andy9874

[SIZE="4"][FONT="Tahoma"]Was wondering if you all could look at this pictures and give me and opinion,
This is a 96 12valve, one ton, 4X4, has lift kit on it, dually; I’m really not very familiar with the front end.

The problem is that is eating the front passenger tire at a rate of about one tire every 5 miles, the truck has no steering problems, no, bounce or shake, for me it drives fine but I’m getting tired of buying tires and wondering if the wheel is going to fall off due to wear on the suspension components. I have a brake in school so I like to get this done over spring break. In addition the steering box is leaking terribly. So I need to get that taken care of also while I'm in there, I wanted to ask for help with the diagnosis, I really don't want to do work I don't have to.

Here is the link to the pictures.

http://picasaweb.google.com/andy3945/FrontEnd#

(Question for the administrator, should I load up the pictures to this forum? they will not be on goggles’ Picasa indefinitely, and they really help me.)

Ok looking at the passenger side, which is the problem the lower ball joint looks shot and I think is the original one as it has a nipple, unlike the driver’s side which looks like it has been replaced, I'm thinking that is part of the problem, if you look at the cams, or lobes they seem to both be on the same location at the one o clock position, however, there is a gap in one of them which could be part of the problem, I’m sure one of the tires is further back then the other, this is two a poss. problem, I know the driver’s side u joint is also completely dry and will soon go out. I'm also concerned about the sealed wheel bearings; I would feel a lot better if I could lube them every 3 oil changes or so. In addition to that the lug nuts that were installed on the truck are the wrong ones, does anybody have the part number and source to buy a set of the correct lug nuts? And as it is obvious the steering gear box needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

So looks like this is what I'm going to do.

R @ R all 4 ball joints and u joints with regreaseble type.
Since the u joints will come out, the inner and outer seals must be changed.
While I'm there going to turn rotors and exchange the pads.
Any thoughts on the steering gear box would be appreciated or a link to a tutorial on how to do this and how to re align it.
I'm concerned about the seal bearings and would like to have a shop install a lube nipple on the current ones, that would make me feel better then even buying new ones, I live in Seattle, does anyone know a machine shop that can do that here in Seattle ?? Also would like to weld a ring on the lower ball joint to keep the nipple from being ripped off by road debri.

I like some ideas on how to re align the front end, nothing to technical, I just want the truck to drive straight, I'm not real clear on canter and all that, but some basic ideas on how to torque down the top ball joint, so to the tires lines up, or level to a string ? And how to set the cams so that they are not off. Maybe measure from a point on the front hub to a point on the chassis, make sure both are the same length??
I think these are the only two adjustments these trucks have? On the front end.
Any part numbers would be appreciated.... or links. (I have a Napa nearby)
Thank you all very much for your input I will post the pictures as the work progresses, I'm also doing a valve adjustment and head re torque on the truck but that is another treat...
I would like to keep all the stock equipment, even if I'm not sure what some of the components due.
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spuds

I had a DT Trackbar installed,align,trailing arm bushings,steering box done,cost 1500 bucks if any help. Front end nice and tight now.Thats all that was needed at 207,000 miles,shocked me ball joints and tie rod ends good.

1000 bucks for new BFG AT tires.

Hodge

Are your axle seals leaking? You can take the axles in and out without having to replace the seals. I just did. Replacing the seals is a pretty big job, from the way it looks.

andy9874

The seals are not leaking, but since as I understand I have to take the axle"s off to replace the u joint, might as well replace the seals. Hate to re assemble and have it leak.

Hodge

You do not access the seals when you pull the axle shafts out. You have to get to them from inside the differential, and inside the axle housing where the CAD is. A lot of work.

andy9874

The tear down was really simple, I'm surprise how easy it all went, does any one know the size of the nut on the bottom ball joint ? also Im not sure how to remove the gears from the differential, can some one walk me throught it, toommoro, I will order the new parts. breaks are fine, and really two out of the four are good ball joints but I'm going to trow 4 new ones in, and both u joints, not sure about the bearings, there was no seal on the outer side near the u joint, and I could see the inner one, I was not expecting the axel to just slide out, not sure how the vacum actuator plays in to this ?? any news on a machine shop to split the bearings and install the grease nipples... thanks for the input...

spuds

On the cam adjust,they should be same on both sides,right?Also is it a big deal if axle slides out,or should this be avoided at all costs,ie,like when doing rotors?

andy9874

I'm not sure, I'm looking for that information, I just realized that the horseshoe like adjustment, with the off center on the bottom front arm has one adjustment on each side. for me the axel sliding out means that I have to take the differential apart so that I can make sure the inner seal will not be damaged and leak, is a big job, but I want to make sure the truck will not leak once re assembled...

Hodge

I did mine a week ago, and just carefully slid the axles back in. No leaks, no issues, no need to pull the diff cover.

andy9874

Thanks that is going to save me a lot of work.

andy9874

I'm still tearing donw the truck, had some questions about the bearings and the size on the bottom ball joint nut, what size are they ??