stock600

I never got an answer to this queation before. Ive since removed the pump and the cast heater assembly and reinstalled the pump. it looks fine i just question the plunger distance now since the cast heater added prob. 1/4" to the assembly. Wondering if anyone else has done this. If i decide to go pure electric pump later , ive read 15-20 idle and 30+ WOT - but if i find a pump to do say 30-40 all the time is there any scare of to much idle press. and causing leaks in the p-pump? I really want to stay mechanical for simplicity. But i like the look much better w/ the unneeded heater inplace, and it now gives me a 1/2" rather than 3/8" hook up.

Need95-00CTD

I know you can over-pressurize the p-pumps the same way you can with a VP, so be careful. As far as how much pressure it takes, and if its safe to run without the pre-heater? I can't answer that for you honestly. If it were me, I'd put it back on, just for the peace of mind.

kawi600

as part of my veggie conversion I got rid of the fuel strainer assembly and put the filter on the suction side so I could select a fuel source. I just disconnected the power and capped the lines.
I havent had any problems with straight #2, but if I put biodiesel in the main tank and its cold out the filter clogs.
In my case I also got rid of the stock filter and put a racor R490 under the bed near the tank. You can get the racor WIF kit and their bowl heater kit but theyre expensive. I just ordered some nichrome wire to make a 200W filter heater with. Ideally this should be done with a coolant-heated filter so the electricity isnt needed after warm-up. I have a racor vormax under there too which is coolant heated. Wish I had bought two of them =(

stock600

Im now thinking of machining off the little plate part of the heater and reinstalling it behind the pump to put my spacing back as stock depth. As it is the plunger that rides on the cam lobe has an extra 1/4" or so of pre load, not sure if this is a issue or not, if it doesnt bottom out it might would create more pressure? Barring the engine over seemed to show no sign of the pump bottoming out though. Any thought....

bob95065

When I got my truck it was neglected for years so I started replacing parts. I decided to get into the prefilter which was clogged with a waxy substance. I decided to change the heater gasket too. Big mistake. When I took it off it must have warped because it wouldn't seal no matter what I did. I removed it completely and zip tied a heavy thickness plastic bag on the connector.

I live in a very temperate climate so it isn't a problem. I had it up in Lake Tahoe in January and it started and ran without a problem.

stock600

So you run with out the bottom lid on your heater? Why not just do get a new gasket. Im not worryed about starting in cold temps. Its a race project when its cold it will be put up the the shop. Just wanting to delete items not needed, and ive now done that but wondering about the 1/4" pre load now on the pump plunger. Just wondering if others have done this, if someone said they tried and the pump failed i will simply machine off and reuse the heater flange for the clearance.

bob95065

The heater bolts to the filter housing with a special bolt. If you remove the heater and bolt you can put the bottom of the filter housing back on and run without the heater.

When I removed the heater it warped. I used a brand new gasket and nothing I could do would make it seal.

I have a friend that has a 96 2500. He disconnected the heater connector when he changed out his fuel filter and forgot to reconnect it. He didn't figure this out until he changed the filter again. If he hadn't seen the dangling connector he would have never known by the way the truck ran.

I had my truck up in the snow in Lake Tahoe and she started and ran no problem. It was just below freezing. I don't know if the heater makes a difference at lower temps.

GAmes

I think that is a good plan. That way the plunger travel would be the same as designed.

stock600

Done deal. Machined off the flange and reinstalled. Looks factory, heck its even the same gasket on each side of the pump and the flange. Cleaned up some space looks good and now i have a true 1/2" inlet to the pump. Thanks guys, sometimes you just have to fiqure these things out as you go.

ajs1995

i have my fuel heater unplugged and my truck runs fine and my friend put in a hollie fuel pump on the frame and the truck ran ten times better didnt sound like it was running out of fuel anymore

stock600

Did he add the holley inline with the factory mech. pump or by itself? The holleys only make 13-15 psi.

ajs1995

he just added it in line the factory mech pump went out

stock600

Sure would be the cheapest and easiest think to do but , would sure wonder what the engine would run like on only 14psi rather than 30ish? I fiqure the holleys would produce way more than enough volume but only around half the needed pressure.

ajs1995

i dunno but it woke the truck up you kno how when u floor a truck some times they will sputter or have a poppin sound well it stopped doin that when he added it

Need95-00CTD

It shouldn't do that at all, sounds like you need to check your prefilter screens and filters, it shouldn't sputter. My lift pump caused the same problem, now its fine since I replaced it... No more hard starts either.