Inner axle Seals
#1
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Inner axle Seals
How hard of a job is this??
I understand you have to remove the carrier. So I will need to pull both both axles and inner axle removing the posi lock and front along with front driveshaft and then the carrier. Is this around a 4-5 hour job or is this like a there goes the weekend kind of thing. Also is there anything else I should replace while im in there like carrier bearings???
Who makes good inner axle seals??? Any help/tips tricks would be helpful.
I understand you have to remove the carrier. So I will need to pull both both axles and inner axle removing the posi lock and front along with front driveshaft and then the carrier. Is this around a 4-5 hour job or is this like a there goes the weekend kind of thing. Also is there anything else I should replace while im in there like carrier bearings???
Who makes good inner axle seals??? Any help/tips tricks would be helpful.
#2
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First of all make sure they really need replacing. Most of the time leakage is due to the diff being overfull, factory spec is 3/4" below the bottom of the fill hole. They will most definitely leak if overfull.
Even after lowering the level it can take up to 500 miles for oil that made it past the seal and is trapped in the axle tube to finally drip out.
Also make sure the vent isn't clogged.
Seal replacement isn't fun, instructions> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm
Even after lowering the level it can take up to 500 miles for oil that made it past the seal and is trapped in the axle tube to finally drip out.
Also make sure the vent isn't clogged.
Seal replacement isn't fun, instructions> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm
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#4
Seal replacement isn't fun, instructions> http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm[/QUOTE]
After reading the instructions, they mention that you need a small pry bar to remove the carrier. I thought you needed a housing spreader. Could someone explain how the pry bar method works? Where to put it or how to use it? Much appreciated. Mine drips a puddle and I am getting tired of it. Work is slow, so I have some time, the shop wants 450.00, too much.
After reading the instructions, they mention that you need a small pry bar to remove the carrier. I thought you needed a housing spreader. Could someone explain how the pry bar method works? Where to put it or how to use it? Much appreciated. Mine drips a puddle and I am getting tired of it. Work is slow, so I have some time, the shop wants 450.00, too much.
#5
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it's not a hard job, well it wasn't on mine, I installed the entire dynatrac kit with a new detroit locker in the front in about 5hrs total and that included shimming up the new carrier. You do not need to remove the driveshaft or pinion. the carrier fits snug but you do not need a spreader just a bar to wiggle the carrier out. which side is leaking? if you have the cad axle and the passenger seal is leaking you only have to remove the pasenger side assembly to change the seal. if it is driver side you will have to dissasemble everything
#6
I thought the outer seal really was just for dirt, dust and other junk. It is the inner seal that keeps the oil in the housing from leaking, so that is the one I need to replace. Correct? If so, then doesn't the carrier need to be taken out to access it? I know that the outer seal is accessible without removing the carrier. I also have the dyantrac system, works well.
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#9
I did a gear swap on my 97 a few months ago and we did all the seals at the same time. To get the new seals installed correctly we used a very long extension and some sort of a special tool that the name of escapes me at the moment with a hammer to pound it in. It was too hard - but we had the entire axle disassembled already anyway making it a quick job.
#10
i am in the middle of fixing an axle seal leak on my 1998 dodge 2500 4wd and REALLY need some help? the drivers side is leaking. I have never had a dodge before and need some things explained. i have the whole hub and bearing off and tie rod and diff cover off. i was going to take carrier caps off but dont i need to take out pass side axle first to get to driver side seal? if i have to take it out do i just take the outside out or do i have the take vacuum pump(4 bolts) off to? and then take out axle? im so confused. got way in over my head. please help!!
can i just take carrier bolts out with pass side axle in and take the gears out and put new seal in? thats what it seems that everybody is saying? thanks
can i just take carrier bolts out with pass side axle in and take the gears out and put new seal in? thats what it seems that everybody is saying? thanks
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you will have to back the passenger side out to get the carrier out and yes you will have to take the vac off too. you should go ahead and change the pasenger side too while you are in there.
#12
Diesel Doc is correct. To access the driver side seal, the carrier has to be removed. Again, he is correct in that you should do the passenger side as well, since you have to pull the axle shaft to remove the carrier, you have already done the prep work. You mention in your sig that you have the dynatrac axle shafts, didn't you get the one piece solid passenger shaft? You will have to remove the 4 bolts of the vacuum actuator to access the passenger axle seal, it is removed and installed through that opening. If you were just doing the passenger side seal, the carrier would not have to be removed. While you are at it, go to "Madd 4 wheel drive", they have, for 50.00, a set of seals that are installed right at the outer end of the axle tubes. They really help prevent water and other crud from entering the tube in the first place. I installed them when I did mine, can't say if they work, but it seems like a good idea and good concept.
I can offer you a set of machined "seal installers" that a friend made up for me. They work awesome. I know and have read of others installing the inner passenger seal, but I had a TON of trouble getting it to go in and not bind. These installers, for the lack of a better word, make it is breeze. I can send you a differential housing spreader, but it is heavy and the cost might be high, but if you want it, I will send it. The work is not that hard, you just have to be careful. Clean EVERYTHING, especially the axle tubes.
I can offer you a set of machined "seal installers" that a friend made up for me. They work awesome. I know and have read of others installing the inner passenger seal, but I had a TON of trouble getting it to go in and not bind. These installers, for the lack of a better word, make it is breeze. I can send you a differential housing spreader, but it is heavy and the cost might be high, but if you want it, I will send it. The work is not that hard, you just have to be careful. Clean EVERYTHING, especially the axle tubes.
#13
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I had to........
Pull both hubs
Posi Lock
Carrier
Inner axle
clean out tubes (wish I would of know about outer seals)
messed up pass side seal with makeshift seal installer (threaded rod with socket and washer) had to get another and put it in the freezer to shrink it)
Pull both hubs
Posi Lock
Carrier
Inner axle
clean out tubes (wish I would of know about outer seals)
messed up pass side seal with makeshift seal installer (threaded rod with socket and washer) had to get another and put it in the freezer to shrink it)
#15
yea we finally got it. just to clarify for people who havent done it. have to do both sides. all hubs and rotors come off. then slide both axles out. remove vacuum 4 wd arm in axle and take the slider wheel out. slide axle over. then take diff cover off and caps make sure to note torque mine was about 70 for all 4 bolts. then take caps of and pry carrier out, it took 2 prybars one on top and one on bottom then u can remove seals. and put back together. what a job! i thought it was going to be easy. oh well
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