jester0401

Hi all,
First post
Great forum

The story
Just bought a 1997 dodge 12v 4x4 5-speed with 98K miles for 11,000. I am picking it up on Wednesday after noon to take it home. It has a lift kit, K&N intake system, at least a 4" exhaust system maybe more, don’t know what else beyond that. A new starter has been put on recently and a new passenger side front knuckle. I know it needs at least 1 steering tie Rod bushing. It has a problem with the starting solenoid not opening so the truck wont start with out a jerry rigged setup (a wire set up to the solenoid to open it to start). There is evidence of an oil leak on the front crank housing, don’t know where from yet. The clutch seems to work well.

The Plan
To do the KDP (TST) if it is not all ready done, to either buy or grind the fuel plate to a #10 or #100 haven’t decided. I am planning on just going to a 280 hp and 685 lb-ft as recommended by TST as to not have clutch slippage begin, tell I get some money for a new better clutch. I will buy gauges as soon as I find a place that has a good price and that would include pyro, boost to 60psi and a FP up to 30? (I can’t find a place that sells over 30 is that enough) I was thinking TST for the gauges but they only sell pyro boost and Tran’s temp maybe I can’t call and get it with FP?

The ?s
How do I find out if I have the KDP upgrade all ready done?

I have read on the TST web site that if you have a 97 ca truck that you cant get the TST power kit "NOT sold for use on EGR equipped 1996 and later California Diesels." From TST web site. Is there a way to get around this, like take off the EGR if that is the restriction reason?

Things that I need to look for on the truck as it is new to me?
Any other things?

Sorry for the long post
Thanks a lot

-Jesse

JonnysDodge

I found some great guages from AutoMeter on Amazon for a great price. You might look there, as for the other stuff, more guys will chime in and lead you in the right direction. At least they did for me. Have fun and welcome.

infidel

Your FP gauge will need to be at least 40 psi, preferably 60 psi.

Only way to know if the KDP has been taken care of is to at least remove the fan bearing housing. If it has been fixed with a jig you will see the head of flush allan head bolt in the hidden area. This will also be the area where most KDP damage cracks appear. If you don't see it the next step is to remove the timing case cover to see if the pin has been tabbed or peened over. Since you've come this far you might as well have tab kit from TST to fix the pin.

Far as I know TST will sell you any power kit you want even though it's not recommended.

TxDiesel007

Infidel is right on the money

But if you want an efficient fuel pressure gauge, Egauges.com, or www.dieselmanor.com, can supply you with that 0-60 psi fuel pressure.

Rick

jester0401

Thanks every one,

I looked over the web sites TxDiesel007’s, but can’t find over a 30psi (thanks infidel) fuel pressure gauge package, so I guess I am going to call one of the companies and see if I could get a custom order for gauges.

When I pickup the truck I will look over what you said infidel.

Cummins Freak

try the store on here they have a 0-100 fp gauge

DL1221

Here is one (just not a gauge package), an Isspro 60 psi fuel pressure gauge:

http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r5..._fuelpress.asp

Here's my personal favorite (also recommended by Infidel), a $10 water pressure gauge, fully mechanical, industrial design, and made in the USA, just put a label to read fuel pressure, works great:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...atname=engines

jester1542

From what I've been told the best gauges for a 12v are the EGT, boost, and tranny temp. If you get a boost gauge go for the 60psi vice the 35psi. I come pretty close to maxing out the 35psi guage I have in my truck. I have the older series of Diprcol series of gauges and have been happy with them. My daughter has the newer Diprcol Optix gauges in hers and I like the lighting much better. I have also heard good things about the Issrpro guages. Might look at http://www.genosgarage.com/

The lift pump on the trucks is pretty reliable and the injection pump is much less sensitive to low fuel pressure then the injection pump on the 24v which is the reason the fuel pressure gauge isn't as important as on the 24 valve trucks. Consider replacing the rubber fuel return and supply lines if you get an opportunity, they have a tendency to leak air without leaking fuel so you really can't see a problem but the truck may make excessive white smoke, be hard to start, and have low power.

Checking the KDP soon is a good idea and while doing that check your timing. A lot of the trucks seem to run better at 15.5 degrees especially if they have aftermarket injectors. If you need to adjust the timing, it is easier/quicker when you already have the cover off to do the KDP.

When you replace/fix the fuel cutoff solenoid problem you might want to put a Larry B solenoid saver diode in to protected it. The web site is http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

For the tie rod end(s) you might try Luke's links at http://www.lukeslink.com/ they work pretty good to fix worn tie rod ends.

The 12 valve trucks also have a tendency to wander. If you have/develop that problem, one or all of three things usually fix/reduce the problem. First, you can put a DSS (Darin Steering Stabilizer) on to support the sector shaft (the shaft from the gear box that ties to the pitman arm). Example is http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/steeringsuspension.htm Second you can replace the gear box with one from PSC. Apparently some trucks came with a steering box that allows the steering wheel to make four plus turns lock-to-lock while the replacement reduces the lock-to-lock turns to about three (haven't replaced my steering box so I personally don't know how effective the replacement is). The third change is to replace the stock trackbar by either installing a third gen trackbar mod or a Thuern. Descriptions can be found at http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/steeringsuspension.htm or http://thurenfabrication.com/trackbar.html there are also some other alternatives. I have a DSS and a 3rd gen trackbar on my 97 and it reduced the "slop" in the steering wheel from about 6" to about 1 1/2".

Sorry for the long post.

2500

GREAT TRUCK... best year CTD made!

not biased of anything

Captain

I use DiPricol gauges. I like them for there night time viewing and black face. You want a #11 fuel plate not a 10. a 10 is over 700 foot pounds i think and an all is 685 and will still slip your stock clutch. You dont really need a trans temp with a manual or a FP with a 12v but you certinally can put them in. the one truck we own has a FP the other has an air pressure gauge for the air tank. Whatever makes you happy Good luck with your new truck

infidel

Agree, I've worked on them all, '97 is the best.

Some people claim '98 is better but the newer dash sucks, doesn't let you control the A/C, fan won't shut off all the way and you need a reader to access trouble codes.

jester0401

Thanks every one for the warm welcome,
I will look over the links and see what I need when I pick up the truck.

jester1542

I had a bit of a brain dump here. Captain is correct you don't need a tranny temp gauge with a manual.

One thing I forgot to mention, you need to watch the headlight switch assembly. The 2nd Gens have a tendency to burn up the headlight switch. Summit had a plug in wiring harness which cost about half the cost of a new headlight switch but I don't know if it is still available. The other benefit of the cable harness upgrade is it usually made the headlights brighter.

floridadieselki

i to have the isspro boost, trans(aint hooked up, and getting replaced with a fp gauge),egt. IMHO 35 psi boost gauge will only last you so long, before your start wanting more and more, then the gauge will only be effective until about 1/2 throttle . with the stock turbo, i am at almost 45 psi if i dont watch the gauges when im on it hard.

displacedtexan

You might want to reconnect your wastegate, 45 is way past the efficient range that would produce usable boost, and well into the range that can destroy a HX-35. But that much boost is just hot air, and is not helping power, or EGTs.