Please help:
Went out this morning and truck in sig just barely turned over and then nothing like the batteries were dead (it's 80 degrees here today BTW)
I've been experiencing a slow initial cranking of the starter when cold, but then it would crank over and start - now nothing.

Notes:
- I've hooked up a battery charger/starter; no help
- The fuel shutoff solenoid does not pull up when the key is in the 'on' position; have to pull it up manually and it will then stay up (no previously problem)
- The Starter relay in the power distribution center clicks slightly when attempting to start. I've swapped the trailer relay and that was no help.
- Volt meter on the main battery cable at the starter shows 11.9 volts.
- Volt meter on the small wire (black wire that's wrapped with the main red battery cable) never shows any voltage. I've checked this while my wife turns the key to the 'start' position. Both before I discovered the fuel shutoff solenoid not pulling up and after manually pulling the solenoid up.

Please reply with thoughts.
I'm at a loss and not the sharpest tool in the happy meal when it comes to electrical stuff.

Thanks,
Steve

 

If you have no voltage on the small wire at the starter, you need to trace that circuit back and find out where you're losing it.

1st.
Double check voltage at that point and verify you have a GOOD ground.
2nd.
Power is supplied through fuse number 2, 30 amps. Check fuse number 2 for voltage on both sides of the fuse. Should be hot ALL the time.
3rd.
If both of those conditions apply, the relay is not closing the circuit. You said you switched it, so you can PROBABLY rule the relay out....so check the wiring that actuates the relay. The signal power for the relay comes from the Clutch switch. Check for power at the clutch switch, then verify continuity across the clutch switch when the pedal is fully depressed. All this should be checked with the key in the cranking position........BE CERTAIN TO BLOCK WHEELS AND BE IN NEUTRAL!!!!!!
4th.
If you don't have power there, then the ignition switch or column wiring is at fault, If you do have power, then check the ground side of the relay for a poor ground.

 

Note...Step 3 probably doesn't apply, because you said you switched relays and they both click....so the problem should be in the high power side of the relay.

You could also use a jumper wire from pin 30 to pin 87 where the relay plugs in....one should be hot, the other should go down to the starter. THIS WOULD ACTUATE THE STARTER>>>be sure it is in neutral!!!

 

My bet is a blown fuse you missed or wires pulled apart in the steering column.
Buy a $10 tester from the autoparts, the kind that you don't need to remove the fuses.
Sometimes the eyes aren't enough.

 

x2

Test them with some kind of tool....I have seen way too many fuses that people tell me are good, but have no continuity.

 

JohnX / Infidel,

Thanks, I hope to dig into it more tomorrow.
I'm sitting here with my heart in an irregular rhythm - it does this occasional.
Hopefully I can bring it back inline with the drugs I have from my Doc; If not I might have to visit the ER. Last thing I need right now....

 

**** man, stop worrying about the truck so much

Seriously though, I hope you get feeling better.

 

JohnX - ok back to work; we had a storm blow through and my heart rhythm is back to normal - getting old is a pain sometimes.

I went ahead and jumped 30 & 87 terminals and then put the volt meter on the trigger wire - this shows power at the small trigger wire now.
Does this indicate a bad starter relay? Or not?
If the relay is good does this mean it is a problem with the ignition switch, wiring in the column, clutch switch, or ?
Is this area what you're calling the high power side of the relay?
Suggestions for further diagnostics?
As you can tell I'm a novice here and about to take it to a shop if needed; just hoping to figure this out without spending the money if I can.

EDIT:
Tested again with starter relay in and the blower motor relay (right next to starter relay in panel) clicks when the key is in the start position.
Does this make any sense? I thought the starter rely was clicking yesterday as I would expect.
Going to go ahead and put the starter back again and at least start this thing by jumping posts 30 and 87 using a bump starter switch and go from there.

 

I here ya... It's weird and has happened a few times.
I have a bad habit of eating too fast and there have been times when food has gotten lodged in my esophagus it causes my heart to go into an irregular rhythm; the doctor suspects there is a nerve that runs between my heart and esophagus that triggers the event - he said he go do an autopsy to 'confirm' if I like.
That's what happened last night during dinner - everything came back in-line this morning finally.

Back to the problem:
I can at least start the truck now by 'hot wiring':
- Key in on position.
- Pull shut-off solenoid up
- Jump post 30 & 87 of the starter relay to energize the starer.

At least I can drive and I assume it is something in the cab...
***Put a tester on the clutch switch plug (truck side of plug, not clutch side) while my wife depressed the pedal. No voltage was evident on either post.
Could these be the problem?
Is there a related fuse I'm missing?
BTW: I do have a plug with the wires soldered together to use in order to bypass the switch part of the clutch shaft switch - I know that's not a problem.

Thanks,
Steve