I've done a search and feel pretty sure the overflow is my main problem. I found a diagram showing where it was at and found a place to buy...think it was a guy named Marty. How hard is it to change out...any special steps involved? Even if this doesnt fix the problem...its cheaper than a lift pump I'm sure.Thanks,Chuck

problems...
1. hard to start-sometimes
2. wont rev up...pops,cuts out at high prms
3. just started this the other week-wouldn't start,then started like nothing was wrong(has happened a couple times)

 

The overflow valve is pretty easy to change out. 5 minutes, 1 wrench if you are careful and there is enough room to get it out of there. Don't bend the fuel line to get it out. There should be a notch cut in the side of the motor to let you get it out. You may have to widen it some.

Something else to think about. . . have you ever replaced the fuel lines? If not, those could be the cause of your problem. They all need replaced eventually.

 

the return line was replaced(the rubber one)...Thanks,Chuck

 

If you can, check ALL the fuel lines before you start throwing money at it. You can have a leak in any line, not see any fuel drips, and get a hard start condition. When you pull the overflow out make sure you put something under the assy while unscrewing. You don't want to lose anything down in back of the IP (can't get it out). Watch out for the washers. You will need them on reinstall of new valve. Once the old is out, take it apart and check spring length on it. Should be exactly .5 inches. It can be streched and then keep the old valve for emergency. Have you checked your fuel filter and the pre filter screen? With popping and sometimes does it and sometimes not I am leery of changing anything until I know fuel getting to engine is clean and not restricted.

 

I bought the truck in Nov.06 w/194,800-it now has 204,700 and has a new fuel filter...dont know about a pre-filter screen. Where is that? You mean replace all the rubber fuel lines(from tank to engine?)Thanks,Chuck

 

The prescreen is on the bottom of the fuel heater, to the left of the LP if looking from the drivers side fenderwell. The whole bottom unscrews and the prefilter will be inside.
To get the OFV out you will most likely need to grind a small amount of material off of the head adjacent to the OFV.

 

thanks TheBigNasty, I guess I need to change that as well. If I can get this sputtering problem fixed, I will then move on to boosting the fuel a little w/ afuel plate. Just want all this right before I go and do anything. Seems like the right thing to do,Chuck

 

Blazinchuck, hang in there. Your getting good advice. Sounds like you just need to learn your way around the engine. Pick up a repair manual A factory service manual would be great but can be kind of pricey. A Haynes manual would be a good one to start with. It will show you around the engine.

There is a diagram floating around this website and at dodgeram.org That is a good reference website as well. I think infidel has a pic of an engine diagram in his photo album. It will show the location of key items.

If your return line was bad, then your feed line is probably due as well. The prescreen (prefilter) can be replaced, and in most cases, just removed, cleaned and reinstalled. The overflow valve can be tricky to remove as mentioned. If you have a dremel tool (or borrow one) and get a grinding stone for it, the recess that was mentioned earlier could stand a little trimming. If not for anything other than making removal of the overflow a little easier. The pocket or recess is a little tight, and making it larger can help. Like mentioned, don't bend the fuel line. Loosen it at the other connection point so you can get the overflow valve out.

Also be aware, when ever you open up the fuel system, you lose prime. It is not a good idea to crank the starter to reprime. . It can easily overheat the starter. There is a primer bulb on the lift pump to help you reprime the system.

The overflow valve can be purchased from Marty Tompkins of Precision Diesel in Michigan. A search here should give you his number. He also has a good price on a lift pump if you end up needing one. Good luck with it. KD

 

thanks kd460, not going anywhere-this is good stuff I need! I do have the tools for grinding the recess bigger. I have had to use the plunger(lift pump) before, when I changed the fuel filter.
He was the guy I was thinking about earlier, did a search and found his info...gonna order the OV from him next week, I'll get the pre-filter as well. The local Cummins place has the OV for around $120-ouch!! Hope the info keeps rolling in,I wanna learn so much more on these,Chuck

 

hey I just checked the book I forgot I had bought and placed under the seat(go figure)-it's a Hanes 94-2001. It shows how to pinch off the return line and compare readings on a fuel gauge. I guess all of this would be easier to figure out if I had one. Is there a port already on the fuel system to screw a fuel gauge into, or do ya drill/tap for a 1/8 npt for a fuel gauge(on the banjo bolt)? I have a new fuel gauge, but it's for carbs and doesn't go high enough(it just gave me the idea). Does anyone buy one and screw it into the top of that banjo bolt and leave it there or run a line into the cab for easier monitoring? After all this talking, I think I should look into a fuel pressure gauge set up 1st...any thoughts?Chuck

 

A gauge is a "nice to have" for our year truck but not needed like later models. A maint gauge would make more sense and I plan on getting one myself. I would have to research but I think Geno's Garage has one they sell. Use it to check pressure when a problem is suspected. It bolts into a 10mm plug found on top of the fuel filter, if I remember right. A repair manual makes a haynes look like a comic book. The haynes does have a good write up on dash removal though. That's another problem I am looking forward to! Bye the bye, does "some goodies on the way" include gauges? You need an EGT ,at the minimum, before you start fueling it up!

 

Should the overflow valve be considered a normal maintenance item? My '95 truck has over 200,000 miles on it - should I change the valve just to be safe?

How would I know it's bad (without checking fuel pressure - that too much trouble).

 

Yes, I plan to run gauges. I wont make any mods without them 1st.Chuck

 

My experience is the OF valve is the single most common part that wears out on a 12 valve. Effects of a bad one creep up slowly so you don't notice it much and it rarely causes a no start. I usually tell people who don't have the setup for a fuel pressure gauge to just replace the valve and keep the old one for a backup.

Have read that the old OF valve can be used for a pressure gauge port by removing the top. Never tried it myself since drilling and tapping is so easy but am certain that the threads aren't correct.