Well I pulled the head today because it was running out below the thermostat housing. Everything went pretty well except for the dang exhaust manifold bolts, one was missing, I thought until I noticed its broken off flush with the head, and the one next to it broke off on me, I had barely put a wrench on it when it snapped The head is off to get decked later today and I was looking for some pointers on putting it back in. I had a few small questions:
1.)Anyone have any tips or a good article that gives the small tidbits thats often overlooked?
2.) This truck won't see another turbo besides the hx35 for awhile, so I wasn't going to waste the money on a marine gasket.....how much can be milled off and I still use a stock thickness gasket without raising the pressures too much?
3.) Head bolt tightening methods: Which to use? I have seen about 5 or more and want a little more holding power than stock, I am pushing 40 psi at WOT.
4.)On the gaskets such as the intake plate where it bolts on the head and the oil return on the turbo is it necessary or recommended to a thin bead of RTV around it?
5.) I was going to pick up a thermostat for it, are OReillys or Autozone stats ok?
6.) Fuel injectors, they look horrible and caked with soot, should I just clean em with carb cleaner and stick em back in?
7.) On the banjo bolts on say the fuel/water seperator assembly, do I need new washers or can I reuse what I have? They look fine, not worn or indented.
8.) Do I need some kind of coolant conditioner that I hear about?
9.)Whats the best way to get those broken bolts out of the head from the ex. manifold?
10) I hear the ex. manifolds crack, which I couldn't find any in mine after I bead blasted it, but is it possible for them to warp? The top of cylinder number 1 was missing a bolt and it seems that the top of that port has moved back towards cylinder 2 because it doesn't appear that it will line up with its hole.

My last question is about break in. Is there any boost numbers to stay under for say 500 miles? Do I need to retorque anything after a couple heat cycles?

Thanks for the help....just trying to fix it right the first time!

 

1 dont wire brush the injectors it will run like crap ask me how i found that out

2 i used a felpro gasket works fine i was told .008 is all you can take with a stock thickness gasket

3 i went from the center out at 125lb/ft with oil on the threads let sit over nigtht retourqued next day 75% turned

4 i never took my intake plate off but bought a new turbo drain gasket

5 mine has a napa one no problems yet been a year or so

6 yes

7 i reused mine

8 i used premixed it has distilled water instead of tap

9 a left handed drill bit is what i would use

10 i left mine on so i cant answer that one

11 i ran mine thru two heat cycles and stomped on it no retorque


just what i did you dont have to do any of it my way isnt all ways the best way but if we all did things the same it would get boring

 

I never waste my time trying to drill out broken bolts, an easy out is the worst invention on the face of the planet I've never seen one not break. The best way that I was taught in the machine shop was for removing broken bolts (Evan from below flush) is to use a mig welder and weld a nut to the top of the remaining bolt and back it out. It might take several try, heat heat the is applied while welding also helps in removing the bolt

 

Ditto on that, from a old weldor!

 

Tips I learned over the years from my father brother, school, & machine shop.
Drill out a flush broken bolt about ½ of the diameter and use a small chisel to tap it loose. If the chisel fails, try welding. The heating and cooling of the bolt will break the corrosion bond. This works really well on bolts above flush by heating with a torch and then cooling with a wet rag.

Once the bolt is out, you need to chase tap the threads in the casting. You should chase tap ALL holes in a casting especially the exhaust side and head bolts.

I don't know your definition of "caked" injectors. Take them to an injection shop and have them tested.

The head can be milled around 0.010" or you run the problem with valve & piston contact. Either a thicker gasket or recess the valves. You'll probably find the exhaust guides are wore.

You get a lot of opposing views, but a thermoprint gasket does not need any additional sealant. If the head & deck match it will seal. A retorque is always good. Go with heads studs, too. Studs are re-useable, gaskets are not.

The exhaust manifolds shrink. Either grind out the relief or get a 3 piece manifold.

Get new seals on the fuel system. They are less than $1 each. The old ones may be fine, but cheap .... is cheap

You ask questions as if already knowing your answer. Looking for a second opinion or reassurance of your decision?

 

1) not really but I learned this the hard way. (very hard way) ADJUST THE VALVE LASH BEFORE TRYING TO START THE TRUCK! I have a story behind that. Basically I got lazy and wanted my truck back....

2) I have been told any new gasket is a marine style gasket. I dont know the true answer but get a thicker one anyway, it will drop the compression half a point per .010 over thickness.

3) I used a modified Garmon method. 50, 75, 100 in cummins spec! Garmon method is that, then 5 pound increments in cummins sequence allowing 30 minutes in between torque's going up to 150 pounds. I modified that method on mine, and it holds more then it should I will explain in a bit. here is my method. 10 pound increments, every 30 minutes after first getting to 100. Doing the LONG bolts first in each sequence, going 4,3,5,2,6,1 then onto the cummins spec method. (the long bolt method i used is a Cummins improved method I found)
So it should look like this, 50, 75, 100 in cummins method, then 30 minutes later, run the long bolts 4,3,5,2,6,1 to 110 pounds, then onto the rest in the Cummins sequence obviously skipping the long bolts as they are already torqued. I took mine yo 140, as I felt the long bolts were at their limits before stretching.
This method held a major boo boo on my part. No stock replacement headgasket should be able to contain every bit of combustion with a non opening exhaust valve, and for 2 miles and 2800 RPMs! So, that method works!

4) No RTV required

5) not sure I use only Cummins parts on the engine unless its a flilter, then its fleetguard, oh wait isnt that a Cummins owned company?

6) Take the injectors to local diesel shop and have them cleaned and reset.

7) Depends on your feelings on them. I had a whole top end kit so they got replaced.

8) Need? No, not really. DCA's really arent required in a Cummins, as they arent prone to cavitation like the old Ford diesels. But it is a good idea anyway. Just be sure to use good coolant, and distilled water.

9) see above comments

10) The manifolds have a tendancy to shrink, which can make them crack. I wouldnt worry too much about it personaly, but a 3 piece manifold from ATS or who ever else is a good idea.

As far as break in, I dont think there really is any specified break in period. I kind of got on mine right outta the box. (bad temper) I wouldnt worry too much about a retorque. I believe headstuds you have to like 5 times.

*The biggest thing is to take your time, get the truck up on TDC on number 1 and loosen all the valve lash adjusters for the torquing sequence. Then run the valves once you get the head torqued.
*Make sure you know what every bolt goes to.
*Thread locker the intake plate bolts!!!! I have lost 3 now!!! Talk about agrivating
*Get some brake clean or contact cleaner, have compressed air ready and half a dozen rags or more, blow some cleaner down the headbolt holes, wrap a rag around the compressed air nozzle, and blow out the holes!! you will be amazed how much crap comes out of there that will ruin a good headgasket job!