7707

I just ordered gauges for my '95 auto.

When I had my '04 I ran the temp sender in one of the ports on the back of the trans but apparently that's a no-no.

I have searched on here and read a lot about putting in a T in the hot line next to the side of the engine. I've also read about a cooler line you can buy that has a port built in...and I like this idea better. BUT the only place i found it was at diesel manor and it was listed as a 3rd gen part and was $145!

I also read that NAPA can cross reference the chryler p/n for a factory line that has the port in it...but I've tried to do so on line with no luck...maybe I need to go to the actual store? I liked the NAPA part that I read about because it was only $43 +-.

ANyway...I am guessing the line with the built in port is the best way...? If so where to get it without spending more than the gauge ...yeah I know I shouldn't complain as it can/will help me to not overheat my trans...but money isn't falling out of the sky yet so if I can get one for less money and still be decent then why not?

infidel

I prefer the line with port, less potential leak places than installing a tee.
Napa for sure can get the line in the mid $40s.
Just keep after them.

Axtell3

http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...295_0325116037

This one fits the 47 re

infidel

Nice but that's the one without the sensor port.

7707

Yeah I will get off my lazy butt tomorrow and get off the computer and go see them. I just couldn't seem to cross reference it on line. I agree...I know the t would work but with my luck it would leak.

Axtell3

That one does have the pickup. It's for a tranny without a sensor port.

7707

I found a thread where someone with a 1st gen put a T in the stock temp port...I just looked and my '95 has the same thing.

Can I (obviously I CAN) put a T there and plug in the stock sender and the actual gauge sender instead of replacing the whole line?

infidel

How come it says w/o Sensor Port when describing the line, not the application?
Picture doesn't show the port either.

Lil Dog

When you pull the factory temp sensor in the line, you can jumper the plug with a resistor and just thread your gauge in the port. Now I can't remember if its a 1000 Ohm resistor or less. Have to research that. But 94-95 were the only years with that port in the line IIRC.

kd460

Try this part number:
Dorman 624-352

I got a good price for one (new) on fleabay

CarlJensen

Use a 1000 ohm resistor in the stock temp sender line (seal it up well). This tells the computer that the fluid is warmed up so it will shift right. Then the gauge sender can go right in that existing port. This is how I have mine set up. I put the gauge in a donut right on the front of the airbag computer box.

7707

So just put a 1000 ohm resistor in the 'plug' for the stock trans temp sender...jumpered side to side. Remove the stock sender and then put in the actual gauge sender...this sounds the easiest and least likely to leak. I'm guessing just tie the stock sender wire/plug up out of the way?

I got a T to put in the stock port on the stock line to be able to plug in the stock sender and the gauge sender...but that's still leak potential.

I got boost, egt, and the trans gauges (will eventually get fuel pressure). I also got my KDP kit today to get that done (and hopefully stop the oil leaking) within the next week or so.

What is the best place to wire these up? When I had my '04 I was able to pigtail them all together and then run it to the dimmer switch. Will that work on the '95?

Also...I ordered a 3K GSK but TST said they would rather not sell it to me as the truck would not run right without having an aftermarket fuel plate...and then they said it would only work with specific ones...???

Thanks everyone!!

7707

Got everything done yesterday. All the gauges seem to work as they should.

I ended up trying the 1000 ohm resistor jumpered int he stock trans temp plug and so far everything works as it should. COnvertor locks in D and OD where it should.

I do have a T to put in the stock port should the resistor end up giving me an issue so either way it should be good.

Now to get the KDP done and adjust the valves and she's good to go.

infidel

Won't work to put the stock and aftermarket sender in the same tee.
Made that mistake once.
Senders need to be directly in the fluid flow or else it takes forever for the temp to climb enough to allow lockup.
Aftermarket sender will read low.
Doesn't really matter though, as long as the resistor is spliced in good it will last as long as the truck.