and im hitting the PRINT button...got DIESEL you answered my dilemna thanx buddy

 

ps got...DIESEL hows the ATS setup working for ya id like the converter this summer...but umm they're a lil far away from me i really like a triple lock type design...are they the only ones doing that sorta converter?

 

You actually want a 3 position switch, ON-OFF-ON.
Then it functions as you describe.

 

FWIW, Dunrite started the multiple disc revolution.
ATS, Dunrite, Goerend, & Suncoast all offer mutiple disc converters.

 

Mr T........

I like the triplelok but I wish the stall was alot lower. I'm not sure if 3 clutches are really necessary, being that the TC clutch isn't the weakest in the trans anyway, it just has more duty cycling than the rest of the clutches. A good single disk made of adequate material and being driven by enough pressure would do just fine. To get around the higher stall I find myself driving locked from 1st on up, but under heavy power this can be aweful hard things......there are differing opinions on this subject, but ATS sais the buffering ability of a fluid coupling is replaced by dampening springs in the TC when it's locked. It still feels pretty harsh to me, and the converter lock-up alone is harder than any of the rest of the gears.....though I have the pulse modulation bypassed in the controller. As long as they stand behind it, and have said "OK" to lock to lock shifting without warranty issues then fine. To date the only thing they say they will not cover is broken inputs.

I think they should lower the stall on the converter to make it really supurb. With stock power, the stall wouldn't be so bad, but as we all know, loads and/or high power can raise the stall......I'm mild by high power standards but can redline the stall pretty easy way past the 1800 rpm power range, and I don't like that.

And your welcome for the switch ideas, glad to help, and fueling around is right....3 position sw, I typoed. two on positions and one off position.

I fiddle around electrically quite often......built a cheap shut down timer but don't want to step on any vendor toes so I didn't talk about it. I also rigged a fast idle solenoid via another timer that is compatible with a remote auto start. It keeps the fast idle off for 10 seconds after start-up so oil can come up (which is alarm monitored), charging can begin, and engine can stabilize, then it pulls in a fast idle. In this system I have also wired a relay into the block heater circuit that disables the power supply to the heater when the engine is operational. What does this all do?? Keeps me from treading outside, unplugging the heater, firing the truck, setting the throttle stick, blah blah blah. Now I push the little button from inside the house....truck starts, heaters come offline, after oil pressure is built, power is sent to the timer, fast idle solenoid energizes 10 sec later, and truck runs for up to 20 minutes at 1100 rpm. If at any time oil pressure drops below 15 psi, the whole system shuts down via a 15 lb NC hobbs switch.

Cute huh???

Chris

 

wow thats nice..alot of cool lil tricks...there's a poor guy on here who had his truck stolen a week ago i think i dunno where i read it...i really need a kill switch or whatever they're called any good easy to follow instructions around?

Andrew

 

no prob...give me a while to draw one up...I'll post it in my album

 

Iv got a 97 auto with a mild built trans
does the tq lockup switch stop the trans from downshifting or does it try to down shift when locked up?

Are you guys putting in a jumper in like TST says to or not?
What happens if you dont put a jumper in and try to lock it up?

 

it will not downshift with the switch engaged, it will stall the truck out before it downshifts

you have to put the jumper in or absolutely noting will happen, it will shift like normal..

as far as lights, my switch is lighted.. i have it wired through a relay, its confusing to explain but i can probably draw a picture if anyone needs to know..

 

What about my 47RH, since its mechanical will it still downhift locked like my old duramax did?

 

thanks kujo. I found a really easy way to put in a light, the switch i found at lordco, has 4 pins on the back, 2 for what ever you're turning on and off, then a positive and a negative pin for the light in the switch. But for the life of me i cant remember the brand at the moment

 

i read up on how to install the switch, what years u had to get reflashed. i have a 95 Dodge 12v mfc. 2/95. i installed the switch and it doesnt work. i read on here that the hot wire for the (led) light will feed back thro, cuzing ity not to work. was happy to hear that thinking that was the problem, but still doesnt work after i unhooked it! when i'm driving and in 2nd the light is on. (still unhooked) and stays on til the truck reaches the speed that the torque locks up (47 mph) then the light will go out! so i'm thinking that i can cut the pin 54 wire and run the one end to the pos of the switch and the other end to the neg. cuz it seems like when the torque is locked up the wire is dead and when it has power its unlocked. can i do this? the diagram i read said not to cut. THANKS