lostcreek21

Ok so I ve searched here and couldnt find anything conclusive so I was wondering if anybody had a link to a write-up about installing 12mm head studs without taking the head off. I know I ve seen an article about it but I cant find it.

Also is there any grinding or maching that needs to be done to get these studs in?


And I guess I better ask what studs you guys recommend. BTW they're going into a 96 12v and I plan on getting around 400-450hp out of it.

Tate

ARP's require the rocker pedestals to be machined, I think with the A-1 studs you need to clearance the webbing in the valve covers.

To install, remove bolt, tap the hole if you like (reccomended, but you will need a long tap to get in there), oil the block threads, install to bottom, back it up about a half turn, use appropriate lube on stud, bring to torque. I know with the ARP's, you are supposed to cycle the studs before leaving them. Bring them to full torque, back them off, torque, back off, and then final torque. Not sure if A-1's are the same.

JD730

Yes, A-1's instructions say that the webbing may have to be ground out depending on the valve cover.

I have a set of each and I found it easier to knock the webbing out of the valve cover on the milling machine than to mill the pedestals, its some tough powdered metal.

moss765

dont coat your bolts in oil jus put a real fine fine layer of oil on them...if u get to much on them you wont get the proper torque on them

moss765

and personally i wouldnt put studs in until u blow ur head...jus torque down ones u got now and when/if u blow ur head get studs and better head gasket..jus my 2 cents tho

lostcreek21

I d really like to get studs in there but have people had success tightening the stock headbolts down?

And what do i need to torque the stock head bolts down to keep that head gasket a little longer?

moss765

here i got this from another forum so i hope they dont care that i post it here lol but i forget the name of the truck but it was a big name puller that was still on there stock head gasket for a while before they blew it...i would jus torque it and/or check the torque before u go out and pull or whatever ur gonna do with it..jus my opinion tho

Torque the head to Cummins spec
Step1- all bolts to 66 ft.lbs.
Step2- recheck all bolts.
Step3- all bolts to 89 ft.lbs.
Step4- recheck all bolts.
Step5- rotate all bolts an additional 90degrees-(bolts) if using Studs torque to-125 ft.lbs.
Check valve clearance when done.
Bring engine up to operating temperature(without driving!)
Let engine cool down to about 95degrees to begin Line Torque Procedure.

To line torque head:
Make a mark with a magic marker, so you have a reference point on top of the bolthead or nut(studs).
Then start at the front(pass. side of head) bolt/stud-nut, loosen it up, then re-torque it to 125 ft.lbs.(studs) 90ft.lbs.(bolts.)
Proceed down that line of bolt/studs, doing same thing, one at a time.

*NOTE*
If you notice more than 1/8th inch rotation of the bolt while doing last step, then you may have a bolt that has 'stretched'
You need to pull that one out and measure it with a Cummins Bolt Guide, or Bolt Stretch Indicator.

Do not forget to re-check valve clearances once procedure is done.
Intake : .010"
Exhaust : .020"


Drive truck for the next week but keep the boost psi under 30psi during this time. (crucial)
By doing this,the different heat cycles will get the head to 'settle' better.

After a weeks time has passed, do the Line Torque Procedure again. Same exact way you did the first time. Drive it again for a week. And you can get into the pedal a little bit more but don't go maxing it out just yet.

After a weeks time has passed again the head should have settled by now and you can do the last line torque procedure and you should be good to drive it HARD. (as long as you don't see any movement from your marks.)

Tate

This works fine for bolts. On the studs, the threads on the bottom have a different pitch than they do on the top threads, so if the stud turns at all, the position of the nut will change, even if the stretch on the stud and the position of the head hasn't.