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Rubber Fitting for Boost Leake Tester?

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Old 06-17-2007, 09:28 AM
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Rubber Fitting for Boost Leake Tester?

I'm having a hard time finding a fitting that will fit on the turbo inlet to make it work. I've tried one for a 4" PCV pipe but that was too big since PCV is measured as 4" I.D., I tried a 3" coupler but that was too small, there was no way I was going to be able to stretch it over the inlet. I've got the radiator out of the truck so I figured now would be a perfect time to check for leaks but after two trips to the hardware store and one to Home Depot I still can't get this nailed down. Anybody have any suggestions or maybe I'm missing something here?

Thanks.

John
Old 06-17-2007, 10:21 AM
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I used a 4" x 2" rubber reducer you find at the home stores. Its a little big but with the clamps it works.
I want to say they are called fernco couplings. They are used to fix cracked pipes.
Old 06-17-2007, 11:09 AM
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My first attempt at it was with a 4" one but it was so loose on the turbo that I figured it would never seal. I ended up getting a 4" to 3" reducer and fitting that on the air filter end of the intake hose, then I hooked my previous set up to that adapter. We'll see how it works in a little while.

John
Old 06-17-2007, 12:17 PM
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John, beware if your plan is to pressurize the hose from the airbox to turbo.
It's not meant for pressure and will blow up. Hopefully you'll see expanding like crazy before you let up on the air.

My tester's rubber is 4"id x 4"od from Home Depot, works perfect.
Old 06-17-2007, 12:47 PM
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Bill,

That was my plan and since I regulate the pressure down to about 15psi out of the compressor it worked fine. Now I've got the intercooler out since I found one small hole in it and there appears to be a couple of other leaks from where the IC fins/tubes go into the end tank on the passenger's side. I'm done with the truck for today, hopefully tomorrow I can get a fresh look at it and figure out what to do in order to fix it. I really can't spend a few hundred dollars on another IC.

John
Old 06-17-2007, 03:52 PM
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If you can get to them, clean them very good, scuff them and then JB weld them. Use the slow setting stuff not the 5min. stuff.
Believe it or not, the old intercooler I had, held 45-48 pounds of boost for quite a while.
Old 06-17-2007, 06:36 PM
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That's kind of my plan of attack. First I'm going to pressure test the IC out of the truck and nail down all of the leaks. Then as long as I can get to all of them with JB Weld I'll do that. If not I may just remove one or two rows from the core and have them welded shut.

John

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Old 06-17-2007, 09:47 PM
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I had to remove the very bottom core. My brother and I did it before we had to pull his car down to Kentucky. We took out the core, and JBwelded her shut!! Held for along time, I just replaced the intercooler last week.
Old 06-17-2007, 10:25 PM
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Good luck John hope it works out for ya.
Jim
Old 06-17-2007, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by tony597fitter
I used a 4" x 2" rubber reducer you find at the home stores. Its a little big but with the clamps it works.
I want to say they are called fernco couplings. They are used to fix cracked pipes.
That's what I used- a 4"x2" Fernco adapter. Got a big hose clamp to suck it down onto the turbo inlet and it works great. Picture in my gallery if you're interested.
Old 06-18-2007, 08:11 AM
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Thanks for the input. I'm going to go over it today with some soapy water and the IC out of the truck. I suspect that its leaking where a couple of rows of the core attach to the end tank so I might just cut out those one or two rows. Then I'll most likely run over to the machine shop where my buddy works and have him TIG the holes shut rather than JB Weld them. I'm amazed at the fact that the core corroded straight through in a couple of places already.

John
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