Does anyone make one for our 12 valver's?
I think it would be great to get one to replace my gauges, read engine codes, and alter power levels....
Are we not OBD II , and that is why they dont make them for us?
Any ideas?
thanks,
matt

 

Not OBDII, and not computer controlled, you can check the coded key on/off three times without starting and count the CEL flashes.

As far as more power...

To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate. I personally prefer a 100.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.

 

Hey,
thanks for the post...I had actually read it on another thread yesterday.
I'm not so much looking for more power right now...it seems to have plenty of ***** for what I'm doing.
I have gauges for egt and boost...and will be doing a tranny temp gauge soon.

I just like the thought of having all of them on a PDA type display...

Sorry for the newb question...I'm still learning this stuff. I've been reading all of the past posts this last week, trying to catch up.
Just registered for the turbo diesel registar magazine for more technical info.

I suppose there is the advantage of NOT having so much electrical wizadry going on with these as compared to the 24 valver's...makes it simpler.

 

Another quick question, as I dont want to open another thread...
Do you guys recommend buying a factory manual from Dodge?
I bought a haynes from the auto parts store, but it covers all models of gassers and such.
Should I just save the money and get along with the haynes? Or go ahead and buy a factory?
thanks,
matt

 

Definitely buy the factory manual, you can get them here:
https://techauthority.gltghosting.co...atalogId=10051
or here:
http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=17
You have a choice of CD or a real book. I do everything on my computer, so I like the CD personally. Some will tell you to take the Haynes book and deposit it in the trash, however they are good for some stuff, for example they have good instructions on how to set the timing.

 

Sorry, I misunderstood what you were wanting.
Check this out for a digital all in one display-
http://www.quadzillapower.com/products/commander.html

And a lot of us prefer the 12v because it is non electronic. More fun to wrench on.

 

I prefer the 12v because it is more reliable due to it's simplicity with less to go wrong. Probably not the most pleasant analogy, but the 6BT with a P pump is like the cockroach of diesel engines. They will survive longer than any other.

 

I agree on the reliability as well. In most cases I prefer the simpler option. I actually meant to type AND more fun to wrench on

 

Yes,
that is why I wanted a 12 valver...so many reasons they are more reliable...
They are also less picky about fuel apparently, and if there is any water contamination.
good stuff

 

thanks for the links,
I'm making my manual order and quadzilla order as we speak,
matt

 

Glad you found what you wanted. And welcome to DTR

 

Let me know how that commander works , it is meant for 24V ECM controlled trucks, i think the only things your going to be able to monitor with it are EGT for sure , and possibly boost and tranny temp ( not sure if it uses the stock map and tranny sensor for boost and temp)

The only real montior for a 12v is the X monitor , which I personally do not like the looks of...

 

Dadgumit! I got the two confused again... Is the X Monitor BD?

 

I wasn't sure , but i did a search and found this. I really wish there was more to choose from when it came to digital monitors for 12V trucks.

http://www.bd-power.com/ram/product....0Gauges&tt=ram

 

That's what I was thinking Chris has on the 95. For some reason I thought it was from Quad. I saw it on the website and just figured that he had redesigned it or something.

So I retract my previous submission, and will try to weasel in on Jamie actually finding the product I was thinking of