Hey guys,

Finally got around to ordering my new trans, a DTT fully loaded with billet input output and a triple disc converter. Also had to order a new TC I blew mine up this summer. My question is while the tc and tranny are out is there anything else I should replace or work on? I do plan on replacing the rear main seal, and want to change all of the bearings in my drive shafts. Are there upgraded bearings I can get? Why spend the money on a stock replacement when you could upgrade. That’s what I have all ways bleaved in. any help would be great guys thanks

 

Are you going to mass diesel to get the work done? Scott is really good with these dodge transmissions. He could tell you what youd need (or not) depending on your power level and intended use.
I dont think the billet intermediate and output are needed below 400hp.. might be wrong.
Also the newer triple disc converters can hold more power but they sure arent cheap. I might be upgrading my DTT single disc if I do a trans overhaul in the near future.

 

For u-joints (I'll assume thats what you mean?) tough to beat the Spicers that come in it. I have 200k on mine, all stock in the rear and I had to swap the front on the front shaft 20k ago. Any greasable joint is just junk from my experience on other vehicles.

If you have a hanger bearing for the rear shaft (if it's a 2 piece shaft) some have a special order bearing, bolts to a hanging bracket from above, instead of 2 tabs on either side of the hanger bearing for the bolts. I have the "special" one, it's anywhere from 80-180 bucks, and not stocked anywhere locally. I paid 120 for the last one, it only lasted 40k miles, and blew out bad on last Thursday. In a pinch, I got the normal one. Welded 2 pieces of 1" square tubing spaced out enough to let bolts pass between them, to the bottom of the bracket to make up the difference in height, then bolted the new bearing to that. $30 for the bearing, is normally stocked, and lifetime warranty. Good luck.

 

Ya I’m not going to Scott this time I have been down there before. He is awesome when I get the truck back on the road I might bring it down to him to have him do a final tune on everything. the only reason I went with billet everything is I have the extra cash now and I never want to do this again so also DTT told me to do the triple disk because that is the one that has the lifetime warrantee on it so it seemed worth it total to my house right now with the trans the shipping new flex plate and deep trans pan is 5900.00 so with that price I hope I don’t have to do anything to if for a long time. I have already replaced my carrier baring 20,000 miles ago. the reason I asked if there are better u joints is I do a lot of fourwheelin up at all wheels in Maine there are quite a few mud holes so I was looking for a beefy u joint that is grease able to push out any grit or water. Does that make since? Also I noticed that the yolk on my front diff is really warn and I have blown 2 sets of straps on it does anyone make an upgrade?

 

hey are there any mass diesel clubs???

 

Haha this is as close as I've seen.

 

looks like we might just have to start a mass DTR chapter lmao once the truck I running again I was going to join the MASS Mudders there up in Gloucester but are real active so that should be fun but I don’t know if any of them have diesel's

 

hey just found this www.newenglandturbodieselpower.com might be just what im looking for

 

Good advice here. I put Spicer Life non-greasable joints in everything, just like the ones your 96 came with. They have a much superior seal than greasable joints, which I believe keeps contaminates out, so you don't need to pump in grease to try to flush them out. Just my $.02

 

sweet thanks!!! does anyone know if there is an upgrade for the front yolk so i can stop blowing straps???

 

hey have you guys seen these before
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p73_...olt_style.html they seem like an awsome upgrade and arent that expensive

 

That looks like exactly what you need. I was going to suggest looking at old Fords that had that u-bolt style of yoke but it looks like you found a brand new one. No idea if that is the right one for your application, but I'm sure it's easy to find out.