Garnet Kid

Pulled the rear drums to check on a shudder and found both sides fairly covered in oil. Are there any instructions on removing the axles available. I have a manual but can't find in there where they show how to do the Spicer 70 rear end. I have had new one ton brake cylinders and new shoes available for the past couple of years waiting to do a brake job. Just wans't counting on doing the seals, until now.

wannadiesel

Just remove the bolts on the axle flange, then give the flange a whack with a hammer. It should drop about 1/4" when you break it free, then just slide the drippy oily monster out and find a clean spot to lay it down. I'm not sure what kind of locking system your hub nut has, on 1st gens it's a key and a nylock nut. I think on your truck it's a washer with tabs that bend up around the flats of the nut. You should replace it. Axle nut size is 2 9/16" rounded corner. You're going to lose more oil when you pull the hub, so have a pan handy.

kd460

Do a search on axle seals. You will find my post as well as others.

Yes remove the 8 bolts on the flange, pull the axle. Then you will need the 2 and 9/16 inch socket , to remove the nut after you remove the little locking key or wedge. The wedge pulls straight out. It is just a wedge that is driven into the plastic of the nylon lock nut to prevent the nylon lock nut from backing out. I hear Napa carries the wedges, the nuts, the seals, and the socket. Get all the stuff you need before hand. Also need 4 quarts of diff. Fluid (about 3 1/2 quarts).

Touque values of the nuts, I will need to look them up for you. You torque to a certian value, then back it off a certian amount of a turn. I will also try to find a link for the socket online. It was like 10.00 to 15.00 dollars. I reeused my nuts and wedge, but you need to decide if you want to do that. I would also recommend synthetic diff fluid.

Hope this helps, Kevin

Hope this helps

jimk

First of all check the vent on the top of the differential. If it is stoped up then you will have all kinds of problems with the seals. I dont reccomend reusing the nylock nut and tab or what ever the piece of tin is called. If it comes out and I have seen this happen you will have a bad day. I have replaced the end of the axle housing before, but you have to have a jig and a stub to do so and know how to weld. I wont discuss the welding as every one has a different opion here. I can pass x ray, and the other tests that is required to test on boiler tubes.
Buy a new nylock and keeper, now a guy on the TDR told me that you can go back to the old style double nut. I was told that the reason the dodge lowered the level a little was to help on oil leaks but that it was not good over the course of time on bearing? I fill my rear end to the oil plug hole. I read where end play on the hub after you have tighten the nut should be be between .001- .010. I like to use antiseze on the studs on the axle housings and the self adjusters on the brakes . I like to spear a Little grease on the bearings when I install new seals. NOT a huge amount , and use a drive on the seals. What you dont wont to happen is the hub to come off after you reuse the nylock. I am not saying that it will come off if you reuse the nut and tab, but if it does you will be plenty unhappy. just an idea, it may not be a good one Jim

Garnet Kid

Well, I took the easy way out of this one and phoned the dealer to see what they charge for replacing the seals and to install my linings and cylinders. Labour was just under 2hrs, so I figured what the heck, they can make the mess in their shop. I was in and out in two hours.
Thanks for the input, I will probably do it myself the next time which by the sounds of it will likely be sooner than later. Yet, I have had the truck since new and it has 186,000 klms kso I can't really be complaining about rear seals.