can any help my 94 12v has a #6 tst fuel plate every thing is stock.
i have been trying to turn it up. the truck starts out good black smoke and power but as it gets neer 2000 rpm smoke turns white and starts cakaling.and power gos flat boost is about 26 or so.
it seems like it might be leening out?
could my lift pump be going out and how do you check it on a 94 12v.
any help would be grate thanks

 

i used to use a piece of clear tubing in place of the fuel line from trans pump to ip, look for air bubbles, also check the fuel heater for a fuel leak at the elec. connector

 

thanks. i changed my fuel filter last week and did find junk in it.
i will try the clear tube.

 

There are great directions here somewhere on how to make your own fuel pressure test guage and installation instructions thanks to "Infidel". I did a search to try to find it for you but the search engine is down or not working. Anyway it is really easy and cheap, less than $30.00. Worth doing because not only can you check your fuel lift pump pressure, but you can isolate the OFV or the lift pump as your culprit if low pressure is your problem.

 

Found it. Hope this helps.

Originally posted by "Infidel"
To check fuel pressure on a 12 valve:

I drill and tap the top of the injection pump banjo bolt to 1/8'' pipe
thread, then install a male x female 1/8'' needle valve with 1/8'' tubing
compression fitting in it. Boost gauge or oil pressure tubing pushed
though some 1/4'' tubing to protect against cuts and kinks to the gauge.
For a 12 valve the gauge must be at least 40 psi, 60 psi is best. The gauge can say boost, air, water, fuel or nothing on it, they will all work excellent.

Use no Teflon tape, it doesn't work
with diesel. Instead use anti-seize or Permatex #2. Remember you are
working on the clean side of the filter, keep everything spotless.
Compression fittings with a ferrule that slips over the tubing will leak
if overtightened, finger tight with one half turn of a wrench is plenty.
The ferrule should be replaced if the fitting is ever removed.

If you can tap your manifold for a pyro tapping the banjo bolt is a piece
of cake. Just drill from the inside to keep the hole straight and tap from
the outside. You can also connect to the bleed screw on top of your fuel
filter with the appropriate adapter to tubing if you don't want to tap.
The adaptor is available from TST for $25 they say it is only for temporary use though http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...PROD&ProdID=62 .

After the install start your
engine with the needle valve closed then open it slowly till someone in
the cab signals you that it's just reading pressure. If you tighten down
the packing nut under the valve handle the setting can't move. The valve
will control pulsation and buzzing and can also be shut down in the
unlikely event that you have a leak. Without a valve to restrict the flow
the gauge will pulsate so badly that you won't be able to read it in the
short time before it self destructs.

Parts list; 1/8'' needle valve - $2.50 from the hardware store, plastic
oil pressure tubing kit that comes with the compression fittings - under $10
from any auto parts store. 1/4'' tubing for protective sleeve - less than $2.
Gauge is your choice and may come with tubing. The pressure gauges I
use cost around $10 from here http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.as...keyw ord=NFGA , bringing the total cost to less than $20 and a
couple hours of your time.

From Grainger, needle valve http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...835462&ccitem=

 

well i reset my fuel platestep by step and that was it .
it pulls awsome .
thank to all for the help!