Rear end binding in turns
#1
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Rear end binding in turns
Ive got a LSD in the rear on this truck. When Im at full turn I get binding as if Im in 4wd and trying to turn on pavement, only not as severe. It feels like maybe the clutch packs arent slipping as much as theyre supposed to. Any ideas? Ive thought about swapping the oil in the diff with synthetic and adding that friction additive to see if that helps. Hopefully I dont open it up and find the spider gears are trashed or anything awful like that. Ive got some howl that sounds like its coming from the back too.. but Im going to hold off on the rebuild for now.
I got a real good deal on a case of 80W synthetic oil made for 2stroke motorcycle gearboxes, which Im hoping is ok for this application with the addition of the friction modifier. Usually when I get synthetic gear oil its near 10$ a quart, I got 12 quarts for 10$.
I got a real good deal on a case of 80W synthetic oil made for 2stroke motorcycle gearboxes, which Im hoping is ok for this application with the addition of the friction modifier. Usually when I get synthetic gear oil its near 10$ a quart, I got 12 quarts for 10$.
#2
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Location: Pennslyvania , Lower Bucks County
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Binding is not good... I had a few friends that switched to amsoil and right after they reported they also had binding ... You need to do figure 8's in a parking lot to work in the friction modifer .
I would pop the cover and take a look for my piece of mind ...I hate to be like the body chaser ...but if you need one I have a rear thats a posi out of a 1996 4x4 4.10 and it only has 100,000 on it ...$400 .00, I'm not that far from you for a good rear .
Greg
I would pop the cover and take a look for my piece of mind ...I hate to be like the body chaser ...but if you need one I have a rear thats a posi out of a 1996 4x4 4.10 and it only has 100,000 on it ...$400 .00, I'm not that far from you for a good rear .
Greg
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If it started out of the blue ... usually you get that right after a fluid change ... if yours just started I would dump the fluid and do a visual inspection .
If the old fluid looks ok and you don't find any chunks of anything refill with fluid and 4 ounc of additive and go from there .
I use Amsoil and that is a full syn , it's all ready in the fluid .
Good luck
Greg
If the old fluid looks ok and you don't find any chunks of anything refill with fluid and 4 ounc of additive and go from there .
I use Amsoil and that is a full syn , it's all ready in the fluid .
Good luck
Greg
#5
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Theres a lot of metal in the oil and on the magnet. Something was getting pounded on in there and its not the ring gear as far as I can see.
I cleaned it out and replaced the oil, so far the binding is gone.
I cleaned it out and replaced the oil, so far the binding is gone.
#6
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usually the pinion bearings are pretty weak part of the rear ... most of the time lack of maintanence...I if you need one and can't find one locally , I'm right by Trenton , NJ
Greg
Greg
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I would pull your brake drums and check the rear wheel bearings. If one is bad it will make the groweling noise you mentioned and also could be the source of the metal you found in the case. I switched to a synthetic gear lub that stated it had the friction modifier in it but I wound up having to put more in because the clutches would grab when I turned corners. If your diff. was low on oil it could have caused both problems ( the grabing when you turn and it could have caused a wheel bearing to go bad. That would be the growel) By putting new oil in cuold also make both problems go away temporarilly but if your bearing was groweling the damage is done and it will get worse again. I would check the inside of your drums and see if there is gear oil leaking on the inside if so you will need to change the bearing seals. It doesnt take much more to replace the bearings at the same time. I hope this helps.
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