Well My new truck has turned out to be a big flop. I just got back from re-torquing the head bolt and it didnt fix my leak. I drove it maybe 1/4 mile and let it set for about 5 min. then shut it down and slowly opened the radiator and it leaked a bit of air. Just for an easy question does the radiator get pressureized if there isnt a leak? I called donw to scheids diesel and they said I need to Fire ring the head, but i dont build that much boost ( maybe 45-50 max). They priced me $1k when everything is said and done. I dont want to throw money at this truck right now, I have only had it for 48 hours and put 100 miles on it. I asked about the Marine gasket and they said that would run $106 for the gasket and then $700 in labor( because they will want to resurface the head and adjust the valves). I just paid a bunch for this truck and now its wont even get out of my road. Any sugestions on what I can do, or anyone know a place that will fix this for cheaper?

 

It sounds like the HG is toast..... That being the case you are on the right track installing the marine HG. You can get one direct from cummins for a little less the # is 3283339 for the .020 over gasket, if you want the standard thickness it's # 3283335 and the .010 over 3283337.

$700 in labor is not a bad price and resurfacing the head should be done...... I would recommend going ahead and installing o-rings, this would ensure that you have a reliable setup. Also remember that boost pressure isn't what blows HG's its cylinder pressure, there are many variables, boost, backpressure, timing, fueling etc.

Doug

 

I think the gasket was just installed wrong by the PO and copper is know to leak. My plan is to get the marine gasket and then put in the 12mm studs ( the ones you dont have to drill and tap the block). That should hold way more pressure than my turbo can put out. Hopefuly this will hold and work well, seeing my truck is a daily driver.

 

Be sure and tap the block holes with a bottuming tap to ensure full stud placement. The tap is a 12 X 1.75. Use lots of moly lube (I like the ARP stuff) on the top threads, washers, and nuts. Then torque them to 125# (if using the ARP studs).

Doug

 

I am probably going to have Scheids do it for me to get everything right, then have a warenty on top of that.

FYI just looked at my radiator cap and it says 16 psi, and when I ran the truck it only ggot to 140 degrees maybe less.

 

The cooling sys does build pressure thats why the coolent will not boil below 250 or higher deg.

 

So I now know I have to replace hte gasket so I now have the tough choice of choosing which one to replace it with. The one I have now is a copper gasket, crap so if your not pulling in truck pulls dont bother. Well I read somewere that i can have my copper gasket (which has only 3000 miles on it used again. It said that I can get o-rings and use the gasket again and it will hold up to 75 lbs. of boost.

My other choice would be to use the Marine gasket and studs to hold over 50lbs. This will cost me about 200 less that getting o-rings.

Or I can just put in a Marine gasket but I dont know how much boost that will hold. Any ideas?

I make no more than 50 lbs. but the engine is too new to test out the hx-40 hybrid so I have no idea how much I can make and want to put in a gasket that will hold. Any suggestions would be nice!
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The problem with blowing HG's is that its not boost pressure that blows them its cylinder pressure. Hence the reason on the 12v folks blow the HG when changing the timing yet fueling and boost is the same.

Normally the marine HG and studs will hold @50 psi boost but sometimes not. The o-rings will hold a lot more! Prior to studs coming on the market I had a truck that was over 750 RWHP using o-rings and the OEM bolts. If its studs or o-rings go for the o-rings it will ne more reliable. Then you can always add the studs later by just replacing them one for one.... This save $$ now plus makes your truck reliable. Personally I don't like the copper as getting it to seal well when the engine is cold is difficult. I much prefer a marine HG with o-rings.

Now as for your new turbo, keep the boost down below 40 psi. Most guys try and push too much boost.... An HX35 will make the most HP and lowest egts around 28-30, and HX40 around 38-40. Heck running a big steroid b-1 I only run 45 psi boost and the truck makes 600 HP. The problem with running high boost is the heated aircharge + increased backpressure which increases cylinder pressure and heat! By setting the wastegate correct your truck will run better. cooler, and be more reliable.

If I can answer any question please feel free to phone.

Doug Smith
717-557-7060