smokes when cold
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smokes when cold
Hey Everyone,
When I start my truck up in the morning blue smoke just poors out of the exhaust. After it warms up like 20 mins later the blue smoke subsides some but still is there. It looks like a blue smoke bomb went off. Help buckskin
When I start my truck up in the morning blue smoke just poors out of the exhaust. After it warms up like 20 mins later the blue smoke subsides some but still is there. It looks like a blue smoke bomb went off. Help buckskin
#2
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Timing
It sounds like to me that your timing is retarded. Mine did the same thing and when i checked my timing mine had slipped almost to 8 degrees. Stock timing, depending on your year of 12v should be from 12.5 to around 13.5 degrees. I found my truck likes the timing around 16.5. Make sure if you do the timing yourself, that you clean everything thoroughly after you set the timing. I thought i would skip that step and i ended up having to redo the timing 2 weeks later. I wanted to save 20 minutes and ended up wasting 3 hours. This is your motivated diesel wardog signing off, OORAH!!!!
#3
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Originally Posted by buckskin4570
Hey Everyone,
When I start my truck up in the morning blue smoke just poors out of the exhaust. After it warms up like 20 mins later the blue smoke subsides some but still is there. It looks like a blue smoke bomb went off. Help buckskin
When I start my truck up in the morning blue smoke just poors out of the exhaust. After it warms up like 20 mins later the blue smoke subsides some but still is there. It looks like a blue smoke bomb went off. Help buckskin
what truck u got? and define cold in ur area?...if its a 12 valve id say ur timing need to be set
#4
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Buckskin,
I just went through the EXACT same thing.
Became quite embarrasing when sitting at a stop light or leaving the house in the morning.
I first thought it was my timing, but after calling around - the consensus was to check the injectors.
***EDIT***
The injector diagnosis was based upon the fact that highway cruising power didn't seem to have changed - if timing had slipped, power at speed should have suffered noticeably.
I decided to pull them in order to take them to a local shop to be 'pop' tested.
When I pulled them out, they looked like complete @$#* - I was actually relieved to see them look that bad. Felt like I at least found the problem.
I almost put them back in right away after cleaning them up, but decided to go ahead and have them pop tested anyway - it was only $9.00 ea to test.
They all tested fine, except one was slightly low - tweaked at no charge.
Put them back in and everything is fine again.
I was actually amazed at how well the truck ran with the tips of the injectors caked up the way they were.
Read up on pulling them - it's cake.
The hardest part is removing all the paint on the injector lines and polishing everything w/ steel wool because there is some 'little voice' in your head telling you to do this.
I just went through the EXACT same thing.
Became quite embarrasing when sitting at a stop light or leaving the house in the morning.
I first thought it was my timing, but after calling around - the consensus was to check the injectors.
***EDIT***
The injector diagnosis was based upon the fact that highway cruising power didn't seem to have changed - if timing had slipped, power at speed should have suffered noticeably.
I decided to pull them in order to take them to a local shop to be 'pop' tested.
When I pulled them out, they looked like complete @$#* - I was actually relieved to see them look that bad. Felt like I at least found the problem.
I almost put them back in right away after cleaning them up, but decided to go ahead and have them pop tested anyway - it was only $9.00 ea to test.
They all tested fine, except one was slightly low - tweaked at no charge.
Put them back in and everything is fine again.
I was actually amazed at how well the truck ran with the tips of the injectors caked up the way they were.
Read up on pulling them - it's cake.
The hardest part is removing all the paint on the injector lines and polishing everything w/ steel wool because there is some 'little voice' in your head telling you to do this.
#6
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Bill,
I've never run injector cleaner through the tank - maybe I should.
I had been burning quite a bit of bio-diesel, mainly during the summer months and up to a 80% blend of bio along w/ up to 5% mix of used filtered motor oil.
Might have been a cumulation of all of the above along w/ the mileage.
I'm back to about a B75-80 mix in the tank again.
I'll say this - I do like how much better the truck runs and smells on the bio.
I've been under the impression that as a result of running the bio that injector cleaner would not be necessary because of the solvent effect of bio-diesel.
I've never run injector cleaner through the tank - maybe I should.
I had been burning quite a bit of bio-diesel, mainly during the summer months and up to a 80% blend of bio along w/ up to 5% mix of used filtered motor oil.
Might have been a cumulation of all of the above along w/ the mileage.
I'm back to about a B75-80 mix in the tank again.
I'll say this - I do like how much better the truck runs and smells on the bio.
I've been under the impression that as a result of running the bio that injector cleaner would not be necessary because of the solvent effect of bio-diesel.
#7
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Originally Posted by buckskin4570
Hey Everyone,
When I start my truck up in the morning blue smoke just poors out of the exhaust. After it warms up like 20 mins later the blue smoke subsides some but still is there. It looks like a blue smoke bomb went off. Help buckskin
When I start my truck up in the morning blue smoke just poors out of the exhaust. After it warms up like 20 mins later the blue smoke subsides some but still is there. It looks like a blue smoke bomb went off. Help buckskin
and from what i've experienced, advanced timing makes blue smoke, and hard to start when cold
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#8
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CZsteve,
You are right that bio-diesel does clean up injectors and fuel tanks and many other things. does it take very long to change injectors? What do they cost for the stock ones? Are they very hard to change? Thanks
Wheelo
You are right that bio-diesel does clean up injectors and fuel tanks and many other things. does it take very long to change injectors? What do they cost for the stock ones? Are they very hard to change? Thanks
Wheelo
#9
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wheelo,
You can pull the injectors, clean them up, and re-install in a couple hours.
I took longer - had my dad's car to use and decided to go ahead and have them pop tested, could have skipped that step.
I chipped of the carbon and used steel wool to clean them up. After talking w/ the guy that pop tested them he said the steel wol was not a good idea as it is so fine (0000) that I could have gotten a sliver stuck in an orifice - luckily I didn't.
I used the lug nut w/ a spacer trick to pull the injectors.
Picked up a 3/4" conduit coupler and cut it down a hair - 1 5/8" if I remeber correctly.
After taking the injector and return lines off and removing the hold down nut, just slipped the conduit over the injector and attached the lug nut to the top of the injector and used a rachet to pull them out. A couple large flat washers were helpful when the lug nut began to bottom out on the threads.
I went ahead and replaced the crush washers for the injectors and return line and put in new 'square cut' o-rings that fit between the hold down nut and injector.
That and along with new valve cover gaskets and I now have a clean / dry engine - at least the top of the motor is.
You can pull the injectors, clean them up, and re-install in a couple hours.
I took longer - had my dad's car to use and decided to go ahead and have them pop tested, could have skipped that step.
I chipped of the carbon and used steel wool to clean them up. After talking w/ the guy that pop tested them he said the steel wol was not a good idea as it is so fine (0000) that I could have gotten a sliver stuck in an orifice - luckily I didn't.
I used the lug nut w/ a spacer trick to pull the injectors.
Picked up a 3/4" conduit coupler and cut it down a hair - 1 5/8" if I remeber correctly.
After taking the injector and return lines off and removing the hold down nut, just slipped the conduit over the injector and attached the lug nut to the top of the injector and used a rachet to pull them out. A couple large flat washers were helpful when the lug nut began to bottom out on the threads.
I went ahead and replaced the crush washers for the injectors and return line and put in new 'square cut' o-rings that fit between the hold down nut and injector.
That and along with new valve cover gaskets and I now have a clean / dry engine - at least the top of the motor is.
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