Idles funny, revs WAY past 3K, stalls out in 1st, need HELP!
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Idles funny, revs WAY past 3K, stalls out in 1st, need HELP!
Drove from San Angelo, to Austin TX. When I got here I noticed it was driving funny.
Normally, you can side-step the clutch in 1st gear, and the truck will just crawl along. Now, it stalls.
Normally fuel starts cutting out at around 2800 RPM and limiting at 3000 RPM. Now, I tried and it revved up to 3600+ when I said "oh crap" and backed off.
Normally just sits there and idles like a kitten. Now it fluctuates greatly between say 700-1200 RPM.
Normally when I take off it just takes off, now it wants to "bounce" so to speak and it's jerky.
Any ideas what this could be? I'm going to be driving back from Austin to San Angelo tomorrow (200 miles), so I want to know if it's anything serious, what I should check before I leave, or if it's something little I can take care of when I get back home.
Thanks!
Normally, you can side-step the clutch in 1st gear, and the truck will just crawl along. Now, it stalls.
Normally fuel starts cutting out at around 2800 RPM and limiting at 3000 RPM. Now, I tried and it revved up to 3600+ when I said "oh crap" and backed off.
Normally just sits there and idles like a kitten. Now it fluctuates greatly between say 700-1200 RPM.
Normally when I take off it just takes off, now it wants to "bounce" so to speak and it's jerky.
Any ideas what this could be? I'm going to be driving back from Austin to San Angelo tomorrow (200 miles), so I want to know if it's anything serious, what I should check before I leave, or if it's something little I can take care of when I get back home.
Thanks!
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I searched on here about stalling and found a lot of posts pointing to adjusting the idle, but that's not my problem. That wouldn't allow my truck to rev to almost 4K RPM.
#4
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Always the first place to start with this type of problem is to check the fuel pressure.
And some folks say a 12 valve doesn't need a fuel pressure gauge...
Could be plugged filters or a bad overflow valve.
And some folks say a 12 valve doesn't need a fuel pressure gauge...
Could be plugged filters or a bad overflow valve.
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I'll check that stuff out. I just got into town, drove great for the last 200 miles. Died once when I got into a town and pushed in the clutch, just fell to 0 RPM.
The problem now is that when I got into town, let up off the fuel pedal, pressed it again, and it WOULDN'T press down! I went under the hood to where you can usually turn the throttle or whatever to make it rev, and that won't turn either. Is that on the side of the injector pump? I really hope it's not the IP...I can't afford that. I have a fuel pressure gauge, does this have schrader valves to check it? I know I know...I'll search.
The problem now is that when I got into town, let up off the fuel pedal, pressed it again, and it WOULDN'T press down! I went under the hood to where you can usually turn the throttle or whatever to make it rev, and that won't turn either. Is that on the side of the injector pump? I really hope it's not the IP...I can't afford that. I have a fuel pressure gauge, does this have schrader valves to check it? I know I know...I'll search.
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Overflow valve:
PDR2012050...Overflow Valve...$55.00
That's the one huh? Would that explain revving to 4K though? I'm thinking something in the governor spring area...like Forrest, what I don't know.
I'm wondering now what the heck is all bound up.
PDR2012050...Overflow Valve...$55.00
That's the one huh? Would that explain revving to 4K though? I'm thinking something in the governor spring area...like Forrest, what I don't know.
I'm wondering now what the heck is all bound up.
#7
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If the engine isn't running the pedal will be hard to push, don't force it.
The ball inside the OF valve can get a nipple worn into it that will stick in it's seat and cause very high fuel pressure. Conversely if the ball lands on the seat with the nipple aiming sideways it will not seat well causing low fuel pressure. The ball can easily rotate from one position to the other causing alternating high and low fuel pressure.
The ball inside the OF valve can get a nipple worn into it that will stick in it's seat and cause very high fuel pressure. Conversely if the ball lands on the seat with the nipple aiming sideways it will not seat well causing low fuel pressure. The ball can easily rotate from one position to the other causing alternating high and low fuel pressure.
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Naw, even WITH the engine running, I can't press the fuel pedal down. I can push it down maybe enough to get 200 RPM out of it, but I can't press down any further than that. Can the overflow valve be disassembled to visually inspect for what you described?
#9
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Some can. It will have smaller bolt on top if it can. Be careful, there is a spring that can go flying when you remove the top.
Sorry to say it but if your pedal is stuck even when the engine is running you have much bigger problems than the overflow valve. I don't see a GSK in your sig which might explain a potential problem. Think you're going to have to get the injection pump rebuilt.
First make sure the throttle cable and linkages aren't binding.
Sorry to say it but if your pedal is stuck even when the engine is running you have much bigger problems than the overflow valve. I don't see a GSK in your sig which might explain a potential problem. Think you're going to have to get the injection pump rebuilt.
First make sure the throttle cable and linkages aren't binding.
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Yeah I don't have a GSK, and it normally cuts out fuel around 2800-3K, never revs higher. Now it's revving WAY up.
Not good news. I guess I'll be walking for a while since I don't have $1400 or whatever for an IP.
I wonder why it was working just fine, took my foot off, then wouldn't press again?
Not good news. I guess I'll be walking for a while since I don't have $1400 or whatever for an IP.
I wonder why it was working just fine, took my foot off, then wouldn't press again?
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OK everything came out of the overflow valve at once.
From top to bottom (the little bolt in the top being "top"), it should go like this right?
EDIT: Changed my mind.
bolt
shim/washer
shim/washer
Spring (with SMALL end DOWN)
ball
correct?
Ball looks perfect, I assume this part is fine...then I see others say to replace it every 75K miles...I guess I will call Marty and get one. Unless a new injector pump comes with one, then it'd be a waste of money. I guess I need to find out if the IP is or isn't the problem.
From top to bottom (the little bolt in the top being "top"), it should go like this right?
EDIT: Changed my mind.
bolt
shim/washer
shim/washer
Spring (with SMALL end DOWN)
ball
correct?
Ball looks perfect, I assume this part is fine...then I see others say to replace it every 75K miles...I guess I will call Marty and get one. Unless a new injector pump comes with one, then it'd be a waste of money. I guess I need to find out if the IP is or isn't the problem.
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Well I dropped the washer on the backside of the banjo bolt, and I can't fish it out with a magnet, I guess I'm until I can get another one in my hands.
I hate this truck.
I hate this truck.
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That really wouldn't surprise me. If it's not one thing, it's another.
F-250 I'm trying to sell
88 Mustang that needs the AOD swapped over to a T-5 with a few other things
97 Formula with a brand new 383 that won't run
79 Bronco with 2.5 gallons of mud in the gas tank due to a clogged vent popping off the top of the tank
87 Mustang sitting in 4 foot high grass because I don't have the engine built yet...
...and now a freaking Dodge that needs an injector pump...the big daddy cost of them all!
F-250 I'm trying to sell
88 Mustang that needs the AOD swapped over to a T-5 with a few other things
97 Formula with a brand new 383 that won't run
79 Bronco with 2.5 gallons of mud in the gas tank due to a clogged vent popping off the top of the tank
87 Mustang sitting in 4 foot high grass because I don't have the engine built yet...
...and now a freaking Dodge that needs an injector pump...the big daddy cost of them all!