Cougsfan

Today I installed my KDP stop, 3000 RPM GSK, and ground my fuel plate to a #10 profile. It took most of the day, but a If I had to do it again, it would only take maybe four hours total. With hindsight it wasn't that bad, although I was very apprehensive during the time I was actually doing it, 'cause I had the sinking feeling that didn't know what I was doing as often as not. I just knew I'd do something stupid and my truck would never run again. That fear slows you down!

Several things to pass on that might help others in the future who might do a search on these subjects.
1) I have a motorcycle repair stand that is a platform about 3' wide, 8 feet long and 20 " high. I parked the truck right up next to it and stood on it. Unless you are 7' tall, this made access over the hood so much easier. Probably a 12" high stand would be better for working on the truck, but 20" is perfect for working on bikes, and it is what I had handy.

2) The instructions for installing the GSK from Piers are incredibly poor. The pictures are unreadable. Seems inexcusable when you pay $100, for a just a few springs. You'd think they could at least provide decent instructions for that kind of money.
Fortunately, The past posts in this forum pulled me through just fine from an instructional standpoint. Thanks to you all!

3) One thing I really fretted about was removing the keepers for the GSK springs. I looked for a detailed post about that, but couldn't find one. Several people asked how do you remove them, but I never came across a clear answer. I pictured it to be like a valve spring with keepers, or a pin through the stud. Both of which would be impossible in the cramped quarters.
But the keepers just screw on to the stud. You can use needle nose pliers to stick in the grooves to unscrew them. They come off easy. I spent far more time searching posts than required on how to do that simple task.

4) I removed the brake master cylinder for access to the governor springs. It is easy to do. I learned on this forum to do that to change the fuel filter earlier.

5) Their is some safety wire in front of then governor spring cover, probably installed at the factory to tell them who has messed with things. I just cut it.
Their is also a linkage stop device that had to be removed, which is not mentioned by anyone anywhere.

6) I spent a lot of time worrying about that silly tamper proof screw on top of the AFC. It was easy to deal with. I simply smashed a groove in it with a chissel, then took it off with a screw driver.

7) Grinding the fuel plate was pretty easy. I just used a bench grinder and finish touched it up with a dremmel grinder. Looks just like a #10, if you squint your eyes just right. Actually it looked pretty good.

8) Who would like to join me in crucifying the engineer who put the one screw for the fan mount behind the pulley? I had to grind down my good box end 10 mm wrench to get it in the gap to remove it.

The truck runs great! I can certainly feel the extra punch. The true test comes when I hook my trailer up and tow it. (with my luck I will probably blow the tranny now. That is my next big project)

Tomorrow I install the EGT, Boost and fuel pressure gauges. I got them from Ken's Performance Solutions. Talk about a guy who provides service! He called be on Sunday to take care of ordering details after I ordered them on line on a Saturday night. I had the gauges by Tuesday. He contacted me today just follow up to see if everything went OK. His prices are competitive too.

Drilling & tapping the hole in the exhaust manifold is tomorrow's chore that has me fretting! Think I will try the doing it with the truck running routine.

Again, Thanks to everyone for letting me know what to do, and how to do it.

toy4xchris

the way i get to the bolt behind the fan pulley is the six 10mm bolts that actually hold the pulley on you pull off those and a slide the pulley forward and it is easier to get to it I hope that can help some one.

Box5

yea, i realized the gsk is somthing that seems tricky and confusing before u've done it, but once u get going u realize it's a pretty simple job but takes a steady hand at times. I got my gsk through city diesel and the instructions were ok, pictures could have been WAY better, but they were enough to be clear once u got going.

dieselfuelonly

Thanks for the overview of your work. I've already done my KDP but I plan on doing a #10 plate and the 3kGSK soon. Do you have the plate full foward, in the stock position, or what?

When you get your gauges on, do you mind telling me how the EGTs are when you tow?

Thanks!

DFO

513yj

[QUOTE=Cougsfan;1634185]


Their is also a linkage stop device that had to be removed, which is not mentioned by anyone anywhere.
i posted up on that in the "free gsk for the p pump bunch thread" it is in the perf. and acc. part here. took me less than an hour to do the washer mod through the side. and getting a grade 8 washer to fit took the longest.