I just bought a 98 dodge 2500 with the deisel motor. How do I find out if it's the 98.5 motor or not. The sticker in the door jab says production was on 8/97. I'm looking to do some mods to it but unsure what I have. Thanks for your help. Ken

 

Check thte decals on the side of the truck. Also, look at the valve covers...six single covers=12 valve.

 

Easiest is to check the door decas, if it says Cummins Torbo Diesel its a 12 Valve, if it says Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel its a 24V...

 

It's got one single valve cover, So I guess its a 24v and 98.5 Right?

 

Not so fast ,there is a fancy piece of metal that dodge slapped on the top of the 12v engines too.

A 12v looks like this:



And a 24V looks like this (Thanks to M square for the pic):

 

With a build date of 97 , you should definetly have a 12v engine I would think.

 

I stand corrected it's definatally a 12v. I just didn't look at it from the side to notice the piece on top and the smaller valve covers. So this would make it a 98 not a 98.5 right?

 

Correct

You bought a GOOD engine, instead of a good engine

Chris

 

Let the BOMBing begin!

that truck will not stay stock for long, its amazing what a GSK and fuel plate can do for one of these trucks..

Rick

 

What exactly is that (gsk and fuel plate)? I've been an f-body (camoro/firebird) man for 10 years now and have no experience with deisel motors.

 

A GSK is a goveroner spring kit, available in 3000 RPM and 4000 RPM kits (4000rpm kits require new valve springs) They will move the stock de-fuel point (usually around 2300-2500 RPM) farther up , so you will have full power , at higher RPM's.

A fuel plate is a curved/angled stop for the fuel rack control , it limits fuel delivery at certain RPMs , They are available in many different styles , the most popular being #10 , and #100.

You can see the stock fuel plate in this picture:



And #'s 10 and 100 are pictured here:



You can purchase the plates , or as I did , grind your own.

I hope this helps!

 

Thanks . So I can just take off the plate and grind away to match something similar to what you have drawed up and that will give me more power. Also where is this plate at. Can I see it just buy standing in front of the truck? Also where can I purchase a spring kit at?

 

THIS is just to get a little more power out of your ram. You can do serveral things, i see you are getting gauges, and you have an air intake on the way. which is good. Now this is an into to the main power source of the ram, Your P7100 Pump, and what you can tweak on it for more power. You can also time it, but thats advanced, well at least for me... use this as an intro more than anything.. I tried my best to explain it....


to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates....

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto.....if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Waste gate, if i was good with pictures id put one up for you, but im sure you know what the wastegate looks like, that head looking deal, it is usually hooked to a rubber or similar airline, you want a little more boost? You can get a longer hose or pinch it up, There is a thread, i dont member where tho, where it shows someone improperly blocking the wastgate with a screw.... Well that aint good.. Anyways

Also make sure you get the KDP done on that truck as well... Not hard to do, look in my previous posts, KDP Report Using TST kit, or somethin similar to that......

PS this is cut and paste of other posts, sorry if its redundant....

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

 

Ya beat me to it Rick!

 

What is the "KDP"

All these abbreviations are killing me....