Purchasing Help
#1
Purchasing Help
Howdy All
I am new to the game, and was hoping folks could point me in the right direction. I am going to purchase my first, and am looking for a checklist of things to look for in the new rig. I am pretty much settled on a 94/95/96 as I cannot afford more than $8500. I am looking for a very standard farm workhorse--4x4 clubcab longbed. I don't need any mods although I am sure I will lust for them quickly. Can anyone offer a checklist of problem spots for these years? I drove a 95 recently that was loosing oil somewhere and would like to know where the common oil loss places are. It seems like auto trannys are far more common, and also are replaced often.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!
I am new to the game, and was hoping folks could point me in the right direction. I am going to purchase my first, and am looking for a checklist of things to look for in the new rig. I am pretty much settled on a 94/95/96 as I cannot afford more than $8500. I am looking for a very standard farm workhorse--4x4 clubcab longbed. I don't need any mods although I am sure I will lust for them quickly. Can anyone offer a checklist of problem spots for these years? I drove a 95 recently that was loosing oil somewhere and would like to know where the common oil loss places are. It seems like auto trannys are far more common, and also are replaced often.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!
#2
1. ask about the kdp (killer dowel pin) check the top of the timing cover to see if its been welded back together. Do a search on it, you ll need to anyways.
2. Ask about 5h gear, if it was fixed, plan on it, and put a pto cooler on the trans when you get to it.
3. Get a bd short shifter. just cause
4. starter contacts....get the good ones...and ask if there is a hint of a starting problem.
5. Check to see if it has a fram filter....hope it doesnt and never ever put one on.
6. Check the front hubs, for leaks.....it gets expensive
2. Ask about 5h gear, if it was fixed, plan on it, and put a pto cooler on the trans when you get to it.
3. Get a bd short shifter. just cause
4. starter contacts....get the good ones...and ask if there is a hint of a starting problem.
5. Check to see if it has a fram filter....hope it doesnt and never ever put one on.
6. Check the front hubs, for leaks.....it gets expensive
#4
They have a history of causing problems, ussually with oil pressure starvation.
If memory serves it has to do with the bypass design. A search would reveal it probably.
Napa, is probably the best bet for a filter or a real truck shop(big rig shop)
If memory serves it has to do with the bypass design. A search would reveal it probably.
Napa, is probably the best bet for a filter or a real truck shop(big rig shop)
#5
well timing cover is the first, then check the tightness of the front end, check for leaks at the rear main. check clutch slippage if manual, check oils, open radiator cap should be green no brown. check fuel lines for cracking, check. also if you are going to check a truck out dont let the seller run it before get there and try to check it out first thing in the morning while cool. bd short shift wont fit on the NV4500. and i vote for napa or fleetguard for filters.
#7
where did you find it? does yours have the new style or the old style top cover? i was going to get one but didnt think they had them available for the old style top cover. i got a tranny on the floor and was going to swap out the top covers just to run the short shifter. maybe i wont have to.
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#8
I will vote for Cummins oil filters. I was told by a Cummins tech that some of the earliest oil related failures were linked by Cummins to N A P A brand filters.
When the filters were cut open, the filter media was collapsed and either starved the engine of oil, or spread filter media into the engine and plugged the piston spray nozzle at the top on the connecting rod and burned up a piston.
That is first hand information, not internet fantasy.
It is your engine, do what you want.
Ronnie
When the filters were cut open, the filter media was collapsed and either starved the engine of oil, or spread filter media into the engine and plugged the piston spray nozzle at the top on the connecting rod and burned up a piston.
That is first hand information, not internet fantasy.
It is your engine, do what you want.
Ronnie
#10
First off, welcome to DTR
Like everyone else says look at the front end, they can be pricey to repair.
If it has a lot of miles on it, check the turbo and make sure the wheel is tight.
Ask about the kdp and 5th gear nut and just other general stuff. Find out as much of the history as you can about the truck, dont buy the first one you see, theres lots of them out there keep looking until you find exactly what you want. I see you said your looking for a 94,95, or 96. The 94's and 95's had a smaller pump on them, the manuals had 175 hp stock. The 96 and up trucks had a 215hp pump. That doesnt mean a 94 or 95 is weak, I have a 95 with a few mods and love it. The auto trucks were even less hp but I dont know the numbers. Dont be afraid to drive a little for a good rust free truck, I drove over 700 miles to get the 95 in my sig below because it was a 1 owner rust free southern beauty. It was cheaper for me to drive a few hundred miles than to fix rusty body panels. I have carfax for another week I think, so I can run a few vin #'s for you if you would like, just send me the vin# in a pm and I'll run it. Good luck in your search
Like everyone else says look at the front end, they can be pricey to repair.
If it has a lot of miles on it, check the turbo and make sure the wheel is tight.
Ask about the kdp and 5th gear nut and just other general stuff. Find out as much of the history as you can about the truck, dont buy the first one you see, theres lots of them out there keep looking until you find exactly what you want. I see you said your looking for a 94,95, or 96. The 94's and 95's had a smaller pump on them, the manuals had 175 hp stock. The 96 and up trucks had a 215hp pump. That doesnt mean a 94 or 95 is weak, I have a 95 with a few mods and love it. The auto trucks were even less hp but I dont know the numbers. Dont be afraid to drive a little for a good rust free truck, I drove over 700 miles to get the 95 in my sig below because it was a 1 owner rust free southern beauty. It was cheaper for me to drive a few hundred miles than to fix rusty body panels. I have carfax for another week I think, so I can run a few vin #'s for you if you would like, just send me the vin# in a pm and I'll run it. Good luck in your search
Howdy All
I am new to the game, and was hoping folks could point me in the right direction. I am going to purchase my first, and am looking for a checklist of things to look for in the new rig. I am pretty much settled on a 94/95/96 as I cannot afford more than $8500. I am looking for a very standard farm workhorse--4x4 clubcab longbed. I don't need any mods although I am sure I will lust for them quickly. Can anyone offer a checklist of problem spots for these years? I drove a 95 recently that was loosing oil somewhere and would like to know where the common oil loss places are. It seems like auto trannys are far more common, and also are replaced often.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!
I am new to the game, and was hoping folks could point me in the right direction. I am going to purchase my first, and am looking for a checklist of things to look for in the new rig. I am pretty much settled on a 94/95/96 as I cannot afford more than $8500. I am looking for a very standard farm workhorse--4x4 clubcab longbed. I don't need any mods although I am sure I will lust for them quickly. Can anyone offer a checklist of problem spots for these years? I drove a 95 recently that was loosing oil somewhere and would like to know where the common oil loss places are. It seems like auto trannys are far more common, and also are replaced often.
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE!!!!
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