Injector Return Line Leaking
#1
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Injector Return Line Leaking
I replaced my injectors last weekend and can't seem to get the return line to quit seeping on 3 injectors. I was careful not to bend the line when I took it off. I've replaced the copper return line washers twice, once when I did the injectors and again last night. I torqued them to 72 in-lbs. and snugged them up slowly from there trying to get them to quit. Thought I had them stopped. Went for a drive at lunch and the leaks are better than yesterday but it's still wet around the injectors. I think I overtightened them the first time. Are there any tricks to getting them to stop leaking? The supply lines are tight and don't leak out of the top.
#2
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Location: London, ON
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You might try some small neoprene o-rings. I had a Perkins that leake, leaked, leaked. The rings stopped the problem.
Of course, you would do better with a new set of washers.
Of course, you would do better with a new set of washers.
#4
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Guess it's time for those rubber washers, then. i got mine at a diesel pump shop. With that Perkins, i had to carry spares with me all the time.
Hope you get it stopped.
Hope you get it stopped.
#5
Is the return the small line that links all of the injectors? I cleaned my engine today and it looks like mine is leaking on two of the injectors. I tightened them up but will not know until tomorrow if it helps. I thought it was the valve covers leaking but after cleaning everything up I can see it comes from that small line with the 10mm bolts.
Where can I get these rubber or copper washers? Dealer item?
Where can I get these rubber or copper washers? Dealer item?
#7
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I stoppped by a diesel shop and the guy there figures the injectors turned a little bit when I torqued them and aren't sitting quite square with the return line. He advised me to loosen the injectors, bolt up the return line, and then do the injectors up. I checked the first set of washers I took out and a couple look like they're compressed more on one side. Tomorrow's project.
I'm also going to check around and see if I can find some 6mm copper washers for less money than they're charging me at the diesel places. I bought 3 for $8 and change.
I'm also going to check around and see if I can find some 6mm copper washers for less money than they're charging me at the diesel places. I bought 3 for $8 and change.
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#8
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Originally posted by berner
I stoppped by a diesel shop and the guy there figures the injectors turned a little bit when I torqued them
I stoppped by a diesel shop and the guy there figures the injectors turned a little bit when I torqued them
#9
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Originally posted by infidel
That's impossible as the injectors have a locator notch that keeps them from spinning. My only suggestion on the leaks is to carefully check the bolts and injectors for and debris that may be preventing a good seal.
That's impossible as the injectors have a locator notch that keeps them from spinning. My only suggestion on the leaks is to carefully check the bolts and injectors for and debris that may be preventing a good seal.
#11
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Big improvment. I can roast the tires right through first gear. Throttle response at highway speeds is much better. I talked with Mark from Piers and he recommended I slide my plate back a bit or switch to a #10 plate for the tranny's sake. He figures I'm making about 270 HP and pushing the tranny. The 215's also got rid of the blue exhaust haze I had until the truck was warmed up completely. This is it for mods until the tranny goes. Seems to me I've heard that before.
#12
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Follow Up
I finally got them to stop leaking. I talked with the service manager at Cummins. He said sometimes they have to replace the injectors that are giving trouble. I asked about the injectors turning a tiny bit, he said yes they can but the return line can bend a bit to compensate for it. So I replaced the leaky 3. I also polished up the seating surfaces on the return line with 400 wet/dry sandpaper. No more leaks.
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ctd4stan
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
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05-18-2009 02:56 PM