Before I start let me say that I did a search for the above and looked through the first 150 posts without finding exactly how to do it. My 2003 was idiot proof, put a socket on the top and turn it off. exactly the reverse to reinstall it.

BTW, my truck is 97 12 valve.


thanks

lewis

 

This might help
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/fuel_drain.htm

 

No it didnt but thanks. Does the bottom spin off? Do I need a strap wrench to take it off? I see the water drain but unsure of the rest

lewis

 

OK, lets start:
- get a 2 or 3 foot long piece of plastic tubing at least 1/2" inside diameter. This is to slip over the little plastic tube they give you that is attached to the bottom of the fuel filter canister.
- put a coffee can on the ground and put the tube extension in it.
- on the top of the fuel filter there is a little bleeder screw (it should be a 10mm I think), loosen it up a little.
- with your finger (or thumb) turn the yellow drain lever towards the engine block. This will drain out 90+% of the fuel in the canister ... give it a few minutes. Now close the yellow lever (pull back towards you).
- Remove the big plastic tube you slipped over the little tube and put a lid on the coffee can that has about 4 or 5 oz. of diesel (save for your next camp fire ).
- Now unplug the Water in Fuel sensor connection wire from the canister.
- With a 14mm socket (I think) and a universal joint and a 10" long extension, loosen the center nut on top of the canister. Put your hand under the canister. The nut will NOT come off as it is attached to the top of the fuel filter unit so don't worry. When you have loosened the nut all the the way the canister will drop and you'll have to figure a good way to pull it out of there. I pull mine out from under the brake lines and spill a little left over diesel.
- Now pull the old filter out of the canister. You'll have to wiggle it a little to get it over the little rubber gasket at the top of the center stud.
- Clean out the canister with a paper towel or what ever and put the new filter in. Remember the big black gasket is on top. put the little remove the old little rubber gasket on top of the center stud and put the new one on (wipe it with a little left over diesel).
- Now snake the canister under the brake lines and get the stud lined up with the nut on the fuel filter cap. Hand tighten it a little, then snug it up with the ratchet.
- Reconnect the Water in Fuel sensor connection. Push it together good till it snap locks.
- Now, with the bleeder screew still loosened, reach down and pump the primer button about a million and a half time till you see some fuel burp out the bleeder screw. Tighten down the bleeder screew.
- Give everything a last look, then hop in and start her up. It will run ruff for about 10 - 20 seconds and then smooths out.

YOUR DONE.

 

I found the post. Happened to be 495 of 500 posts with fuel filter in it. go figure

lewis

Btw, if I have a ticking sound should I change the over flow valve or diagnose first? From reading 495 posts it appears that the over flow valve WILL go bad, just a matter of time.


thanks

lewis

 

FATCAT posted just ahead of me, but with more detail... I deleted my post and replace it with this

Here's a few to add to FATCAT's detailed instruction

Watch the areas that match between the canister & top as in casted index point

NEVER prefill the canister with fuel. You run the risk of getting destructive particles into the p-pump.
Re-install canister to top watching the alignment.



If you don't know the last time the overflow valve was changed, go ahead and replace it.
Check the fuel pressure if possible. A weak lift pump may tick.