lifer

For the heater grid solenoids you can replace them with meyer snow plow solenoids. They are $15 each and most auto stores in snow country carry them in stock. I just put 2 of them in my 97 and they work perfectly.

dieselman2300

Its only $50 for the OEM part from rockauto.com.
You dont need to spend any extra time fabbing up a new bracket, or redoing any of the smaller wiring.

With the stock part it takes less than 30 min. to put the new one in.

Anyways when you find out the relays arent working is when its freezing out. I try not to do any fab work when its this cold out. JMO.

Tony

Dartmouth 12V

Another option for the relays is to get some 100A relays from allied electronics for about $15 each. I was able to reuse the old bracket by simply removing the relay then bending the mounting bracket of the new relay around the old bracket. I lost the link to the ones that I have when my computer died but it shouldn't be hard to find at all.

Jreif80

a couple years ago when I still had my 98 12 valve I was in south dakota and spent the night where I couldn't plug my truck in it was -20 and the wind shill made it feel like I was in siberia lol anyways cycled twice and gave it no throttle and it started up in about 5-7 seconds I was pretty impressed (before I started it I was pretty worried) but I've always used non-synthetic oil. I have nothing against synthetic oil but you know how it is once you start buying somthing for years you don't seem to change it's more of a habit I buy rotella

smokeyram

Last night i plugged mine in at about 6. I had let it sit all weekend. about 9 i went out , cycled the heaters, cranked, wouldnt fire. jsut the reason i was firing it up the night before i had to go to work. anyways, 3rd try and it fired.
i really dont think it would have caught if not for plugging it in.

2500

always try plugging in my 97 12v, but during deer season it's not possible. cycle heater twice, press throttle 1/8 way down. usually starts first crank down to zero.

caught several posts from out canadian brethren on how they do it.
take a tiger torch http://shopsourceone.stores.yahoo.net/tigertorch.html
and a 6 foot chimney stove pipe with elbow. point elbow up, directly under oil pan

downlow

Well this may sound stupid but you were giving it to much throttle. My 96 does not like 1/4 throttle at temp that low, it will stumble, **** and moan but back it off with just very little pedal and it fires right up. Too much pedal is why it smoked so back the fuel wasnt burning. Next keep backing out of it and you will see what Im talking about. It was around 6-8f last night and I had no issues.

Ru rammin 2?

I've started my 94 at -20F with dino oil and no plugged in. It took some cranking and some babying to keep it running but it started.

lifer

30 seconds with a side cutter and they are ready to install, no wiring mods needed . Pluse you don't have to order them. They are in stock at most auto stores. From the time I found out what was wrong it was 2 hrs later and I had her ready to go.

2500

thanks... I'll have to remember this, if/when mine goes out.

dieselman2300

I just had Napa cross reference the number. They had it at the local warehouse. I got the relays in about an hour.
Your telling me they just bolt right up?
I have always read that you need to make a custom bracket to get them to mount.
Your also saying you dont need to put any ring crimps on for the smaller wires?
I know for sure that it takes longer than replacing the OEM part.

BTW, I looked into doing it this way when one of my relays went out. I stopped at the local snow plow retailer, looked at the relays and just said forget it, I'll get the stock ones.

ScottN

I've started my '97 not plugged in after is sat at a high temperature of -34F / -37C for 8 hours. (windchill like... -60F...)

It only happened once and I'd never want to do it again, but it worked...

lifer

That is what I am saying. The part number is SNO5794k . I got mine at a bumper to pumper auto parts store. I had to trim one bracket on one solenoid so that it would not interfear with the other solenoid. I used the holes in the fenderwell from the original solenoids along with the original screws. I had to install them in a V pattern to use the existing 3 holes. the two solenoid brackets just overlap each other so that you have one screw hold the two brackets in the center. All the wires went right on with no mods at all. The only difference is that the terminals face to the center of the truck instead of straight up like the original solenoids.

dieselman2300

Different strokes for different folks.
I guess

Dartmouth 12V

I agree that it is a pain to have to modify relays to make it work. These relays will drop right in and the wiring does not change. The only thing you need to do is bend the bracket around the bracket where your old relays were mounted. I replaced them in about 15 minutes.

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...9532002CB2E17F