You cant just bolt a 8.3 pump onto a 5.9 because the oil feed and return are different(ask me how I found this out)take care of this minor problem add a 0 plate, 3k GSK and some injectors.........lookout

 

Good to know and if you want to share more details, please do so. Since it's going on to a 24V I wonder how minor this problem with oil ports will be? Just have to mock this up and see I suppose.
Any other differences you can think of?

So assuming the seller started with the 867 pump from an 8.3 do you have some ideas on what would have needed to be changed to set this up as a replacement for a 913 pump?

 

If the P7100 is set up for a automotive B series engine and you have changed to a 12 valve inline pump style front cover, the oil feed and return will be ok. The 215 pumps are starting to get hard to find so it would only make sense to build them outta which you have cheap easy access....assuming you have the tools and knowhow. The difference between the 215, 250, 275 ????? I really dont know for sure

 

Well I'm hoping the inline injection pump manual will help me understand a little more
http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/service/info...ml?bookCatId=0
but that's on backorder . It's possible that the truck will be running before that shows. Who am I kidding? it's always 2x the money and time compared to my initial estimate

Off topic - what is the YJ built for? Rocks, mud, etc...? You've got to have some driveline to run a 455, how's it setup?

 

I use my Jeep to beat around in the woods, I do drive it 2miles to work everyday The drivetrain took about a month to put in and get sorted. The motor is out of a 1970 GTO the trans and transfercase are out of a old GMC pickup and a Dana 44(from a 1977 Bronco)up front and a 8.8(explorer) in the rear. The things great, I love it.....however it can be a handfull. It opens alot of eyes going from stoplight to stoplight.

 

215 hp pump
Did you ever get the problems fixed?

 

Thanks, I found a link on dodgeramtech that showed 215, like the PO said. No, I havent fixed the truck yet. We had a cold winter in NC, I have 3 kids in diapers, and palin just work slow sometimes. I've been driving my gasser, but have finally started to tear into the ram.

 

So, I'm finally getting around to doing the conversion, been sidetracked on other things. The first major issue is that the 867 pump does not have the threaded plugs to bolt up the throttle linkage. Discussed this with the seller and he agreed to send an exchange pump. Got that today. Took the paint off the part # plate and I now have an 0-402-736-838. This one does have the threaded plugs to bolt up the throttle cable bracket so I take that to be a good sign and if anyone happens to know what the 838 pump application is that'd be great so I know what I'm working with. Seems like I should take the advice from earlier in this post and have this one tested for volume delivered to be sure anyway - but just curious if anyone happens to know what application this is?

Thanks

 

838 is a lower HP pump 160-175....still a good pump!!!

 

Another strange one tht I've come across that I'm wondering if anyone knows anything about it.

Found a P7100 on a Mack, driver's side mount, no AFC, the pump # is 0-402-736-212. The governor is an RQV 300-1200 (so 600-2400RPM), I don't recall if it was a K-type governor. The engine tag it calls out the displacement for the motor as 538CID, it's an inline 6. The P7100 pump as a pre-supply pump mounted to the side of the housing. The supply and return fuel lines are on the side of the pump opposite the engine block. I did not find an oil feed line, but it could be there between the block and pump.

I'm curious if it's worth acquiring this one, maybe I could sell it or use the fuel plate or DV's or maybe use the pump (I ended up with a 911 pump for the conversion). Think it's worth spending a little time and $ to pull this?

Thanks

 

If the oil feed boss sticks out further than the automotive b-series pumps, then there will be more grinding than normal. I had to grind the head a bit, and I ended up using a banjo fitting and filing the head down. There is about 3/4" clearance between the oil boss and the head. You need a fitting that goes from 14mm internal threads, do a 90 degree turn and to whatever line you are using (mine was -4 AN).

Are you piecing your swap together, or did you go with a kit?

 

I went with a kit and I have it running (finally) with a 0-402-736-911 pump, I believe that's the 180hp automatic application. I had come across the other pump on that Mack (0-402-736-212) the other day and was just curious if it'd be worth the time to go pull it. I was thinking the fuel plate or the DV's might find there way into the 911 pump that I have if there was an advantage to taking those out of the pump on that Mack? Good info on the oiling though, might be worth grabbing that pump off the Mack for a spare alltogether... I can see that the throttle cable bracket would take some custom fab to make that work if I ever needed to use it though...

As it is I'm using a port on the side of the pump opposite the engine block for the oil feed to the 911 pump. Maybe something is different about the 24V intake plenum compared to a 12V as there was not enough clearance whatsoever to connect the oil line to the side of the pump closest to the engine block, where you normally find the oil feed fitting. The fitting for the oil line that threads into the pump replaced a plug froward and slightly above the timing pin and came with the kit. That fitting included a restriction orifice, I assume to prevent excessive oil flow to the pump.

 

Is this the plug of which you speak? I would have liked to known about that before. Oh well.

You go with Schied's, Haisley's, or some other kit?

 

That's the one. Just swap the plug over to the other side. The -4AN fitting that comes in the kit did have an orifice to limit the oil flow, I didn't measure the diameter. I seem to remember that the port on the engine block side of the pump side has the orifice to limit oil flow in the pump casting, not in the fitting... Check that to be sure though.

I got the kit from Haisley but looking back at it now I question whether that was the best route, not that there was a problem with the kit - it is very complete. I'm thinking that it might have been easier and less expensive to swap a 12V engine in whole... I'm sure that route would have some interesting quirks too...

I haven't sorted out how to make the cruise work, if I read you sig right yours is a '98 24V that you've converted to a p-pump - is that something you've worked with on yours?

 

Sorry, never saw this post earlier. My cruise didn't work properly all the time when it was a VP, so its not something I've played with yet. I'm actually just getting the shut down solenoid installed, after running it without one for nearly 4 months. I've still got the smarty in my ECM for speedo calibration, so I wouldn't dare use the cruise yet, as it usually pins full throttle right away.

I think it would have definitely been cheaper to put a 12v in the truck. I picked up a 94 12v for $1300, and I have about 4k into the pump swap. But not many have a p-pumped 24v, and thats one thing I really like.