limited slip Dana 80 not working
#2
Registered User
First thing, drain the fluid, refill it, and put TWO bottles of limited slip additive from the dealer in there. It's not very expensive, and that way you'll know you're getting the right additive. This alone might fix it.
#3
Originally Posted by 94 dodge
I have a 94 dodge 5 speed with the dana 80 and only one tire is spinning. what do i have to do to fix this.
Have you verified that it is indeed a limited slip?? If not I would start there first. Goodluck,,Rick
#6
No need to do that, call the dealer yourself. As well, there is a tag on the diff cover that will have a bunch of numbers on it. With those numbers, a good drive shop will be able to tell you. On my truck, my tag says it is an open, the dealer says it is a LS. It has been replaced anyway.
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#8
Registered User
First thing, drain the fluid, refill it, and put TWO bottles of limited slip additive from the dealer in there. It's not very expensive, and that way you'll know you're getting the right additive. This alone might fix it.
Too much limited slip additive will make the limited slip clutches just slip. Best to start out with no additive, do some figure 8s and if it's noisy on turns add the additive a quarter bottle at a time till the noise stops.
#9
Registered User
Originally Posted by kandgo
Have you verified that it is indeed a limited slip?? If not I would start there first. Goodluck,,Rick
Good starter
ID request a bulid sheet for the truck at the dealership. It will tell you what it has..
Tx
#10
The pin # is 1B7KF26C4RS564899
the truck has 105000 miles on it. I have not checked if it is a Limited slip or not.
Should I first drain and refill the fluid before I put an additive in? what typed of noises should I hear when I turn.
When I turn sharp, it feels like both tires are grapping.
the truck has 105000 miles on it. I have not checked if it is a Limited slip or not.
Should I first drain and refill the fluid before I put an additive in? what typed of noises should I hear when I turn.
When I turn sharp, it feels like both tires are grapping.
#11
Registered User
Drain and refill without additive. Do the figure 8s.
The noise will be the tire in the direction of the turn burning rubber or the differential chattering. It's usually very obvious with the window down. Add additive a quarter bottle at a time till the noise stops.
The noise will be the tire in the direction of the turn burning rubber or the differential chattering. It's usually very obvious with the window down. Add additive a quarter bottle at a time till the noise stops.
#12
I changed my differential fluid yesterday and WOW it looked like Peanut Butter... i was pretty scared when i seen that but i sparyed i think 7 cans of break clean in there and filled it with some Posi Additive.. Its sorta noisy now. I used 80w-90 fluid. The axle is a Dana 70 with a limited slip. Should i of used thicker fluid or what?
#13
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Originally Posted by infidel
This is the opposite of what you should do and might be the only problem.
Too much limited slip additive will make the limited slip clutches just slip. Best to start out with no additive, do some figure 8s and if it's noisy on turns add the additive a quarter bottle at a time till the noise stops.
Too much limited slip additive will make the limited slip clutches just slip. Best to start out with no additive, do some figure 8s and if it's noisy on turns add the additive a quarter bottle at a time till the noise stops.
Add the additive and if the clutches are glazed over, this will "Break the glaze" off and your diff should come alive if it is indeed a LS. Give it about 200-300 miles and then change fluid and re-add the LS additive again and you'll be in good shape.
#14
Registered User
Originally Posted by JAX
No offense inifidel, but this is the wrong thing to do. The additive is designed to keep the clutch plates from glazing up. If the clutch plates glaze over, then your LS will not work at all, it will act as an open diff because the clutches will constantly slip. If it is a gear type LS (like a Detroit True-Trac) then no additive is neccessary, but with clutch type you need it.
Add the additive and if the clutches are glazed over, this will "Break the glaze" off and your diff should come alive if it is indeed a LS. Give it about 200-300 miles and then change fluid and re-add the LS additive again and you'll be in good shape.
Add the additive and if the clutches are glazed over, this will "Break the glaze" off and your diff should come alive if it is indeed a LS. Give it about 200-300 miles and then change fluid and re-add the LS additive again and you'll be in good shape.
That is why you add it a little at a time, then test, not go for a thousand mile drive.
By far the reason I've run into for no LS is too much additive.
#15
Originally Posted by JAX
No offense inifidel, but this is the wrong thing to do. The additive is designed to keep the clutch plates from glazing up. If the clutch plates glaze over, then your LS will not work at all, it will act as an open diff because the clutches will constantly slip. If it is a gear type LS (like a Detroit True-Trac) then no additive is neccessary, but with clutch type you need it.
Add the additive and if the clutches are glazed over, this will "Break the glaze" off and your diff should come alive if it is indeed a LS. Give it about 200-300 miles and then change fluid and re-add the LS additive again and you'll be in good shape.
Infidel quote
Sure you are right but too much additive by adding more aimlessly causes the same thing, no LS. Under a microscope the additive looks just like a tadpole, the "head" embeds in the clutch material and the "tail" causes the clutches to slip till heat and pressure causes the head to be "ripped" out of the clutch by the tail allowing it to grip.
That is why you add it a little at a time, then test, not go for a thousand mile drive.
By far the reason I've run into for no LS is too much additive.
{{{{{Your both beating on the same horse, just a different whip. The tolerences of the clutch plates will determine the additive, and I would have to go with Infidel on when to add, try it without and go from there and see if it needs additive at all. As the mistake of saying it needs it right off the get go is assuming info that is not known at the time. Goodluck,,Rick}}}}
No offense inifidel, but this is the wrong thing to do. The additive is designed to keep the clutch plates from glazing up. If the clutch plates glaze over, then your LS will not work at all, it will act as an open diff because the clutches will constantly slip. If it is a gear type LS (like a Detroit True-Trac) then no additive is neccessary, but with clutch type you need it.
Add the additive and if the clutches are glazed over, this will "Break the glaze" off and your diff should come alive if it is indeed a LS. Give it about 200-300 miles and then change fluid and re-add the LS additive again and you'll be in good shape.
Infidel quote
Sure you are right but too much additive by adding more aimlessly causes the same thing, no LS. Under a microscope the additive looks just like a tadpole, the "head" embeds in the clutch material and the "tail" causes the clutches to slip till heat and pressure causes the head to be "ripped" out of the clutch by the tail allowing it to grip.
That is why you add it a little at a time, then test, not go for a thousand mile drive.
By far the reason I've run into for no LS is too much additive.
{{{{{Your both beating on the same horse, just a different whip. The tolerences of the clutch plates will determine the additive, and I would have to go with Infidel on when to add, try it without and go from there and see if it needs additive at all. As the mistake of saying it needs it right off the get go is assuming info that is not known at the time. Goodluck,,Rick}}}}