KDP got me, where to buy new timing case??
#1
KDP got me, where to buy new timing case??
well I found a crack in my timing case while installing a new timing cover gasket, now the ? is where do I get a new one??? there's a Cummins dealer a few miles from here I'll try them tomorrow, but if no luck where's the best place/price on a new case??? also next ? does the cam have to be pulled???? it looks as though all the gears are keyed, but I've been told you have to pull the whole cam to replace the case????? are there any other heads ups I should know about, & does anybody have a parts list of new stuff I should go ahead & get while ordering from Cummins????? & is there anything else I should consider doing preventative maint. or otherwise while I already have the truck torn down this far???? thanks for the replies, Dusty
#2
You either have to pull the cam or get the gear off it. I know some people use heat to remove the cam gear, but I've heard some say it's a pain to put it back on and it's easy to knock the plug out of the back of the block.
It's a big job to remove the cam, but it's not particularly difficult. I pulled my case off to fix an oil leak. Depending on your mileage, you might replace the water pump and thermostat since your in there. Loctite all the case bolts. With the case off, it's easy to pull the injection pump if you want to have it calibrated/serviced. And if you take the injection pump out it's easy to get to the lift pump if you want to replace it. Also, if the injection pump comes out you can take a good look at your tappet cover to see the gasket needs to be replaced.
At a minimum, you'll need a new gasket for the case, gasket for the cover, crank seal, o-ring seal for the injection pump, and gasket for vacuum pump.
Have fun!
-john
It's a big job to remove the cam, but it's not particularly difficult. I pulled my case off to fix an oil leak. Depending on your mileage, you might replace the water pump and thermostat since your in there. Loctite all the case bolts. With the case off, it's easy to pull the injection pump if you want to have it calibrated/serviced. And if you take the injection pump out it's easy to get to the lift pump if you want to replace it. Also, if the injection pump comes out you can take a good look at your tappet cover to see the gasket needs to be replaced.
At a minimum, you'll need a new gasket for the case, gasket for the cover, crank seal, o-ring seal for the injection pump, and gasket for vacuum pump.
Have fun!
-john
#4
Lots of fun! To get the cam out, you have to pull the intercooler, radiator, lift pump, rocker stands, the A/C condenser, and front bumper. Use some 1/2 dowel rods and rubber bands to keep the lifters pulled away from the cam.
Cummins service center will be the cheapest place to get the housing, unless you find a good used one.
Cummins service center will be the cheapest place to get the housing, unless you find a good used one.
#5
Dusty i got mine from a kenworth shop not to far from my house it was like $208 or something like that i think right around 300 for gaskets and everything. I would pull the cam. I pulled my gear out and it is a pain to get back on and i knocked the plug lose it still leaks some. SO just call around on the cover should be able to find it pretty resonable.
#6
the KW shop here priced me one for $265, but they have it in stock so I guess I'll go ahead & pick it up, that way I can start getting it back together, I'll let ya know how it goes, Dusty
#7
I have heard of a few guys that fixed a cracked timing case by just pulling the timing cover, filling the crack with JB Weld, fishing out the old KDP, and reinstalling the timing gear cover. Really all we are after here is inspecting for damage, getting the foreign parts out, and fixing the oil leak right?
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
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#8
Originally Posted by Geico266
I have heard of a few guys that fixed a cracked timing case by just pulling the timing cover, filling the crack with JB Weld, fishing out the old KDP, and reinstalling the timing gear cover. Really all we are after here is inspecting for damage, getting the foreign parts out, and fixing the oil leak right?
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
#9
got the whole dang front end torn apart on my truck right now, puttin the wooden dowels on the lifters so I can pull the cam tomorrow, gonna pick up a new timing case in the morning, & a few gaskets & such, got the dowels fixed on 4 cyl's & now I can't get the dang wipers off to get the plastic cover off the cowl so I can get the last 4 push rods out & the dowels in, any ideas?????? thanks, Dusty
#10
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Do you really think that is a good fix? I say procrastination caused the problem...you might as well bite the bullet and fix it right.
#12
Originally Posted by Geico266
Make sure you put a new dowel pin in and ...Oh yea... stake it in the hole.
Wicking (green) loctite (if ya got it) works good as well.
#13
I still say write something appropriate in permanent marker on the inside of the new case.
Only you'll know what it says, and it'll make you smile every time you think about the message in the bottle (engine).
At least it'll take a little of the sting out of the repair.
Jimmy
Only you'll know what it says, and it'll make you smile every time you think about the message in the bottle (engine).
At least it'll take a little of the sting out of the repair.
Jimmy
#15
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Do you really think that is a good fix? I say procrastination caused the problem...you might as well bite the bullet and fix it right.
I just hope this is a warning to others out there with untabbed 12V's! Those guys with the "it can't happen to me" syndrome! Blows my mind that someone can be involved in this forum for a year, know about this issue and do nothing about it! I fixed mine within a month of being aware and found the pin almost ready to fall out when the cover was removed. In fact, I removed it with my fingers.
If you haven't fixed it yet, FIX IT! and save all the trouble and expense poor Dusty is going through.