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Replacing Fuel Filter

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Old 06-23-2005 | 11:29 PM
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Tim9712v's Avatar
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From: Wilmington NC
Replacing Fuel Filter

I got my truck about 10-15k miles ago and decided its probably time to change the fuel filter...
I did a search looking for any help/how-to on changing it and didn't find much. Does anyone have anytips or advice? It seems as if it should be a simple job. Let me know, Tim
Old 06-24-2005 | 07:08 AM
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From: Kansas City
Tim - It's only easy if you have small arms. Oh, and a contortionist. Not really, it's not all that bad. You just need to find a comfortable position to get your hand back to the filter to get it unscrewed. (It's on the firewall right in front of the steering wheel, at least on the 95 it is.) Once it is off, fill the new one with fuel and reverse the procedure trying not to spill fuel all over everything. If you have a bleeder screw on the filter housing you could install the filter dry and then crack the bleeder screw and use the primer button to fill the filter and then tighten the bleeder screw. Good luck.
Old 06-24-2005 | 07:52 AM
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From: Fort Worth Texas
A short stick on the primer button will save your thumb. Or, you can pressurize the tank (regulate it to about 10 PSI first) by using a shop rag and air hose at the tank filler tube to force the fuel into the filter.

John (DH)
Old 06-24-2005 | 09:55 AM
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out_drsman, the '95 and '97 have a different type of filter.
The '94 though '96 is actually very easy to get at once you know the trick. Remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster. It doesn't look like it but the whole thing swings easily towards the driver's side giving you a ton of room.
Sorry on the '97 & '98, you're stuck with the tight space due to hydro boost brakes but it's nowhere as bad as the earlier models if you don't move the master cylinder.

I no longer use the primer button to fill and bleed the filter. Just open the bleed screw on top of the filter and pressurize the fuel tank with a compressed air blow gun wrapped in a rag. Fills and bleeds the filter in about 15 seconds.
Old 06-25-2005 | 07:41 AM
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From: Kansas City
Originally posted by infidel
...The '94 though '96 is actually very easy to get at once you know the trick. Remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster. It doesn't look like it but the whole thing swings easily towards the driver's side giving you a ton of room.
Thanks Bill. Now I know the trick and it will be much easier the next time. I can always count on learning something new here on the forum.
Old 06-25-2005 | 11:45 PM
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From: Northern Iowa
Or you could install the filter kit I found on the truck my friends purchased today. I had never seen this type of thing, and other than the fact it buries the injection pump, it looks like it would work well. At least in encourges you to change that filter...

Old 06-26-2005 | 06:58 AM
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Originally posted by 96_12V
other than the fact it buries the injection pump
I know several people who have removed their Prime-Loc filter relocators for this very reason. Once you know the move the master cylinder trick the Prime-Loc doesn't do much except get in the way.
Old 07-05-2005 | 10:59 PM
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From: Pueblo West
My 97 only has RWAL brakes. I bent the brakelines a little so I can get the filter housing out between the boost air pipe and brakelines. I also replaced the 3/8 nut, on top of the filter with a 3/8 allthread connector so it sticks up high enough to get a wrench on it much easier. You need to clean the fuel strainer too. You can reach it from above also - use a 17mm boxend to unscrew the strainer cup. Craig
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