Whats a good alternative to the multi-functional relay that dodge used for the heater grid relay. I've burned out two sets since I've owned my truck (melted the post off the last one) and was looking for a solenoid setup that worked a little better. Any thoughts?

 

I use Ford starter relays. They used the same relay from '55-'96 on all vehicles which makes them very availible and cheap, about $10 at any auto parts.
Get the type with the ungrounded case or you'll have to isolate the case from ground.

 

With those, will I need to change the connection for the wires that came off the smaller posts?

Also, what configuration do the smaller gauge wires need to be in? My Haynes book doesn't label which code is which.

 

I just went onto allied electronics and ordered two 100amp continuous relays. All the connections were the same size and I just bent their tabs around the stock mounting bracket. Their website appears to have changed so I don't have the link anymore but any 100amp 12V relay will work.

 

Just some new connectors for under a buck or two total, but my question is why did the old ones burn up?

Mine are 12 years old and work fine. A short or high resistence in the heater grid? KD

 

I imagine that I shorted one out, at least with the ones I just got, the others looked stock.

 

I tryed the Ford relays with no luck. Every parts store around here had ONLY the grounded cases.
I bought a stock set up for $60 from Rockauto.com and was back to normal in 15 minutes.

 

Relays do just go bad, I had mine short out and totally drained the battery's once. The grid heater got hot enough to start burning the insulation on the wires.

 

Sounds like a common problem. One morning last November my batteries were totally dead. When I went to jump start the engine I noticed the rubber boots were totally BBQ'd. I went right to RockAuto.com and found the same exact relay. Very easy to replace.Why bother trying to use a Ford relay? May be cheaper but the stock one bolts right in there.

 

The reason that many of us switch is that a relay rated for more current will tend to last longer. I don't know what the current ratings are on the ford ones but the ones that I got from allied electronics have a much higher current rating and are likely to last longer. The issue with DC is that it is very hard to break current flow because the current can ionize the air. In higher voltage applications, contactors with magnetic blowout are required so that they have the ability to deionize the air and break the arc. In AC, because it is switching, it does it 60 times a second automatically and it is no big deal to just turn a switch off. This is why the AC current rating on a switch will be much higher than the DC one.

 

I imagine that I shorted one out, at least with the ones I just got, the others looked stock.

 

The nongrounded ones Napa gets for me are 125 amps, Motorcraft brand, $14.95 each last summer.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/ often has similar ones for $4-$5 each