My Dad came across a recent story on the show Trucks about upgrading the factory 2500 & 3500 rear wheel brake cylinders to the Chevy 1 ton model cylinders (larger diameter).

I did a search and it looks like everyone liked the simple and cheap upgrade. The one thing I asked and didn't see in the discussions was any mention of brake proportioning.

I imagine the earlier model Rams have a brake propertioning valve, so I'm wondering - once the system gets modified does it impact / unbalance the proportioning or does the upgrade simply address a basic design issue (poor proportioning) from the factory?

Thanks for any feedback.

EDR

 

did it on mine and it works great.actually feels like brakes should! Stops good and the nose does not dive like it used too. You wont need to mess with proportioning. Some guys complain of rear wheel lockup but I have not noticed it all and been over the icy passes with em a couple times. rw abs seems to work fine on mine. I'm not sure but i think the people who are having that problem have other issues causing it.

 

So my invention made it to Trucks!
Knew I should have patented it...

I've done this mod on dozens of trucks starting about 12 years ago and haven't run into any problems except the owners almost going though the windshield on their first stop. Once you're used to brakes the way they are supposed to work it's great.
A very few people here have said it made their rears grabby but it seems to be related to another undetermined problem.

 

Did mine on Friday. Not a huge difference, but definitely noticable. I'd reccomend it.

I also tried the spin the drums with a lug nut on and jab the brakes to pop the drums loose trick. Worked like a charm.

 

I definitely noticed better braking, but it wasn't THAT much better Maybe it's because I was prepared to go through the windshield...

 

The upgrade isn't as noticeable on '97 and newer 2500s and all 3500s.
In '97 all models got 3500 cylinders.
The GM sized cylinders produce around a 50% increase in braking force with pre '97 2500s but only a 23% increase on 3500s and newer 2500s.

 

Ah, that makes sense. I'm glad I did the upgrade. 23% is still 23%

 

Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

I got the information to my Dad, but when he tried to buy the parts the NAPA shop was only able to locate one of the Chevy 1 Ton wheel cylinders (using the part number from one of the early '04 forum discussions) in stock for the entire lower 48.

Since some of you have performed the upgrade more recently, is there a new(er) or replacement part number for the correct chevy wheel cylinder? Oh, and in case it matters, he has a 1995 2500, manual tranny and 4x4.

Again, TIA!

 

What year of chevy (wheel Cylinders) should i be asking for ? 50% increase sounds good to me . I never though my truck stoped that well anyway it certainly couldn't hurt.

 

Early '90s 1ton GMC works

 

I tried doing this upgrade a few weeks backs. When I purchased the first set of cylinders they looked just like the write up posted here a while back - the 'made in italy' label and all. About a week later one of them developed a *huge* leak. When I went back to the same store and the guy pulled up the same part number it was a completely different cylinder. A much larger cylinder that would not have fit.

Long story short - I wasn't able to source these cylinders a second time. I think that the picture on NAPA's web site has changed too, but I'm not sure.

Ended up going with the larger cylinders from a later model RAM.

 

thanks I will try this week

 

The 1-3/16" cylinders are available from NAPA. Ask for 1995 Chevy 1 ton dual wheel. I checked and the NAPA and another store both listed my 97 replacements as 15/16" cylinders. The Dodge 1 ton are 1-1/16" cylinders.
I think the 96 and lower was a 7/8" cyllinder for 3/4 ton and 15/16" for 1 ton. Need to check that when I get the chance.

I did the replacement about a month ago. I notice better braking off the rears for normal stopping. A panic stop will lock the rears and the Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) does not function.

Yes it messes up the proportioning valve. The PV only looks at pressure in the line, not PSI apply pressure.

 

So which ones do you reccomend?

 

I have a 96 I went with the GM cyl. very happy with the results. I got the P/N that has been referenced in the forum post, is it no longer available?

Floyd