I lost speedo, tach, alt, A/C, O/D on bread winning work truck
#31
Oh no my truck is doing it to!!!!!!!!!
Royta or ??,
Did you ever resolve it? Got any ideas whare I should start?
thanks
symptoms (early diagnoses)
No tach, speedo, alternater, and don't know what else.
Problem is intermitent, comes and goes, will run even when acting up.
This is on my 1996.
thanks
Did you ever resolve it? Got any ideas whare I should start?
thanks
symptoms (early diagnoses)
No tach, speedo, alternater, and don't know what else.
Problem is intermitent, comes and goes, will run even when acting up.
This is on my 1996.
thanks
#32
This is EXACTLY what my 93 did. In fact it is what led me to this great site. None of those things will work because the ECM doesn't recognize that the engine is running.
Check the wire to the CPS where it passes through the clip at the front of the head. the added weight of the connector pulls down on the wires slightly, and vibration over time wears through the insulation. The wire will then ground to the clip and presto, no CPS signal. Mine was worn ever so slightly, and that was enough to shut down all the goodies. I threw a new battery, alternator, ECM and many $ at the problem to no avail. A simple wire repair fixed it. Then i put loom over the wires where they run through the clip to eliminate the chafing. Hope your fix could be as simple as this.
Check the wire to the CPS where it passes through the clip at the front of the head. the added weight of the connector pulls down on the wires slightly, and vibration over time wears through the insulation. The wire will then ground to the clip and presto, no CPS signal. Mine was worn ever so slightly, and that was enough to shut down all the goodies. I threw a new battery, alternator, ECM and many $ at the problem to no avail. A simple wire repair fixed it. Then i put loom over the wires where they run through the clip to eliminate the chafing. Hope your fix could be as simple as this.
#33
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE
Royta or ??,
Did you ever resolve it? Got any ideas whare I should start?
thanks
symptoms (early diagnoses)
No tach, speedo, alternater, and don't know what else.
Problem is intermitent, comes and goes, will run even when acting up.
This is on my 1996.
thanks
Did you ever resolve it? Got any ideas whare I should start?
thanks
symptoms (early diagnoses)
No tach, speedo, alternater, and don't know what else.
Problem is intermitent, comes and goes, will run even when acting up.
This is on my 1996.
thanks
I believe you should start with the ESS. Good luck.
#34
no tach or charging
i would check all connections for corrosion, or loose connector i had similar problem and found it to be corrosion at ESS connector cleaned with CLR (mild acid), then flushed both sides with contact cleaner then blew out with compressed air then sprayed both connectors with Fluid Film (marine spray lube and corrosion inhibitor) fluid film also works good for Battery terminals. also check the wires to and from ESS it is located just above crank then to connector behind top rad hose. connector has 3 wires 1- (+8v supply), 2- (sensor ground), 3-(sensor signal 5-0.3v)
#36
cps -- crank position sensor, shouldn't even be in the this thread because 12 valves don't have one
ecm-- engine control module, same deal, not used on a 12 valve
ess-- engine speed sensor, located at the lower engine pulley.
ecm-- engine control module, same deal, not used on a 12 valve
ess-- engine speed sensor, located at the lower engine pulley.
#37
ecm
what do you call the box behind air box then? i know 12v does not have pcm because of mechanical fuel pump among other things, i thought is was called ecm because all it controls was engine components ? thanks in advance.
#39
Ok thanks everyone for the replies. I am going to try the to check the ess gap (do not have brass so will use paper or something non magnetic/matallic).
Someone mentioned unplugging the ess al togethor. What would this do? I would think it would only cause the tach to not work???
thanks everyone
Someone mentioned unplugging the ess al togethor. What would this do? I would think it would only cause the tach to not work???
thanks everyone
#40
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE
Ok thanks everyone for the replies. I am going to try the to check the ess gap (do not have brass so will use paper or something non magnetic/matallic).
Someone mentioned unplugging the ess al togethor. What would this do? I would think it would only cause the tach to not work???
thanks everyone
Someone mentioned unplugging the ess al togethor. What would this do? I would think it would only cause the tach to not work???
thanks everyone
A 12 valve will run just fine without a PCM at all, just won't have the electronics and if an auto won't shift right.
A 24 valve will also run without a PCM, but remove the ECM and it isn't going anywhere.
#41
Originally Posted by infidel
It will cause the PCM to think that your engine isn't running, most of your electronic functions will not work. In fact the only electronic function that will work is the wait to start and grids.
A 12 valve will run just fine without a PCM at all, just won't have the electronics and if an auto won't shift right.
A 24 valve will also run without a PCM, but remove the ECM and it isn't going anywhere.
A 12 valve will run just fine without a PCM at all, just won't have the electronics and if an auto won't shift right.
A 24 valve will also run without a PCM, but remove the ECM and it isn't going anywhere.
thanks again
#43
Pcm<ecm
Originally Posted by infidel
It will cause the PCM to think that your engine isn't running, most of your electronic functions will not work. In fact the only electronic function that will work is the wait to start and grids.
A 12 valve will run just fine without a PCM at all, just won't have the electronics and if an auto won't shift right.
A 24 valve will also run without a PCM, but remove the ECM and it isn't going anywhere.
A 12 valve will run just fine without a PCM at all, just won't have the electronics and if an auto won't shift right.
A 24 valve will also run without a PCM, but remove the ECM and it isn't going anywhere.
#44
You really should spring the bucks and get a Dodge service manual instead of the one size fits all Haynes. All 12 valves don't need nor have an ECM.
The Dodge service manual is worth it even if it costs twice the price.
Order here> http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
The Dodge service manual is worth it even if it costs twice the price.
Order here> http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com/
#45
Okay infidel. I'll bite. What is the sensor mounted above the harmonic balancer on my '93? I call it the crankshaft sensor, I suppose it could be a cps, crank position sensor. Hair splitting? The service tech called it a crank sensor. Don't remember what the FSM called it. But it was the problem.
Any rate, when the wires leading to it chafed, it grounded and no longer sent signal to my PCM/ECM/BCM//BBBB(blackbox behind battery) hence no charge, no overdrive,no a/c etc.
Any rate, when the wires leading to it chafed, it grounded and no longer sent signal to my PCM/ECM/BCM//BBBB(blackbox behind battery) hence no charge, no overdrive,no a/c etc.