'96 2500 auto.
Here in Ontario Canada it's been 5-15°f in the morning.
I mix conditioner/antigel with my fuel.
In the morning my engine cranks for 20 seconds before it fires.
When it does get started I must increase the rpm to 1200 for 10 seconds or it will stall.

Question:
Why does it have to crank so long, has the fuel drained back to tank?

It does not do this in the warm weather.
Winter has just begun, when it's colder I intend to plug it in.

 

A good way to start

how is the idle on your truck? it should be at 750 or so in gear and with AC or heater on. If not, that might be a good indicator for your hard starting troubles. You could also be getting air, replace your rubber return lines, or your timing may have slipped. Do you see any odd colored smoke? or just white smoke when u start...

Tx

 

Does it always start on the first try? I had a '97 with a hard start problem and it was the grid heater relays. Next time take a look at the amp gauge. If it isn't going down when the wait to start is on then that is where I would start. Otherwise I would look into what TXDiesel007 suggested.

 

The smoke is the usual white.
It starts every time, just takes alot of cranking.
The idle is dead on after it's warm.
If there's air in the lines, why does this have no effect in the summer/fall?
If the timing has slipped would this not affect the engine after it's warmed up?

Thanks for the help,
Kevin

 

What about an earlyer ? do you see the Alt. gauge go up & down indicating that the grid heater is working ? Are you pluging it in 3hrs.min.? Idle ? step on throdle just a little , does that help ? if its one of the last 2 then do a search for fuel shutoff adjustment .

 

Sorry to hijack the thread, but i have a similar problem.. When cold, unplug, the truck crank for a few sec and start ok, but i have to keep my foot on the throttle if not, the truck stall.. but once warmed, the idle is dead on.. I got white/blueish smoke for a few minutes and the heater grip is working according to the alt gauge..

Hope to see what you guys have to say..

Cheers,
Marc/

 

Both of you could have overflow valva issues. That does make them start somewhat harder. Try looking here for some help: Overflow Valve Troubleshooting Help
Tom

 

If you fuel lines and overflow valve are in good shape, then check the following:

Turn your key on, tap the starter and leave the key in the run position, then go check your fuel shut off solenoid. Make sure it is still held in the open position, up, while the key is on. Then shut off the key and try and raise the solenoid by hand and see that it is free and not sticking internally.

If the solenoid is not holding up properly, or is slow to raise. Check the fuel shutoff solenoid itself for a dirty and sticky slug in the center that pulls the lift rod. They are easy to pull apart and clean.

What I suspect has happened is the cold weather is creating a larger than normal power draw in the starter and your contacts are likely starting to carbon. That reduces the power available to the shutoff solenoid and will make it more sensitive to dirt or bad starter solenoid contacts. That can make it slow to lift. You can take the starter solenoid apart and file the contacts, or go to Foster's and get a set of their vastly improved and one tenth the cost of OEM contacts and rebuild your starter solenoid.

 

Thanks to all for the advise.

RCW,
Could you give me an idea of where the fuel solenoid is located?
Kevin

 

It is impossible for the starter contacts to provide low voltage to the shutdown solenoid as they only trigger the solenoid relay on the firewall to close. If your engine cranks at all the relay will close. Power to the relay then on to the solenoid is provided by the blue fusible link wire from your driver's side battery. Low voltage and no solenoid lift is usually caused by a corroded blue wire at the battery or a bad relay on the firewall.



Good place to buy relay
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

 

Hey I notice in that btm pic Infidel the Dipstick is OVER the intake horn. Mines always been under since I had it.....

 

Thanks for the tip.. Im gonna take a look at this OF valve..

Cheers,
Marc/

 

That picture is from a '97.
The dipstick on my '95s goes under also, my engines aren't that dirty either.

 

Thanks for the pictures of the fuel shut off solenoid/relay.
I'm trying to understand the entire fuel path, please correct me on the following.

fuel in tank is drawn through the filter/preheater to the lift pump.
The lift pump provides to the injection pump and some fuel is used in the engine.
The overflow valve allows excess fuel flow to go to the fuel shut off soleniod.
When ignition is on the shut off solenoid will be open, allowing the fuel to return to tank.

Please let me know if any part(s) are wrong.
Nice to know exactly how it's supposted to work when repairing.
Thanks- Kevin

 

Fuel in tank is drawn through the filter/preheater to the lift pump.
The lift pump flows though the filter to the injection pump and some fuel is used in the engine.
The overflow valve allows excess fuel flow to go back to the tank.
When ignition is on the shut off solenoid will be open, allowing the fuel to return to tank. The solenoid will shut off incoming fuel to the injection pump, the return fuel flow path back to the tank is always open.