First, is the miller gear puller needed? I have several, or can I use a standard auto parts store gear puller? They are out of the gear puller till late Feb (05) . Thats why I ask.

Second, #6843 1 tip, (dial indicator) = $10.81 is that only a tip? or is it a special tip to fit the delivery valve? I have several dial indicators....wasn t planning on buy one. Likewise do I need the #6842 1 adapter (dial indicator) for $34.09.......what is the adapter? an extention? or is it special for the delivery valve?

Third, #6862.....1 brg./thrust wa. ? Is it needed? The only thing I can think of is the gear puller, but if I can use a different gear puller thenI don t need the 6862 for thier $12.56

This is the run down....just for information.

delivery valve socket #6840 = 44.50
dial ind adapter #6842 = 34.09
dial ind tip # 6843= 10.81
brg./thrust wa # 6862= 12.56
gear puller L-4407a = 39.87


Any better deals out there? I think all I really need is a delivery valve socket.......maybe the adapter.......

 

Definitely get the delivery valve socket holder. Don't substitute with anything else. The dial indicator adapter is also a very good idea. You can always try and hooch something up but you're looking at small milimeter changes per degree when setting these. Now it's not rocket science but it's better to be "precise" than "close enough". You'll want to make sure the the diameter of the holder matches the dial indicator you have. They do come in different sizes. Give me a PM as I've got an extra socket I'd let you have for a lot less than $44.50. You really don't need the thrust bearing if you're careful and not too "ham handed". You should be able to find a suitable gear puller to use as well.

Paul

 

I just did my timing & I bought a Snapon spline socket p/n SP503 for the delivery valve. it was $36.00 and the engine barring tool for $49.40

While some say that the barring tool isn't really necessary; I found it real nice to be able to turn the engine in either direction and to keep the engine from turning when torqueing bolts.

I made my dial indicator mount using a 22mm x 1.5 pitch drain plug I got the idea from a gentleman on this site couldn't find the thread to give him credit. He used a Cummins style drain plug and a thick plastic washer that he had cut a 1/4 inch wide cross-section from to allow him to install a setscrew.

The plug I used had the raised 4 sided wrenching flats I had to drill a 3/8 hole down through it and installed a #10 setscrew in one of the flats. it was $4.00 vs $12.00 for cummins style.

My dial indicator was a 1" range by .001. I converted the mm degree settings to .001inch from 11mm to 18mm prior to starting for reference. had to make a 1.25" extension for my D.I. it was a 4x48 thread.

I used the timing chart that is on the Piers site just had to lookup my CPL to find out the specs to use.

I found that the timing gear was on real tight and it all popped loose at once, be sure to use a magnet on the gear shaft to keep from loosing the timming gear nut and washer.

A 2 bolt steering wheel type puller is what you need to pull the gear. the bolts need top be 8mm x 1.25 x about 2 1/2" long

 

that is great information. I printed that. I do have a question though....how is the dial indicator mount (modded drain plug) used ? I don t think Ill have too, if my magnetic base can find a decent place, but you never know.....and some other people might find it useful too.

 

Did you just take a 4x48 screw and screw it in there for the extension? I don't have a dial indicator yet, but I know I will need an extension for it.

 

See the pics in my gallery. Send the royalties directly to me. I take cash or certified money order. A simple harmonic balancer puller will work on the gear. Use a magnet just below the nut on the gear. If the washer or nut falls, your in deep doo doo. Good luck. KD

 

I used kd460 oil drain plug method as the adaptor. Works great!

The only other tools I purchased, since it's very specific is the Barring Tool (OTC 7471A) and the Delivery Valve (Snap-On SP503).

I used a generic dial indicator and gear puller.

I did have the front cover out to do the KPD so I didn't have to worry about the nut or washer dropping but you might want to address that with a pen magnet.

 

Is there any advantage to setting the timing with the cover off? i was going to do it the same time as my KDP.

 

Third, #6862.....1 brg./thrust wa. ? Is it, I was told that the thrust washer can come apart and down in the timing gear cover the little bearing go.
Make sure to use the correct cpl number. My 95 has two different numbers and you can have a lot of timing if not checking.
I bought the kit for snap on, my brother bought his in a pawn shop , same kits . The idea of using the drop valve method is the way I like to go to find TDC . good luck Jim

 

The two people I know who have tried to use a magnetic base on their indicator had to do it over the recommended way. You're talking very small numbers, too easy for the base to move.

About the only thing that's easier with the cover off is cleaning the gear and shaft clean enough to eat off.

 

The drain plug gets modded per the instructions just below each pic in my gallery.






Just like the timing instructions in Haynes or on dodgeram.org, you have to remove the forward most fuel injector line.

You may need a washer or a shim, but, you simply thread the drain plug into the delivery valve hole (the shim or spacer is so you can get it tight enough to avoid any rocking of the drain plug in the threads, but I did not have that problem). Just don't thread the drain plug down to far as the pluger inside the pump/DV goes up and down. You don't want it to hit anything.

Slide your gauge into the centered hole you drilled into the drain plug, adjust your gauge according to timing instructions making contact with the plunger, then tighten the set screw in the side of the drain plug to hold the gauge at the desired position (don't crush your gauge). Then adjust the dial again per any of the timing instructions and your good to go.

Using the rain plug does not change the instructions at all. It is just an inexpensive sustitute for the miller, spx, or snap on tool. It saves you some $$ and eliminates the need for an extension or gauge spacer.

Hope that helps, KD

 

Very nice! [clap]

 

Hey you got that dial indicator from Harbor Freight. I just picked up the exact same one.

 

Yep, works perfect. No extension needed. Part number is listed under the pics posted on "my pictures". I think I spent a whopping ten bucks for it.

So $10 for a gauge, 30 for a DV socket, 10 for a puller, r for a drain plug and another 40 for a barring tool which makes life easier but not absolutely necessary. 55 to 95 bucks, not bad.

Someone here posted that he had a father in law who was a machinist check out the gauge and gave it a thumbs up. I'm sure it's not gonna last forever in production work, but for my needs, it's fine. KD