I have been working on a 98 12 valve

the mods are
#10 plate
DD2's
ats 3 piece manifolds
PDR hx35 (14 housing)
BHAF
MBRP full 4" back
BD exhaust brake
ATS full tranny
3.54 ratio
timing at 16*


the truck RUNS HOT egt wise

I have done every thing I can think of. I sawped to a 16 housing. I took out the DD2's and put the stock nozzles back in. I have had the plate and afc from all the way back to all the way fwd with both the stock and with the DD2's

The truck pulls a 13K trailer

I would like to know for the guys who pull heavy, where is your plate and what mods do you have?

I have a few thoughts about all the people who say they can tow heavy

1. Your not being honist?
OR
2. You run a manual, and the auto sucks out a but load of power while towing.
OR
3. You have Twins.
OR
4. When you pull a grade you slow way down ( as I do now, cause of Egt)
OR
5. I have magic gremlins in my intercooler that block most of the flow.
OR
6. I have no idea?

can any one lend ideas as to what the problem might be?

Im thinking of making the #10 a 100 and pulling it back to limit the max egt, could my problem be as simple as that? I feel like I am missing a big part of the equation, or that I am making the problem more than it is?

Can any one help?

 

I pull 24k of apples with my 3500 with almost the same mods as you and only get high egts by flooring it on acceleration or the steepest hills when I downshift. My #10 is in the stock position, star wheel and afc housing forward.
My differences from yours besides the manual are a Scotty air filter which bought the egts down 100-150° over a BHAF's hot underhood air.
I also have a 16cm housing on my HX35 and 3k GSK.

Check that your governor arm is adjusted correctly. I've seen some that dive under the plate and have caused piston melting egts with little power improvement.

When I pull 12k with a load of empty apple bins I call it empty and never have high egts, it can be done.

 

What kind of boost numbers are you seeing? Does it have a boost elbow on it, or is the wastegate still fully operational?

 

today I put the #10 full fwd and I could get 35psi out of a pdr hx35-16 non Wg

I guess I fee the way I do because

1. I work with a guy who we put a #10 and 3kgsk's in a 97 3500, 4.10 service truck (10K normal weight) he can easy pull another 7K and not run hot keeping inmind the truck ONLY HAS 3K gsk's and a plate No turbo mods

2.another freind has a 94 and same thing #10 and 3K's pulls Great both 5 speeds both 4.10

neather of the 2 trucks run as hot as the 98 with an auto


the 98 takes 10 min to cool down from 400* to 300*

I thought I might have a bad pyro WRONG put a new one in today same thing I even changed the power source just to make sure?


I did the Gov arm adjustment

the truck idles at 900rpm hot

but takes 10 min to drop past 400*

whaddaya think

 

Ten minutes is way too long to drop 100°.
Wonder if your tranny is running hot thus heating the airflow though the intercooler? Intercooler plugged up with bugs?
On mine it takes way longer to cool down with the A/C on. It also took longer to cool down with the BHAF than it does with a Scotty but nothing like ten minutes.

I'll bet your two friends have stock injectors.

 

Yes they do have stock inj

BUT I changed the dd2' back to stock


I blew out the rad, and intercooler today also

no A/C on, cool day today even took the bahf off sitting still at the shop, same thing


IT MAKES NO SINCE

BTW infidel what gears do you have?

also the ats tranny will run hot if I run out of lock up, lock up it runs less than 100* (guage starts at 100*)

 

Have you checked your inj timing? If it slipped a few deg it will increase the exh temps.

 

I have 3.54
About the only thing left is to check the timing

 

take a look at the exhuast brake too make sure its opened all the way. 10 minutes to cool from 400-300....seems real long to me too. Any chance your brakes are dragging, or your trailer brakes are dragging?

 

Having the a/c or heat on makes it take a lot longer to cool down too, so make sure thats off while cooling down.

Eric

 

do you have a pre turbo pyro or bost? the pre location will show higher temps, but willn't take longer to cool??