Make sure you get the correct fuel shutdown relays to run that solenoid. I didn't and I melted it (another newbie mistake)... I ended up using a hand pull type emergency brake cable from a Dodge D50 to actuate the fuel shut off lever, works great for $10 and some time figuring out how to install it in the cab and run it through the firewall.

 

I robbed the wiring and relays off my 12v. That engine is gonna have the pull cable on it, once it makes it into my old Ford.

The solenoid is all wired in and I've tested it a couple times, works good. Once I get my fuel line back from Scheid's, then I can actually drive it and make sure it doesn't shut down on me.

 

How's your EGT's with your setup? Can you actually get to 4k RPM before pegging the pyro?

Mine is currently AFC spring kit, light spring about 14 clicks back from completley loose, the AFC housing is full forward, #100 plate (roughly centered), RV275's, 4k GSK, 2095 rack plug, 16* timing, AEM intake, 4" exhaust, HTB2 62 w/ 13cm^2 SS, 12V lift pump, F1 helix II and valve springs. I seem to peg the pyro pretty quick as it is, usually around 32-3400RPM. I have a #10 plate on the way, I'm hoping that will help - any advice on tuning to help bring the EGT down?

 

My EGTs are quite a bit hotter with the p-pump than the VP, and I'm hoping thats due to timing, since I'm quite conservative with it until I get the gasket taken care of. I've never taken my truck to 4k yet, lack of better valve springs makes me nervous. On an easy acceleration to around 60km/h (35mph), I can get to 800 degrees. Thats smoke free acceleration. On highway, its anywhere from 750-900, but generally in the 800-850 range. On the WOT runs I've done, I can honestly say I really haven't been watching the pyro. Its either the boost gauge, the tach, the road or the side view mirror. The turbo is wastegated at 45psi, and I get to that at hald throttle. Once I get the gasket done, I plan on going to 16 or 17 degrees and turn the boost up to 50 or 55 and see how it goes.

My order of attack to get the EGT's will be timing first, then better injectors (either F1 or DDP), cam (most likely a Helix2) and twins (K31) in no particular order. I'm gonna be dynoing my truck in a couple weeks, I'll keep my eyese on the pyro then and see what I get to. I'll probably run it to 3200 rpm or so and then call it quits, unless my temps get out of hand.

What hp pump are you running?

 

The Bosch # is 0-402-736-911 or a 180HP pump. I'm going to try the #10 plate tomorrow to see if that helps, I assume it will since there is a defuel ramp that the #100 does not have. Just so I understand, what is/who makes a k31?

I notice mine runs hotter under easy accelaration and down the highway too... Similar #'s to yours... I had advanced the timing last weekend to ~17* (It's off the chart I have for lift pump timing - anyone have a chart that shows the lift spec beyond 16*?) and it didn't really seem to make that much difference in EGT. I think the #100 plate is just too much fuel for what I'm trying to do... Fun though...

I need a clutch too... That's probably my next purchase/project...

Which P7100 are you running? Are your injectors adjusted to work with the P7100? I read a few posts that suggest adjusting the crack or opening pressure of the injector so it is similar to a stock 12V injector, others posts recommend running more timing to account for the delay in fuel delivery. Mine are not adjusted to reflect a 12V crack pressure...

 

I think the k31 is a Garrett charger, but not positive. Its a wastegated turbo off of bigger diesels I believe.

I haven't seen a chart past 16 degrees. I wonder if most people just use the 0.1mm= 0.5 degree. Using that theory, a members truck that we timed today started off at 24 degrees.

I'm running a 215hp (887) pump. The injectors are the same ones that I ran with the VP, never been out of the the head. I've called DDP, said they can make me a set of injectors for the p-pump that are the equivalent to DDP 150's. I'm trying to get a hold of a F1 dealer and see what their's is worth and pick one. Right now I'm leaning to the DDP's for the shear fact that I can get a hold of them.

 

I haven't seen a chart past 16 degrees. I wonder if most people just use the 0.1mm= 0.5 degree. Using that theory, a members truck that we timed today started off at 24 degrees.

[/QUOTE]

That's what I was thinking and how I set mine. Time to go play with the #10 and see how that works out...

 

Do you have any pics of where I might find the ID #'s off my pump? I tried looking and not having much luck. I'm told you need to be a contortionist to be able to read it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Pull the linkage brackets off the side of the pump. Pull it away a couple inches, get a mirror and a flashlight, and there you go. The model number is usually what you need, which will be 0 402 736 XXX.

 

Thanks for the info. Someone was telling me I could identify it without removing anything.

 

I've heard of ID tags being put on the governor inspection cover, but never seen it. I haven't looked at that many pumps though.

 

Since there was some posts of pump info on this thread, can anyone tell me more about these 2 pumps:

Pump 1:
RQV400...1250PA964-2K
CDC NO. 329 1777

908 BOSCH
IND
261 1542
PES 6P 110A 120RS 7213
0402736810

Pump 2:
RQV400...1400PA1211K
393 1600

908 BOSCH
PES6P120A 120RS 7369
0 402 736 887
66200 08567


I will also get one more ID tomorrow from a P7100 from an 8.3 application. I'm looking to find out the power differences/delivery valves. Like was asked above, it anything is worth swapping into my pickup. Thanks.

 

Pump one is an 11mm P7100 pump, not a dodge application. Governs out at 2500 rpm.

Pump two is a 215 dodge pump.

 

Yes I know, but thanks. But can anyone tell me more about the internal specs?
Pump 1 is from a 92 Blue Bird with a 5.9 12v
Pump 2 is from my 96 dually

And compared to a heavy truck application:
Pump 3 Ford L8000
927 BOSCH
46206609
0 402 736 840
PES6P120A120RS7265

Like I said, just wondering if the DV's are any bigger or anything, that it would be worth swapping DV's or the entire pump. Thanks.

 

Go on Comp D and talk to CTDYoungGun. He works for a bosch shop and can give you all the part numbers for the pumps and description there of.