Hub bearing replacement??
#1
Hub bearing replacement??
Well my driverside hub is going bad and i was going to get new ones. I can pick up a new hub for around $130 from napa and i was going to do both sides even though d-side is only bad side. But then i got to searching here the other night and realized the hubs on the older d60s like the one in my 95 can be rebuilt if they're not messed up. So seeing as its xmas and money is tight i want to just rebuild them and i cant find the part # on here or bearing size. Anyone ever rebuild there hubs here? Or do alot of ya just toss out the coin for a whole new unit?
Thanks,
Garrett
1995 2500 CTD 4wd reg. cab long box
Thanks,
Garrett
1995 2500 CTD 4wd reg. cab long box
#2
Registered User
Far as I know the OEM bearing isn't availible separately, you have to replace the entire hub. $130 is a good price, so good it doesn't sound like the right part.
#3
Its the right part, its only because i get a discount since my brother is a mechanic. They're normally around 400 a piece. A while back he payed $129 for the ones on his 01 ctd they listed for around $405 iirc.
here is the thread i was talking about, I've found more information leaning towards not being able to replace the hubs so im thinking they might not be replacible
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=hub
here is the thread i was talking about, I've found more information leaning towards not being able to replace the hubs so im thinking they might not be replacible
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=hub
#4
Registered User
I've been working on these trucks for long time and believe me have tried to source out the bearing to avoid replacing the whole works. Same with the 10¢ spring that fails in the overflow valve, no luck.
Best answer I've gotten is it's a Chrysler scam with parts on many of their vehicles. They will spec lets say a bearing from Timken with the condition that they don't supply that size to anyone else. They did the same sort of thing with Castrol concerning the Syntorx manual tranny fluid our trucks require. The deal with Syntorx is that only DC and GM can sell it in containers less than a gallon.
Best answer I've gotten is it's a Chrysler scam with parts on many of their vehicles. They will spec lets say a bearing from Timken with the condition that they don't supply that size to anyone else. They did the same sort of thing with Castrol concerning the Syntorx manual tranny fluid our trucks require. The deal with Syntorx is that only DC and GM can sell it in containers less than a gallon.
#5
I see what ya mean. I ended up buying the hub and it did cost a little more than i first thought since the orig. 129$ hub ended up being a 5 lug hub since parts guys dont pay attention to what ya say. So anyways it listed for $408 at napa i still walked away with one for $173.50 which is still a good deal. Kinda ****'s me off because my bro his 01 ctd they booked for around same price and w/ his discount his cost $139 a piece and included studs. This one for my 95 ctd didn't even come with stud's..
#6
Registered User
The hubs for a '01 are different from the '95.
On your bro's truck the rotor comes off with the studs and bearing still attached to the axle. On yours the studs hold the bearing to the rotor.
Probably the reason for the price difference.
I've always reused the studs no problem, just use a copper headed hand sledge to beat them out.
On your bro's truck the rotor comes off with the studs and bearing still attached to the axle. On yours the studs hold the bearing to the rotor.
Probably the reason for the price difference.
I've always reused the studs no problem, just use a copper headed hand sledge to beat them out.
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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On these trucks, the easy way to get them out is to take the 4 nuts or bolts off (been a while since I did it), then wedge a socket (impact, heavy duty) in between the knuckle of the u-joint and the hub, and then turn the steering wheel?
I remember doing something like that last year when I replaced my rotors, since the hub is pressed into the spindle?
I remember doing something like that last year when I replaced my rotors, since the hub is pressed into the spindle?
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