power loss after fuel filter change
#1
power loss after fuel filter change
Hey guys, new to this board. I have a 95 25004wd auto dodge.. I changed out the fuel filter and after re installing it I noticed major power loss, almost as though there was no turbo.. I thought it might be a bad filter so I installed another one and no change.. it starts and runs fine but still no power. I pulled off the intake tube and the bearings and all seem to be fine on the turbo. I am at a total loss as to the problem. The waste gate is shut off and I have a newer stop plate in the pump. the turbo seems to be trying to make power but I have to put it to the floor just to get up to 45mph..
The truck has about 260000 miles on it and has been serviced regularly.
do any of you have any ideas??? oh yeah, there is no exhaust smoke with the pedal to the floor. It seems to me it is not getting enough fuel...??/
Thanks,
Bret
The truck has about 260000 miles on it and has been serviced regularly.
do any of you have any ideas??? oh yeah, there is no exhaust smoke with the pedal to the floor. It seems to me it is not getting enough fuel...??/
Thanks,
Bret
Last edited by Bret66; 04-19-2006 at 03:24 PM. Reason: more info.
#2
The turbo/wastegate checks out fine. The lift pump has pressure.. how much pressure should you get from the lift pump?? Still is not getting enough fuel. I had a mech check it out and he is scratching his head on this as well. he thinks it is in the pump, or maybe sucked some trash into the pump..
It ran like a spotted ape this morning before changing out the fuel filter..
Anyone ever run across this problem???
Thanks
It ran like a spotted ape this morning before changing out the fuel filter..
Anyone ever run across this problem???
Thanks
#4
Sometimes a bad lift pump doesn't show up until you change the fuel filter and break suction.
Check fuel pressure, it should be 17 - 22 psi at idle and 25 - 35 psi at 2500 rpm (no load). If it's low squeeze the return fuel line behind the filter shut with pliers, engine running. The pressure should hit 50 psi almost instantly, if it doesn't the overflow valve is bad, lift pump good.
If you prefilled the fuel filter it's very possible that crud made it to your injection pump or injectors. This is the reason I don't prefill.
Check fuel pressure, it should be 17 - 22 psi at idle and 25 - 35 psi at 2500 rpm (no load). If it's low squeeze the return fuel line behind the filter shut with pliers, engine running. The pressure should hit 50 psi almost instantly, if it doesn't the overflow valve is bad, lift pump good.
If you prefilled the fuel filter it's very possible that crud made it to your injection pump or injectors. This is the reason I don't prefill.
#5
I pre-fill about 1/2 full (so I don't spill it getting it back in there), but I don't run the fuel into the clean side. I just use a 1/4" hose and siphon it from the in bed tank and let it run into the outer holes on the filter. That way I don't have to prime it by hand for an eternity. Just did that today.
Good luck in finding the problem... never had it happen to me, so I don't have much for suggestions.
Good luck in finding the problem... never had it happen to me, so I don't have much for suggestions.
#7
There seems to be plenty of fuel getting to the pump. I can crack open the the return and get a steady stream of fuel, open the pump side and same thing. Running in park it goes up 2300rpm ok, but not like it used to. you have to hold the throttle down for a couple of seconds before the rpm's come up..
I will have to get someone to put a pressure guage on it tomorrow and see if we can narrow it down.
BTW , I did not prefill the filter when I changed it
Thanks for your help.. I will keep you posted.
I will have to get someone to put a pressure guage on it tomorrow and see if we can narrow it down.
BTW , I did not prefill the filter when I changed it
Thanks for your help.. I will keep you posted.
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#9
Well, I figured it out! it was the kill solenoid.. it is weak and opens upon starting, but eases back down ... shutting off fuel....
Thanks for all the help...
Bret
Thanks for all the help...
Bret
Last edited by Bret66; 04-20-2006 at 09:15 AM. Reason: update
#12
DO NOT REPLACE THE SOLENOID!!!!!!
The solenoid is the most needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, expensive too.
The solenoid is simple heavy duty unit that will easily last the the life of the truck.
There is no such thing as a weak one, either it works or it doesn't. When it doesn't work it is usually visibly burnt up on the outside.
The problem lies elsewhere. If the solenoid boot is torn the solenoid should be removed cleaned and the boot replaced. Most likly there is gunk preventing it from pulling up all the way.
Most common causes of solenoid failure are the blue wire at the driver's side battery corroded or a bad solenoid relay on the firewall.
The solenoid is the most needlessly replaced item on a 12 valve, expensive too.
The solenoid is simple heavy duty unit that will easily last the the life of the truck.
There is no such thing as a weak one, either it works or it doesn't. When it doesn't work it is usually visibly burnt up on the outside.
The problem lies elsewhere. If the solenoid boot is torn the solenoid should be removed cleaned and the boot replaced. Most likly there is gunk preventing it from pulling up all the way.
Most common causes of solenoid failure are the blue wire at the driver's side battery corroded or a bad solenoid relay on the firewall.
#15
$27 here http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
or you can cut a section of 1.75" bicycle inner-tube and attach it with two cable ties.
My experience is that the bike tube will last much longer than the OEM boot.
or you can cut a section of 1.75" bicycle inner-tube and attach it with two cable ties.
My experience is that the bike tube will last much longer than the OEM boot.