Proud new owner of a 12v, now lets mod this thing!
07-13-2007, 08:45 PM
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Proud new owner of a 12v, now lets mod this thing!
I am picking up the truck in 12 hours. Its a 1997 2500 Ext Cab Long Bed. Its automatics and got 180k. First remember I have a stock A4 for now and its my daily driver. I have already got money saving for a transmission. But until then what are the common cheap or free mods I can do until I get the transmission built? I am either doing stacks or a 5" out the side exhuast soon and will probably do a custom intake. As far as fueling, should I do the 3k and grind my plate to a 10? Would that be ok on a stock Auto? If not I can wait, but I am such a smoke and performance *****, its hard for me not to. My ultimate goal is a 12 or 13 second truck, but I am aware thats out of reach until the tranny gets done. Lets here some opinions.
Yes, the KDP will be checked as soon as I get it.
PS I traded my 2003 Duramax in on it
-Dustin-
Yes, the KDP will be checked as soon as I get it.
PS I traded my 2003 Duramax in on it
-Dustin-
07-13-2007, 09:27 PM
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To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.
A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.
More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...
The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..
When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.
Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.
To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.
Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.
Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.
There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.
Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.
The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.
07-13-2007, 11:18 PM
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So maybe just the 3k kit, intake, and exhaust, until I get the tranny worked over? I am hoping to do that in a few months.
What typical power/performance levels can be made on the stock turbo with just these pump mods and the above mentioned modifications? Would a converter help at all, or wait till the whole thing is done? I am probably having a local company do a level 5 Suncoast and converter, perhaps and input shaft too...
Thanks a ton fella's. I wish I knew as much about Cummin's as I do about small blocks chevy's.
-Dustin-
What typical power/performance levels can be made on the stock turbo with just these pump mods and the above mentioned modifications? Would a converter help at all, or wait till the whole thing is done? I am probably having a local company do a level 5 Suncoast and converter, perhaps and input shaft too...
Thanks a ton fella's. I wish I knew as much about Cummin's as I do about small blocks chevy's.
-Dustin-
07-14-2007, 01:20 AM
#6
my guess would be around 350hp/800tq for EGT's on the stock turbo, could be wrong, but i think it's somewhere close to that when EGT's start getting out of hand for the stock turbo.
the free mods mentioned above should get you right around 300hp (depending what plate u choose to grind) since u have a 180 pump. Power comes pretty easy on these 12v's. I think the 180 pump 12v has 440tq stock, those numbers can be doubled pretty easy, add some injectors, dv's, turbo and ur doing burnouts on accident, lol. I think u'll fall in love with the cummins and get to know it just like the small block becuase it's a very simple motor to work around.
the free mods mentioned above should get you right around 300hp (depending what plate u choose to grind) since u have a 180 pump. Power comes pretty easy on these 12v's. I think the 180 pump 12v has 440tq stock, those numbers can be doubled pretty easy, add some injectors, dv's, turbo and ur doing burnouts on accident, lol. I think u'll fall in love with the cummins and get to know it just like the small block becuase it's a very simple motor to work around.
07-14-2007, 07:49 PM
#7
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97 12 valve with 110k
Congrats on your purchase. I have a 2500 97 with 110k, that I am thinking of selling, but have no idea what it would be worth.
If you don't mind, how much did you pay for yours?
Mine is stock just like it came from factory. Extended cab with matching bed cover and Jake brake.
If you don't mind, how much did you pay for yours?
Mine is stock just like it came from factory. Extended cab with matching bed cover and Jake brake.
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07-14-2007, 11:10 PM
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Picked it up today and drove it 8 hours home [Yea there were no 12v's anywhere near me] I seems to already have modded. It has what looks like a 4" SS MRBP exhaust with 5" tip. And it pulls like a raped ape for a stock 12v!? It also has an Mag-tech or whatever tranny pan, which makes me thing that it might have a converter or something?! All I know is that it has more ***** than my Duramax ever did and I have got to figure out whats been done. The turbo whistles nicely, it gives up a plume of smoke on the start up, and when under load at highway speeds definately smokes.
Any way to see if the 3k has already been done? How about what a stock coverter looks like compared to aftermarket? Is there an inspection cover on the tranny?
Thanks fellas. I had more fun in a 8 hour drive with my Cummins that I did with the Duramax for a year.
-Dustin-
Any way to see if the 3k has already been done? How about what a stock coverter looks like compared to aftermarket? Is there an inspection cover on the tranny?
Thanks fellas. I had more fun in a 8 hour drive with my Cummins that I did with the Duramax for a year.
-Dustin-
07-15-2007, 01:56 AM
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