT?,boost? whadda fuh,huh,duh)
5)higher capacity trans oil pan (already have)