Hey guys only maybe a week from trying this think at the local track. Question is i read a lot of you run no plate on the street, i quess this is something i can try if i need more, just wondering what it does besides increase rack travel. I bought a 2095 rack plug and planned to install it when i did the timing, well did the timing yeterday and forgot to do it. Next q's does the plug really only help get more travel when used without a plate, or does it gain travel and fuel regardless of plate design or even if its installed? Just want to have all my tuning options fiqured out soon. To start i have my 100ish plate in the middle so i can creep up on the power little by little. Since i didnt install a innercooler im curious to see if i have a huge cooling issue. I just ran a 3" stainless pipe over into a 3/8 plate i cut out for the intake. I have a fogger nozzle in the intake i plan to use just enough nitrous to keep temps. in check, i used a fogger nozzle so if i need to use 2 kits its there and available. Any tuning tips for a p-pump racing beginner??????? Thanks guys

 

Im not very familiar with nos, but i think that is is going to hurt the egts. as far as not having an intercooler i bet it is going to hurt also. forgot where i read it, not sure if its fact either, but a non intercooled powerstroke can only make arround 400 hp, before an intercooler needs to be put in. with 435's and full cuts i think your gonna be dumping too much fuel to start a fire. you might want to leave that plate where its at try not to dump so much fuel until you get some pressure built up. sound like a pretty cool project though. keep us informed on how the run goes.

 

I notice theres a lot of simular parts in our tune-ups, i just went with the larger 66 version of the turbo, and basicly the 435's are DDP stage 5's from what ive read. Hows your run, where do you run your boost at, Dave said mine would be set at 45 psi from his bench and said to play with it from there to around 70. Im really wondering myself about the innercooler thing, but ive noticed none of the faster cummins powered drag projects run them either. Im sure its due to the fact that they to run nitrous and maybe also water to chemiclly cool the charge air. Wonder where i can get a simple psi. accuated switch to control maybe some water and nos systems? Prob. just the water because ill prob. need it every run and hopfully just use the nos when i want and not HAVE to to keep it cool, and ill just run it on a momentary switch like my drag car. But i think the water would be nice on a pressure switch for sure. Any other suggestions as far as engine tune??

 

i have my snow water meth set to come on at 25 psi. as far as the 62 htt i run about 55# with the water meth off. i think you should have a snow stage 2 or 3 water meth injection. and from what i hear the full cut dvs are a little much, i think mine are partial cuts from shieds. run it how it is and see how it goes. overall i think that its gonna move alot of fuel. was that a 215 pump you started with?

 

First of all if you have a 887, or 913 ( read 215hp) pump you DO NOT want to install the 2095 rack plug. It is detrimental to performance in the 215hp pumps. The 2095 rack plug only helps after the afc foot is modified. (again you do not want to do the rack plug if you have a 215hp pump!) You will be much better off modifying the afc foot and keeping a fuel plate in the pump. a well tuned pumped will outperform one without a plate.

 

I think your right on the lots of fuel. NO it was from a 97 auto so its the 911 pump [180hp], i did think it was a 215 when i bought it though. Do you think its a big downfall in power over the 215? I dont think i missed any components when i ordered pump parts. The only thing is ive yet to install the rack plug and ive heard that it really shines in the 180 pumps? So you said yours comes on at 25 psi, hows the switch adjustable and i wonder if it can be bought seperatly to actavate other systems as well? I will look into the kit you mentined.

 

180hp pump will love the 2095. I dont think you will have any problems having enough fuel to get that thing hot with your 180 pump. I would still advise leaving you 100 in there, just mash it clear forward and make sure the gov. is hitting the plate.

 

Thanks for the advise, ya i made the plate installed it and check for what you said and found the arm missed the plate and went under it with the plate full forward. I adj the arm up to just touch the bottom and then slide it back about half way to start there. I goofed when grinding it and to clean up the uneven cut with a file it ended up being somewhat deeper than a zero from the 100 lip on up. I didnt fiqure it was a huge deal though once ive read on here that so many run with out a plate at all?? Wich was the original question what is really gained when totally removing the plate? Can't the arm only go so far anyway, i suppose this is where the rack plug comes in huh?? Do i have it about fiqured out

 

You pretty much have it down

 

When you said moddify the afc foot, what exactly are you changing? I pulled it again to day to re study the inside workings of the pump. I did decide to put the plate back in the middle for now to start with if i dont have a huge cooling issue i will ease it forward, i did slide the afc full forward as the piers spring kit called to do this after installing the light springs. I noticed the foot is tapered if this was ground 90* or str8 down would this help? Is this close to what you were talking about, if not would you explain, thanks Ryan

 

Yes, you can also flip the washers on the rod to increase travel, I completly removed my afc foot.......you just dont mash on the throttle before boost builds, i think removing it would be a good setup for what your going to use it for.
But yes i think you are going to have plenty of fuel to be warm.