pump timing question
#1
pump timing question
i got my snap on timing kit and barring tool and planned on doing the timing yesterday. after we found tdc, i decided to go ahead and check valve clearance before i did this, wow, they were way off, might explain the loss of mileage. we then looked at the instuctions and took the delivery valve off and got ready to put the guage in, when we read the instructions to set it at 7-9mm before installing this, but the snap on guage i recieved with the kit does not let you do this, can anyone explain how, or why you have to do this. any help would be appreciated, running the valves helped out a lot with the noise, and brought back that cackle that i've grown to love.
#3
If setting yours is anything like setting the VE pump, the 7 ~ 9mm would be a preload if you will. Once the gauge is in place, you'll most likely have to turn the engine backwards, watching the gauge drop. You'll stop turning the engine when the gauge stops dropping. It's at that point you'll zero the gauge.
Then turn the engine forward to TDC and note reading on gauge.
Again, that's if your mess is like the VE in setting the timing.
I could be way off here . . . . .
Then turn the engine forward to TDC and note reading on gauge.
Again, that's if your mess is like the VE in setting the timing.
I could be way off here . . . . .
#5
mine wouldn't let me set the gauge either, but it was because the timing was out so far,( I had just put the pump back on & it wasn't pinned, so therefore I have no idea where the pump timing was??) I just pinned the pump first & then pulled the gear & then found TDC on the motor & then sungged the gear back onto the shaft & started all over, but a word of caution if you pin the pump for whatever reason BE SURE to remove the pin before turning the motor over, I broke two timing pins in mine & removing the pump got to be a real pain in the butt!!!! but you might try pinning the pump & then finding TDC on the motor, it worked for me, Dusty
#6
Marine4life:
The instructions get kind of confusing. I think I read through them 10 times before I even touched the truck. It also helps to watch someone the first time. What you are talking about with setting the dial indicator to 7-9 mm is using an adaptor the screws onto the #1 delivery valve holder after the DV is removed. You then slide the dial indicator up or down until it reads between 7 - 9 mm. This gives you enough movement of the plunger up and down to see how far the plunger lifts up. Think of it this way - if you bottomed the dial indicator out in the delivery valve there's no room for it to move. Watch you type of dial indicator too as some move 0.1 mm per two revolutions and some per one. Here's the link for timing Timing instructions look at step #11 to see about adjusting the dial indicator in the special holder. Read through the instructions standing at the truck and think about which way you rotate the engine and it will all make sense. Best is to get comfortable checking your present setting before thinking about loosening anything up. If you don't have a DV adaptor to hold the dial indicator there were some old links to hooch up a holder. Hope this helps, let us know.
Paul
The instructions get kind of confusing. I think I read through them 10 times before I even touched the truck. It also helps to watch someone the first time. What you are talking about with setting the dial indicator to 7-9 mm is using an adaptor the screws onto the #1 delivery valve holder after the DV is removed. You then slide the dial indicator up or down until it reads between 7 - 9 mm. This gives you enough movement of the plunger up and down to see how far the plunger lifts up. Think of it this way - if you bottomed the dial indicator out in the delivery valve there's no room for it to move. Watch you type of dial indicator too as some move 0.1 mm per two revolutions and some per one. Here's the link for timing Timing instructions look at step #11 to see about adjusting the dial indicator in the special holder. Read through the instructions standing at the truck and think about which way you rotate the engine and it will all make sense. Best is to get comfortable checking your present setting before thinking about loosening anything up. If you don't have a DV adaptor to hold the dial indicator there were some old links to hooch up a holder. Hope this helps, let us know.
Paul
#7
thanks guys, that makes a heck of a lot more sense now. What parts do i need to lock the injection pump so i can advance it? Do i have to order it specially or can i use some every day parts. thanks in advance, doing this myself has been a great learning experience and will save me money in the long run.
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#8
You dont need to pin it to retime the motor. The idea of pinning the pump is so that it stays at same spot when its removed from the motor. Reread the timing directions. All you need to do is pop the gear loose and reinstall it to get the timing right. The directions are confusing but it is actually pretty easy.
#11
Originally Posted by marine4life
i apologize, what i meant was that the gear is locked to the pump shaft, so it rotates with the engine. how do you lock the pumpshaft to the gear, what do i need to do this?
You hold the barring tool to keep the pump from turning while tightening the gear nut.
#12
i have a snap on kit also. i don't know if they changed the kits or what but the indicator that comes with it is too short. i think this is what he is talking about when you place the indicator in the dv holder the most you can get it to read is 2 or 3mm and will not read when you bar the engine over far enough. i think if iit was about a half inch longer it would be fine
#14
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store
the barring tool you have to buy extra it's $50. the delivery valve socket that comes with the timing kit comes in real handy too
the barring tool you have to buy extra it's $50. the delivery valve socket that comes with the timing kit comes in real handy too