user name

I guess I'll start with I have a feeling the previous tried to do some mods or even may have and then tried to set it back to stock. The truck is also at 287,000 without any known to me pump replacements.

The truck won't cold start without throttle. It coughs at with any attempt to rev the engine and puffs white smoke while coughing. It was around 10 today and it started but in that cold it wouldn't rev beyond 1200RPM at 60-70 you can get 2000RPM and when fully warmed up it will rev out but doesn't really have any power.

I have replaced the fuel filter and when I did that I filled the filter with ATF. After doing this it did run better but it's still acting like this. I'm pretty sure it's a fueling issue and wouldn't really jump to the timing issue if I hadn't gotten the it's already been messed with feeling. I'm thinking I need to get a fuel pressure gauge on between filter and injection pump but what else can I check going in the cheap and easy stuff first. Also pictures would help as I'm not familiar with with whats what on the P-pump yet.

Tate

Fuel pressure would be the first thing I check. If that checks out, I would start looking at fouled injectors. Timing is possible, but unless you have a kit or a light, or a friend who does, you'll be paying someone to do that.

Get some fuel pressure readings to see if your lift pump and overflow valve are still in good condition.

torquefan

Good advice. I'd do the same.

user name

Checked fuel pressure after the filter today I was 20 PSI at idle with occasional drop outs to the 10 PSI range. From reading a few other threads it looks like fuel pressure is supposed to come up to the 40 PSI range at 2k, mine doesn't it sits right at 20 with more frequent fluctuations down to the 10 psi range. Now how do I figure out if it's a lift pump, overflow valve of maybe even a heater filter. My first guess would be lift pump because of the mileage and prefilter would probably be a good idea too so do I just do it all and hope for the best?

GAmes

OMG, why in the world would you do that?

Too late now anyway.
You have an air leak more than likely. Have you ever replaced any of the rubber fuel hoses? It could also be the cheesy fuel heater that is above the prefilter and is easily removed.

infidel

Your fuel pressure definitely isn't up to snuff.
With the engine idling pinch the return hose that passes behind the fuel filter with pliers.
Your FP should shoot up to at least 60 psi. If it doesn't lift pump is bad.
If it does hit 60 you need an overflow valve.
Best overflow valve price by far is $39 on ebay.

Think if you flip down your visor and read the starting instructions you'll find it says to give it a little throttle in cold weather.

user name

Whats wrong with ATF? it's just a high detergent 20 weight oil. I was told to do that by an old mechanic thats run at least 350,000 miles on an original VP44 pump he also adds ATF in the tank all the time.

Anyway the previous owner did some fuel line repair under the truck and that would probably be a good place to start. Is there a good way to find air leaks in the fuel lines(like maybe fuel leaking back out when not running)?

user name

thanks I was afraid to pinch a return line. As for the starting yep the say quarter throttle under 60. The p pumps don't start nearly as well as the VE and that's not based off my 94 I know it's not right but it does start down at 0 found that out this morning.

GAmes

[QUOTE=user name;2698968]Whats wrong with ATF? it's just a high detergent 20 weight oil. I was told to do that by an old mechanic thats run at least 350,000 miles on an original VP44 pump he also adds ATF in the tank all the time.
QUOTE]


Somehow I knew an old mechanic was in the story. Years and years ago when ATF wasn't the mixture of additives it is now it was widely rumored that ATF in the fuel would clean the injectors. I think the rumor was started by a bunch of old mechanics who needed more work. ATF is the opposite of 20 wt oil, if ATF was that slick how would an automatic transmission work? While the internet myths of ULSD lubricity bounce around the forums you add something to the fuel that decreases lubricity. I don't add anything to my fuel, but if I did it would be something that was designed to be added to diesel fuel, and would say so on the container.

I wouldn't be surprised if you are having injector problems. If that is the case think that old mechanic will buy you new injectors?

TOMTOM

I think your on the right track. ATF won't hurt anything. Check those repairs then open the bleeder (10mm bolt) and see if anything comes out or check fuel pressure with a gage.
Never heard of an injector going out on a 12v

Please note: My .02
TOMMY

infidel

The old mechanic was right, 40 years ago.
Modern ATF is up to 60% additives many of which don't burn and leave highly abrasive ash deposits in your engine.
You could probably achieve the same results by filling the clean side of your fuel filter with fine sand blasting media.

user name

As far as the ATF goes I'm not worried about it I had never really thought of the addatives not burning so I probably won't use it anymore but in unburned form it still lubricates pretty well or all the bearings/bushings and seals inside the trans would burn up so I'm not to worried about hurting a pump with it especially not this one since I have put all of 5 miles on the truck since I got it. I can't see it even comparing to sand blasting sand I know way to many people who have been running it for way to long with if anything less issues than those who don't.

Now for the testing popped the fuel pressure gauge back on and clamped off the return line got an instant and steady 55PSI. So I ordered the overflow valve today and put the truck back outside because I don't feel like unhillbillying it any more right now.

I picked it up to drive for the winter and keep my other trucks out of the salt maybe I'll have it up to my standards to drive by spring. Really stating to think the price wasn't right on this one.

user name

I got the valve and changed it today. The truck is running much better and idling a little higher. It's still not 100% right has a bit of a stumble doesn't seem to rev out under load(maybe the low stall) but is much better from a stop. I plan adjust the valves since who knows when that was done last and it's running well enough that I'm not afraid to drive it anymore so after I deal with some chassis and electrical concerns I'll run a little fuel through it and hope for the best.

daveybones

i couldnt find an overflow valve on ebay. Help? Also im interested in adjusting my fuel plate for more power ?? Can and how is it adjusted ?