mainer

need to borrow a kdp jig kit... i've got 2 of my own trucks that need to be done.


i'll pay shipping... let me know

i'm located on the maine new hampshire border so if there is anyone nearby with a jig kit that would be awesome.

infidel

I have a jig I used to loan out but postage on it is about $25 each way.
Much cheaper to buy a jig from Harold at rvhvnfn@juno.com or 208 850-8749

Dave88LX

Man I hate to see what shipping service you use!

Forrest Nearing

much cheaper to just tab it... and much safer because you can retorque your timing case bolts! if a timing case bolt backs out and falls into the timing gears, you're gonna have all kinds of headache!

mainer

ya.... and i should prolly tear apart my entire motor too and make sure none of those bolts have come loose, retorque all of them....


just wanna jig it and get it done with, no need to pull the cover as the crank seal isnt leaking. and timing bolts coming loose are a lot more rare than the kdp.

infidel

If you buy a jig from Harold it's still cheaper than tabbing- assuming you replace the seal and gasket. Harold wants $30 for a basic jig and includes shipping. With the jig you can use it over and over on other trucks or even resell it. More money saved.

My jig is what I call NASA grade, a heavy duty CNC unit that has done over 100 fixes, comes with fan wrenches and weighs over 20 pounds. That's why it hasn't been worth shipping around since Harold started selling them.

Whatever method you choose to use just make sure you do it.
Not doing so could get very expensive.

Bersaglieri

Mainer did you ever end up getting this done? Any if you did mine if I rent yours I'm in Manchester, NH.

-Dustin-

turfguy

you know I heard of a few guys go the really cheap route-they take the fan & shroud off, drill a hole in the timing cover where the KDP is located. Next you use a punch & pound the dowel back in. Then center punch around the hole to dimple the block a bit into the hole so it holds the dowel in. Then jb weld over the hole you drilled in the timing cover, & be on your way. I guess it depends if you have any qualms doing it that way.

CC149

I admit I am brand new here but I just had a thought. Would it be possible to drill and tap the hole you use to drive the pin back in? Use a long enough bolt to hold the pin in and have a gasket on it to stop an oil leak? Like I said I am very new here and this may not be possible I do not know. Just a thought when I saw the reply about driving the pin back in and JBWelding the hole up.

Jim

infidel

You would have to be a very good shot to hit in the right place and would have to remove the coolers and radiator to have enough room to work. If you're going to take it that far just tab it.

Drilling from the side is much easier.

Here's what an installed jig blocking bolt looks like.

DirtyMJ

What all is a jig? Can I guy who's handy with an air drill just blow a hole through the timing housing like in that picture, tap it, and run a bolt in?

Or is there not enough clearance to do that?

turfguy

yep you could (I was tempted to do that myself). The only thing the jig does is give you a bushing to use to guide your drill bit at the exact spot over the dowel location. If you look at enough pictures, you can get pretty close to where you need to be. I'd put grease in the drill bit flutes, or use a vacuum hose to catch all the shavings from going into your timing case.....

infidel

Besides guiding the bit a jig comes with a countersink bit, the bolt has to be flush with the case or it will hit the fan bearing housing.

Also the bit, tap and countersink are on 12" shafts so that the drill can clear the engine (as below). Otherwise you would be drilling/tapping at a way off angle. Buying a long bit is no problem but by the time you weld the countersink and tap to a long shaft you just as well could have bought an entire jig kit.

The way to keep chips out of your engine is to duct tape a vacuum cleaner hose on blow to the oil fill and block the blowby tube. You can also use an air compressor in the same manner, just keep the pressure below 5 psi.

CC149

Maybe use a template and a right angle drill? Believe me, I am just guessing here and trying to think outside the box, so to speak. Just an idea is all.

Jim

infidel

As you can see in the picture above the bolt hole is very close to the block, not even enough room for a chuck without making the hole at the wrong angle.