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Really ignorant crank seal questions

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Old 06-14-2006 | 03:27 AM
  #1  
Murf's Avatar
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From: Joplin MO
Really ignorant crank seal questions

Ok guys, does the crank seal install from the front (outside) or the rear (inside) of the timing cover? And BTW, my seal kit I bought from Cummins came without directions. If anyone wants to help me with what parts I got I'd appreciate it!
1. Crank seal. I DO know what that is!
2. Steel core/rubber seal. tell me what it is and where it goes
3. Clear plastic 'widget'. I believe this guides the seal onto the crank?
4. Pressed sheetmetal 'whozeewatsit'. This is the seal installation tool?

Also My crank snout has grooves (see gallery) should I go deeper or shallower? Actually, not knowing shallow from deep, because I don't know which way the seal installs. I guess I should say, should I install the seal more towards the front of the truck or the rear?

Edited to ask this one too! When I hear "install dry" does this just mean when you actually install it over the crank or when you put it in the timing case as well?


Sorry for the stupidity, and THANK YOU for the help!
Old 06-14-2006 | 08:09 AM
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It goes in from the front (outside). As for your #2 question i forgot i think it goes on after the seal but dont quote me on that it has been along time since i did mine. I am sure someone will help you with that answer.
Old 06-14-2006 | 11:06 AM
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From: Irricana, Alberta, Canada
It can go on either side front or rear, it is easier to go from the rear as per the instructions from the tst kit.The other "seal " is a dust seal that can go on between the damper and the cover. If you have grooves you may need to speedy sleeve it if you can't find a position out of the gooves. Dry install does mean when putting the cover back on, you should clean the end of the crank with some brake clean or alcohol.The clear plastic gadget is to protect the seal as you slide it on over the crank.Put it in the seal with the big end towards the crank, it will push itself through the seal as you put the cover back on. It helps to put the cover in the oven and warm it up and the seal in the freezer.They also recomend putting some loctite (blue, i believe) around the cover and seal mating surface. good luck and take your time the seal can be a pain to get in. Almost forgot the steel ring is the install tool.
Old 06-14-2006 | 04:38 PM
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
save yourself some effort and have the Cummins shop press the seal into the cover for you. takes them all of 2 minutes to do that. I ruined a seal trying to press it in myself, but of course I have two left hands...
Old 06-14-2006 | 06:57 PM
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From: Terre Haute,IN
grooves in crank

The good book says if the grooves on the crank are deep enough to be felt with a sharp object or fingernail, it will be necessary to install a wear sleeve to prevent an oil leak.

If this is the case, order the crank seal and wear sleeve kit. For a 90 6bt the price difference was $26 seal only, vs. $79 wear sleeve and seal kit. I'm not totally sure if the two seals are different. I know they are with the rear crank wear sleeve kit. With it, you get a wear sleeve and seal as a unit. According to the good book it shows installing a wear sleeve on the front, then installing a seal in the front cover.

You might consider ordering a Cummins troubleshoot and repair manual. Bulletin # 3666087-01 Published 10/99. Makes things clearer and easy to do.

Don't forget to replace the front timing cover gasket as well.
Old 06-14-2006 | 07:25 PM
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infidel's Avatar
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From: Montana
I use a drill press (not running) to press the seal in.
Piece of cake.
Old 06-14-2006 | 07:57 PM
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From: Indiana
seal

Yes dry means dry also no oil at all! The seal is teflon and they want it dry because it actually transfers itself to the crank on start up to make the seal work better.
Old 06-15-2006 | 01:03 AM
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From: Joplin MO
Thumbs up

As always, Excellent info!

Thanks guys. Looks like once again you've talked me into spending MORE money on this truck!
Old 06-15-2006 | 07:45 AM
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
the seals are different, the seal that comes with the wear sleeve has a slightly larger ID.
Old 07-02-2006 | 09:08 PM
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From: Seattle Area
Not a bad follow-on sticky to the KDP how-to

Originally Posted by ccmckee
It can go on either side front or rear, it is easier to go from the rear as per the instructions from the tst kit.The other "seal " is a dust seal that can go on between the damper and the cover. If you have grooves you may need to speedy sleeve it if you can't find a position out of the gooves. Dry install does mean when putting the cover back on, you should clean the end of the crank with some brake clean or alcohol.The clear plastic gadget is to protect the seal as you slide it on over the crank.Put it in the seal with the big end towards the crank, it will push itself through the seal as you put the cover back on. It helps to put the cover in the oven and warm it up and the seal in the freezer.They also recomend putting some loctite (blue, i believe) around the cover and seal mating surface. good luck and take your time the seal can be a pain to get in. Almost forgot the steel ring is the install tool.
This is not a bad follow-on sticky to the KDP how-to. I just had the exact questions while killing my KDP today. And by the way, The coat hanger tab seems best for the way for first gens since the tab is set back in the hole, not a flat surface like later engines.
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