owned since new, currently has 115,000, over the last 2 years, it's idle has dropped alot when cold, in winter i have to put pressure on throttle or it just dies, now warmer temps are here, if I don't let it idle for 5 minutes, it'll try to stall when letting of throttle to go from forward to reverse. truck is pure stock with a kn filter.

 

This happens alot

simply said your idle needs to be bumped up. Since you didnt specify whether or not your truck is manual or auto, I wont assume, but i will say that if it is a manual it is supposed to idle at 750 or so rpms with the ac on. If it is an auto, and in gear with ac on it must be at the same setting also. With an auto i think you might need to set ur Idle while in park to about 900 or so to get that targeted rpm range while in gear and with ur AC on.

to adjust your idle you need two 10 mm wrenches one to loosen the screw and the other to tighten down the locknut when you have it set at where it needs to be. The idle screw is behind the Injector pump and can be hard to get to if you have short or really big arms...

here is a photo to let u know what i mean... as well as some better instructions..

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adjustm...d_Gen-Idle.htm

Rick

 

thanks, spoke with a heavy diesel mechanic who works on the dodge alot in pa., he said the same thing, he also scolded me for never having the valves adjusted, also says there is a check ball, spring mechanism for the return line??, that i need to replace with this many miles,sets in the pump and is known to wear out, my problem is i live in N.H near the mass border and don't know anyone who works on these things, I'm afraid the dealer would be a waste of time and money.

 

That would be the overflow valve. Infidel has posted really good instructions on how to change it yourself, do a search under his name for overflow and you'll find it.

 

http://www.tstproducts.com/browsepro...9-Cummins.HTML

If I had to buy one today...this is definetly the one to get. Don't get one that isn't Bosch. My experience another will be VERY noisy!! Don't worry about saving $15 bucks...it won't be worth it. By the way, when you goto removing the old O/F valve, you may need to take a rat tail file to the engine block---don't worry we're talking a very small amount, maybe 1/8th of an inch---in order to clear the block to get the valve out. Would take a bout 5 minutes to do.

Tom

 

well I ordered the valve and a 230 h.p. kit while i was at it, hope it doesn't take anything away from this awsome truck, and a new sending unit for the fuel tank, so much for a weeks vacation.

 

Replacing the overflow valve is a five minute one wrench job if you don't drop the sealing washers, stuff a rag under the valve to catch a falling washer. Remove the old valve and put new one in it's place. Occasionally the notch in the manifold you see to the left of the OF valve in the picture needs to be filed or ground a little to allow the old valve to be removed. Don't bend the line to remove the valve, it will make it very difficult to line up again. New style OF valves don't always have the retainer on top that says not to remove, don't worry it's just a design change.

The object in the lower left corner is the oil fill cap.



You won't find a better price on an overflow valve than here

Precision Diesel Injection and Turbo Inc.
Marty Tompkins
888-734-7349
$35 + $7 shipping and handling.