stock600

Had it adj. to 18* and it ran great. Drove around with no problems for a long time the first time i went to give it some power it went to running really bad. Got it home and found the timing had slipped, it was around .90" rather than the .206 that i had it set to. Re timed it to 193*= 16* and ran great again drove around again with no troubles till i gave it maybe 1/2 trottle again and same thing it slipped. Both times i torq. the nut to factory 144 ft lbs and even replaced the lock nut the second time due to the stocker looked like the washer was flattened out. The temps will get out of control real quick when the timing is retard. Any tips or advise to lock the timing down so that it wont slip???? Thanks Ryan

aksparkey01

make sure there is no oil on the gear or nut when you torque it back down. &give it a little more on the nut. i like to go to 160.

logskidder

Use a little brakeclean on the gear and shaft....I then use a propane torch to burn any left over oil out. Since your gear has slipped 2x I would really tq it down......I have done quite a few of these and the only time I have had one slip is when I tq it to spec's.

stock600

Scared to try much heat as theres a seal right behind there for the pump. Any other torq. # people use when they do this? My torq. wrench only goes to 150 lbs. What to there and then some.........Any thing else?

Tate

Use brake clean or electrical contact cleaner, spray it good, let it dry, seat the gear, I torque it to 180. Timed my truck twice, and did another members, no slippage yet.

infidel

I prefer to use electrical contact cleaner as it doesn't seem to leave as much residues as brake cleaner.

John_P

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I agree with Bill and like DTR Member Tate said, I think 180 ft.lbs. is O.K. too.

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John_P

bbuchanan

Stock600,
Was the lock washer that you used just a regular lock washer or was it the "special" wavy Bosch lock washer?
Brian

stock600

Brian, the stacker was flat so i found a 3/4 reg. lock washer and it was Just slightly to small [id] i honed it out to fit the shaft. I went back out earlier and redid it again this time cleaning everything with carb cleaner and run a map gas torch over it to help dry out the tapered seat and shaft, installed new lock washer and tor. to all my wrench had [160] and then went a little. Went for a drive and all seems ok again for now. Im scared this truck w/o a innercooler is going to give me fits, the afc is full forward but the CPlate is prob. a little back from centered and this sucker gets hot fast. I finally matted it earlier for the first time for maybe 3-5 sec. from prob. a 30mph roll, let off and looked at the pyro and it was comming off 1800*!! NOT going to cut it. The nice polished turbine housing and stack now looks to be gold plated rather than chrome. I suppose i will have to get another plate and grind something a lot more conservitve?????? Or does people run thiers near all the way back to keep it managable? The convertor is way to loose, going to have to send it back out and have it tightened up, im not running a tack to know exactly where its stall is but it is way to high. Good think is on this last drive i did finally jump on it that little bit and the timming didnt slip- thanks guys for all the advise i really appreciate the help working the bugs out of this crazy project.

aksparkey01

pull out those full cut dvs for the moment and try running some 181 or 191's. i think that will help more than a plate change.

John_P

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stock600:

Your right buddy, those 1800 degree EGT's are going to cause alot of problems if you don't get it taken care of. I would suggest a water injection system. I have been saying for a LONG time now, I really don't how all the Members here with all three generation type trucks are getting by with the high EGT's and running without any water injection. I know all three generation trucks have them because I see it and the Members tell me they have them! My 1996 has and will get high EGT's if it were not for my water injection. IMHO, the Cummins 12 valve engines are more prone to the higher EGT's because of the "mechanical or fixed" timing.

Anyway, hope you get it under control!

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John_P

stock600

Thanks a bunch for the advise. Sure wished i had a tamer set of DV to try for a test drive i had to send mine back for cores. It could make all the diff. My neibor went for another ride yeasterday with a video camra, we just went up the road for a very short test drive. I told him i would mat it for the count of 5 to make sure he got a shot of the guages, when we went back and looked at the tape, the second i hit it the boost peged at 60 and the pyro nearly bet it there as well! Im not liking this! Remeber the plate is more than half way back and the WG was suppose to be set at 45 per Dave at HTT?? Ive got a Lot of tuning to fiqure out. Any one want to send me some used DV thier not going to use for a test, ill certinly make it right with you. Or any other sugg. - im done running it as it is. Im trying to not hurt it while fiquring out what kind of a tune up to have in it to make a first appearance at a track. Honestly: does any one think their could already be damage from a short time of really hight temps? It runs perfect still and sounds the same but the stack keep its gold color from super high temps, that really ticked me off. Thanks again guys!

John_P

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stock600:

If I had any extra DV's, you would sure be welcome to try them! Maybe one of the other Members here has some extra ones. I would suggest P.M.ing McMopar, (Phil McMaster) as he is in the process of building an engine for his 1st Gen truck. He may be able to help you out stock600.

IMHO,....those high EGT'S aren't good! In addition to the damaging the pistons and rings, they are also hard on the cylinder heads, valves etc. And I would say yes, you could have some problems inside the engine already from the high EGT's. I have never seen a cylinder head come off of a 12 valve Cummins engine that did not have cylinder head "warpage" or valve seats that weren't cracked or damaged in some way, including my own!

I would suggest "taking it easy" until you get the EGT'S more under control.

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John_P

stock600

OH definatly taking it easy matter of fact not even driving it at all the way it is. It also got that hot the second time the timing slipped, it slipped so far it wouldnt idle, i had to feather it home from prob. a 1/2 mile. and the temps were in the 14-16 range, if i had it to do over i wouldnt have driven it. When i pulled up in the shop and it died there were poping sounds all over the engine like everything was cracking- i just quessed at the timing and advanced it 'some' and had it running again in less than 5 min. I let it idle for a couple minutes to circ. cool oil through the turbo and help cool off everything and make me feel better. Then i set it to .201" {17.0*} and fired it up, i had driven it several miles since then and it idles at 300* and cruising down the country roads 50 mph or so it runs around 800 but it wont allow you to pour the fuel to her. Point is its run quite a bit since then and still sounds the same, if that cracking was the seats or the head chances are it would run rough or something be diff. wouldnt yall think? I think i will start by trying to locate or borrow someones DV's and get a water inj. system plumbed in and see where this puts me.????? Could anyone help w/ the DV's

Tate

Try pulling back your AFC. Reset your wastegate lower. You're likely on the ragged edge of the compressor map, so not only are you getting lots of heat of compression, but a lot of heat due to the ineffeciencies of the compressor. Hot air in equals much hotter air out.