bglz42

Update... still no start. <br><br>Here's some new data:<br><br>Cracked the bleed screw on the filter. Bubbles come out, but no fuel. Same at the banjo fitting on the pump. Bubbles, a tiny bit of fuel, then nothing when pumping the plunger. So, no fuel is getting to the filter. <br><br>Possibilbity # 1: cracked fuel return hose was first culprit, but all the pumping/cranking caused the lift pump primer to die.<br><br>Possibility # 2: Rubber fuel inlet line from tank is bad. I've checked it for leaks but found nothing. And boy what a b*tch to get to! The lower clamp is some sort of clamped-on thing, I can't even get it off. Considering bypassing the whole assy right to the steel fuel line on the frame with rubber fuel line. <br><br>BoldtsWagon, where is the plastic tubing? In the tank?<br><br>Any other ideas? Thanks for all the help!<br><br>Jim(I don't want to take it a dealer!!!)

kd460

That clamp is a &quot;crimp on&quot; if we are thinking of the same thing. You look close and you will see a &quot;tab or tag or ear&quot; what ever you want to call it. Take a pair of wire cutters (diagonals) ans snip that tag off. Now the remainder will pull right off, just don't cut your fingers on the sharp edges.<br><br>Replace the feed line with new, but, I found it was easier to pull the tubing down under the vehicle. You should have hard line along the frame rail (from the tank), then a section of braided, then a short section of hard line, then the small 12 inch piece of plain rubber. Pull the line down utilizing the braided section, connect the new rubber hose, then feed it back up into position. Makes it easier to install new hose and clamps. Then make your connections at the top clamps from above. Hope the description makes sense. <br><br>Just a thought, what about putting fuel into the filter by removing the bleed screw/bolt completely and adding fuel in there, put it back on, pump it up and give it a shot? Good luck with it, Kevin D.

JFellman

The plastic tubing is in the tank...there is a spring coil of it in the pick up assembly...keeps the pickup on the tank bottom. I just finished replacing my fuel level sender that is screwed onto that assembly. I lifted the bed off for easy access...not too bad of a job (and mine is a dually). I would suggest lifting your bed off for troubleshooting around the top of the tank and the pickup assembly. If your fuel gauge is not accurate...try just cleaning the contacts on the sensor. I put a new sensor in mine but I cleaned up the old one and it is still good. You could start by disconnecting the fuel line at the top of the tank and putting air pressure through it and also pressurizing it to look for leaks. I wouldn't want to try that without lifting the bed, though.

kd460

John, good I dea about pressure testing the lines! I even thought about replacing (temporary of course) the 12 inch sections of supply and return lines with clear hose to see if it is sucking air. I even thought about using clear on the short 90* section between prefilter and lift pump. <br><br>BGLZ42, you need to rig up something to do a fuel pressure test. This will tell you if lift pump is shot. I think I would try the pressure test of the lines or the clear lines also. Please keep us posted as to what you find. Kevin D.

bglz42

Good info on the &quot;crimp-on&quot;! I'll do it that way... <br><br>I'm sure hoping that I don't have to lift the bed for anything. I'm sort of a one-man show, and have a camper lid to boot!<br><br>I tried pouring diesel into the bleed screw. Filled it up and pumped the plunger. A little came out then nothing. It's like the primer is sucking air. Same when I replaced the bleed screw, then cracked the banjo fitting at the pump. Bubbled a little, dripped a little, then nothing. I'm either sucking air from the rubber hose or the lift pump. The trick is figuring out which one.<br><br>Thanks guys!! This ain't over yet!

bglz42

Found a lift pump locally for $151. I'm going to replace the fuel inlet line first, and see if that cures it. If not, I'll go buy the pump and install it Wednesday... I guess I'm paying for all those years of trouble-free driving. Oh, well... I do love my truck!

bglz42

Next update... replaced inlet (rubber) hose. Still nothing...<br><br>Question... when I pump the plunger (with the bleed screw open), fuel should flow out right? I get a few bubbles (very few) a drop of fuel, then nothing. I'm thinking the primer plunger is not air tight, therefore it doesn't hold vacuum. Does this sound right? <br><br>I'm going to get the lift pump tomorrow...<br><br>Thanks!!!!

bglz42

;D ;D<br><br>It was the lift pump! Replaced it, and away she went...<br><br>My fuel heater was fried. The wires almost melted off. I just clipped the wires, we don't need heaters where I live (Houston).<br><br>BTW: Was not a tough job at all...

kd460

Well, glad to hear it's up and running, I'll remember the symptoms so if mine starts to go, I'll know whats up. Look at the bright side, besides the lift pump, look at all the other stuff you checked out/replaced. Sounds like your fuel system is all set for quite awhile. <br><br>Besides the leaking primer, was their anything visually you could see (after you had it removed) that was wrong with the pump? Thanks, Kevin

Dugggg

This is a great discussion as I am in much the same boat!<br><br>I own a '97 Ram 12-valve TD. I only drive it like once a week. Fortunately, it always seems to start fine the first time, but subsequent starts are more difficult---the shorter the trip, the harder the start.<br><br>My problem does not seem to be related to either engine nor ambient temperature. Starts fine the first time whether it's hot or cold out. But if I start the engine, then immediately turn it off, it takes several minutes before it's willing to restart.<br><br>Doug<br>

bglz42

KD460, nothing visual at all! It looked good and everything appeared fine. The replacement part is MUCH nicer though, bigger more robust looking. The old one was marked AC, the new one CARTER. Looks like a bigger piston, bigger primer. Totally different casting.<br><br>Jim

kd460

Did you get the pump from cummins? If not where and what was the part number and price? <br><br>BTW, anybody still running a catalytic converter, GET RID OF IT, GUT IT, KILL IT, WHATEVER. It will make a big difference in you performance/mileage. Thanks, Kevin.

bglz42

I bought it from United Diesel, it's a Cummins part, # 3936316. Standard part number. I think Cummins just upgraded their supplier.

nivram

is your overflow valve tight? i could smell fuel, but no drips, checked return line, dry,valve was wet, and the culpert.<br>Marv.

RamBob

&gt;GUESS WHAT?!?!?!<br><br>I signed on this afternoon looking to see if someone posted any information about &quot;Exsessive crank time&quot; without startup. I was lucky enought to find this topic! God, I love this site.<br><br>Now to fix the problem. I am having the EXACT same condition with my '95 2500. The only issue is I wouldn't know what a lift pump assembly would look like if you hit me in the head with it (which would probably not be a good thing). Would anyone have a pic or diagram they could post??<br><br>Thanks All.....RB