Sick Of It! Its still burning up. HELP PLEASE!
01-12-2009, 04:03 PM
#16
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I was told my egt problem was from wrong spray pattern from the injectors. I still tryin to pin point my problem of that i thought i may throw out there. My 97 came with bigger unknown injectors and my egts climb faster than my boost.If i'm on the throttle and shift into 4th my egts are 13-1400 post turbo.
01-12-2009, 04:14 PM
#17
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I am trying to get more air. more air= lower temps. both egts and engine temp. Just trying to get a response on others turbo setups and how they perform.
01-12-2009, 04:42 PM
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01-12-2009, 04:48 PM
#19
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Is your fuel plate all the way forward? If it is back it down a little, defuel that thing a bit. See if a shop could check the timing if you don't have a light. If you are going to upgrade the turbo, change out the stock exhaust manifold, if does not flow very good and is prone to breaking. That will help lower you EGTs.
01-12-2009, 04:59 PM
#20
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Sounds like I will be spending some cash...
I have a light but I thought the timing was all about the fuel pump... I will look into this when I get to the house tonight.
I was looking at worst case scenario getting an HBT2 with a 64... Am I not seeing a lower priced turbo solution that won't cost me atleast two truck payments?
I have a light but I thought the timing was all about the fuel pump... I will look into this when I get to the house tonight.
I was looking at worst case scenario getting an HBT2 with a 64... Am I not seeing a lower priced turbo solution that won't cost me atleast two truck payments?
01-12-2009, 06:51 PM
#21
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If you can find a shop that has a diesel timing light it will be cheap and easy to check your timing but if it needs to be changed it will still the same involved process described here> http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
01-12-2009, 11:02 PM
#23
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The timing may have slipped. As you can see its not as simple as getting out the SnapOn timing light either.. 
Another issue to chase is boost leaks. Make sure all clamps are tight and the intake manifold bolts are all snug.
Oh and 1400°F into 4th is normal for me too, and I have a larger charger! Heat is my enemy too, especially towing.
Another issue to chase is boost leaks. Make sure all clamps are tight and the intake manifold bolts are all snug.
Oh and 1400°F into 4th is normal for me too, and I have a larger charger! Heat is my enemy too, especially towing.
01-13-2009, 10:52 AM
#24
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Is your fuel plate all the way forward? If it is back it down a little, defuel that thing a bit. See if a shop could check the timing if you don't have a light. If you are going to upgrade the turbo, change out the stock exhaust manifold, if does not flow very good and is prone to breaking. That will help lower you EGTs.
Move your pyrometer and start there. If the EGT's are above 1250* sustained, move the plate towards the radiator say .100" and try again.
When you get the EGT's safe, then you can try towing your load around and see if the coolant temps stay safe.
If coolant is safe, you have resolved your problem. If you want the power back, you will have to add more air to your additional fuel.
Don't look too hard into problems. I usually create my own and then cannot see them for looking at exotic problems.
You know, like, putting fuel in the truck when it starts running rough and silly stuff like that!
You don't have to buy a turbo to fuel the world if you can live with less fueling.
01-13-2009, 10:58 AM
#25
Chapter President
Move your pyrometer and start there. If the EGT's are above 1250* sustained, move the plate towards the radiator say .100" and try again.
When you get the EGT's safe, then you can try towing your load around and see if the coolant temps stay safe.
If coolant is safe, you have resolved your problem. If you want the power back, you will have to add more air to your additional fuel.
Don't look too hard into problems. I usually create my own and then cannot see them for looking at exotic problems.
You know, like, putting fuel in the truck when it starts running rough and silly stuff like that!
You don't have to buy a turbo to fuel the world if you can live with less fueling.
When you get the EGT's safe, then you can try towing your load around and see if the coolant temps stay safe.
If coolant is safe, you have resolved your problem. If you want the power back, you will have to add more air to your additional fuel.
Don't look too hard into problems. I usually create my own and then cannot see them for looking at exotic problems.
You know, like, putting fuel in the truck when it starts running rough and silly stuff like that!
You don't have to buy a turbo to fuel the world if you can live with less fueling.
You would want to move the plate away from the rad. But all good advise.
01-13-2009, 12:34 PM
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Don't know where the plate is moved at right now, is the #8 a decent plate to roll with? Recommendations? I don't really want to de-fuel it. But if it cools me down for now that is the most important thing.
I am willing to spend a little cash on a turbo, but I want to get one that will drop my temps. Once and for all. I don't want to by half the turbo that I actually need, and still be in the same melt-down boat by trying to save some bucks. Basically, I am saying I want to do it right, one time, without losing the fuel, but by gaining the correct airflow.
I am willing to spend a little cash on a turbo, but I want to get one that will drop my temps. Once and for all. I don't want to by half the turbo that I actually need, and still be in the same melt-down boat by trying to save some bucks. Basically, I am saying I want to do it right, one time, without losing the fuel, but by gaining the correct airflow.
01-13-2009, 12:47 PM
#28
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Once you get a bigger turbo, then you might blow a headgasket sooner. Towing doesn't make it easier for the engine either. I say defuel a little bit. At least to see if that's even your problem.
01-13-2009, 01:16 PM
#29
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Right, I have had that problem floating around in my head too. de-fueling sounds like the right thing to do right now. From what I understand, more airflow is the key. More important than higher pressure anyways. I am pulling about 34 pounds at max boost psig. So if I have the wastegate on a better/bigger turbo set from around 35-37 psi I should be okay in the head gasket dept...Right? Would I still get the benefit of better flow?
I pressurized the intercooler with a plasma cut plate and a tire chuck hooked to a pressure guage that I rigged up. No boots were leaking (I sprayed connections with soapy water), but the pressure slowly dropped. (Into the cylinders)
I pressurized the intercooler with a plasma cut plate and a tire chuck hooked to a pressure guage that I rigged up. No boots were leaking (I sprayed connections with soapy water), but the pressure slowly dropped. (Into the cylinders)
01-13-2009, 02:32 PM
#30
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Leak test sounds OK to me! The boost is good. I run about 42 psi consistently but never get over 38 psi towing due to EGT and engine heat. Too small of turbo exhaust side.