tips for doing clutch in 4x4 dualie?
#1
tips for doing clutch in 4x4 dualie?
My 13 -1.25 should be here today....I plan on taking care of it this weekend. I ve done plenty of 4 speeds in muscle cars, but never a transfer case? I have a 10000 lb two post lift....not sure if I m comfortable using it, but I might just grin and bear it. The truck weights only 7200...
Do I pull the transfer case first then the trans? Or does, will it be just as easy in one unit? Do I need to drain it all before pulling or will it be ok (not leak) if I leave the fluid in. (It was changed not long ago)
I also have a rear pinion small drip leak, any recommendation there? Just a seal? Or do a sleeve? It has 180k on it.
Do I pull the transfer case first then the trans? Or does, will it be just as easy in one unit? Do I need to drain it all before pulling or will it be ok (not leak) if I leave the fluid in. (It was changed not long ago)
I also have a rear pinion small drip leak, any recommendation there? Just a seal? Or do a sleeve? It has 180k on it.
#2
Pull the transfer case and transmission as a unit uing a transmission jack. Do not try to horse this transmission around by hand on a floor jack, like we could do with the old 4 speeds. Remove the cross member once you support the transmission and transfer case, that gives you lots of room to move back to replace the clutch. Be sure to support the engine with a block and jack under the back of the pan so it stays centered and level as you pull the transmission.
It is a snap with the right tools.
You do not need to drain the oil from either unit, just keep them level with the transmission jack.
The Dana does not use a crush sleeve, so you simply pull the pinion yoke for the rear universal joint, replace the seal, and retorque the nut after reinstalling the yoke. These pinions are installed as a pre-measured unit with shims for proper preload. Keep an eye on the outer bearing shims, so you do not have one stick to the yoke and get lost in the process.
If you have a grooved yoke from seal scrubbing, the groove has to be quite deep to ruin the yoke. A new seal will generally solve all the problems unless you have 500,000 miles or more on the old yoke.
It is a snap with the right tools.
You do not need to drain the oil from either unit, just keep them level with the transmission jack.
The Dana does not use a crush sleeve, so you simply pull the pinion yoke for the rear universal joint, replace the seal, and retorque the nut after reinstalling the yoke. These pinions are installed as a pre-measured unit with shims for proper preload. Keep an eye on the outer bearing shims, so you do not have one stick to the yoke and get lost in the process.
If you have a grooved yoke from seal scrubbing, the groove has to be quite deep to ruin the yoke. A new seal will generally solve all the problems unless you have 500,000 miles or more on the old yoke.
#3
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i pulled my tranny and t case together, with just a floor jack and a friend, took 2 hours to pull it and 2 to put it back. i did use some 1/2 bolts about 6" long that i cut the heads off for alingnment pins on the lower 2 bolts from the tranny to the bell housing. put it up there, and put it on the pins and slid it home.it took 2 hrs to put it back together. not a bad job at all. but a tranny jack would be nicer. mike
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